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You're extremely lucky he/you got that far. Mitsubishi in my town won't look at anything that isn't sold in Aus. Any Import eg Delicas, Evos, VR4s etc. Everyone ends up ringing a few of the Perth places.

OK, well that's the SSG up there for the turbo manual. I'm actually having trouble finding the ecu plug, seems to be no diagram for it. i'll keep looking though

SSG OR HSG ? SSG Manual ECU = MD312467 SSG Auto ECU = MD312467 HSG Auto ECU = MD337749 If you can PM me the VIN ( N23W-*******) i can specifically find it for you.

Hmmm, looking at that subframe you've got up there, it's definitely not looking good. Reason why I want to get the camber out is the tops of my wheels are sitting so far in it's rubbing on the plastic covers for the for the strut stanchions. If i can dial it out it won't rub, I've got 3mm...

I'll take some advice on that, i'll check it out. Thanks.

I'll keep looking, maybe they do a camber correction kit like the commodores. Qualified wheel aligner and fitter for 7 years. Just having trouble finding certain things for it.

OK, been thinking about this abit over the last few days, how on earth can i pull out some rear camber ? I've got a mean rear stance going on, but i want to get it closer to -1degree instead of the -2 and a bit i've got atm, and it's going to start chewing edges bad. Being a trailing axle...

It's a turbotech bleed valve. Runs a spring and ball bearing, and works opposite to normal controllers, I can't remember which way to screw in or out.

Hahaha ! Dude could just not get it out what it is. Well done on your times too, bit quicker reaction is needed, but you'll get there for sure !

If anyone wants a part # for the pod filter adaptor for Mitsubishi AFM SAAS do one, # SFA1.

So, just trying to see what people are running etc. Currently I'm trying this setup out, small pod inside a ally box that collects all the cold air from the factory snorkel. Feels improvement from low down, plus gives the better sound, but it's still pretty quiet. If it still feels better...

Trimmed my first time cause mine where rubbing on the factory struts. Also bunged on 3mm spacers on the rear too. Pushed the wheels out a further and less chance on rubbing on shit.

Yeah a heap stiffer. I think with better tyres would be a heap better grip, but with them now it doesn't boat like it used to, and it now when it comes up on boost or any rev range doesn't try to pick the front wheels up off the ground due to no oil in the shocks lol. Definitely happy for $150 !

Rears are in. quick drop on the ground. and then after a spin around the block. next is drop the bullbar off, and cut the support brackets.

Anyone find someone who stocks any of the radiator hoses ? I tried a couple of shops with the CH3856 and CH3866 combo and they all said they're hrd to get hold of, I need to change mine out before the next track day cause I don't think they'll go through another. Thanks Pete.

i'd say he's trying to fit a skyline/supra rim on which is 58mm bore.

67mm. Mainly Falcon rims fit.

Any Drivers side seatbelts man ?

No you don't need the rear evo springs, you use your stock rvr spring, as the damping and compression rate of the shock is a lot stiffer then the factory rvr shock. Cut the rear spring perch off the Evo 9 struts. Cut the Eyelet off the bottom of the RVR strut and weld onto the bottom of the evo...

Got the missus picking me up a set of Evo 9 gear today after doing a little bit of reading. Going to use the 9 gear in the rear, and keep the 7 struts up front for now, might change them out later on. Considering making some strut braces, i'll make up the top template on cardboard and get it...