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It's not really necessary if he's just got the one mount off, the other two will hold it fine, however... take the bolts out of the front and rear engine mounts (with a jack under the sump, as mentioned above) then jack the engine up as high as it'll go before the crank pulley hits the chassis...

You all fail. The top of the shaft has 2 flats on it, so you can get a small spanner (or vice grips) onto it.

projectors come on with the spot light switch, if you have the headlights on, and switch to high beam, they go off and the other spotlights come on.

I rekon sell it. mine had 16G walbro 3" exhaust datalogger 17psi and made 171kW @ wheels (same as a stock evoX) *edit* j-spec, with stock fmic/piping just add injectors/maf/boost/tune (a chip will do fine) and it'll be over 200kW easy - if you can't understand that, you really should sell it...

Not a gsr, but you could try something like this (if you don't have a/c)

The transfer case output shaft is just below and is equally likely to be the problem. Often the ball bearing that holds the shaft in place (viscous unit holds it in place) is missing (even with an apparently un-opened gearbox), this allows the shaft to slide across towards the transfer case...

You'll probably find only american spec cars have two o2 sensors. Whats the output from the rear sensor doing?

There's 2 ways, both are on www.vfaq.com (with pictures) option a) shift the box into reverse, then push out the pin that holds the 5th gear shift fork, and slide the fork up so 5th gear is engaged as well. option b) put a copper coin between the 2 cogs of 5th gear (it's hard enough to stop...

Also, it's ball bearing turbo's that need restrictors in the oil feed line, not plain bearing.

Not sure if you mean me or not - mines not an RS, but was rwd for a couple of years. There are a number of other rwd vr4's and evo's here though. In my experience axles tend to break before diffs. Everyone who drifts nissans breaks stuff though... With my 170kW there's the same power going...

Fark that's expensive! Welded centre diff is a much cheaper option.

Don't have to admit anything of the sort, certainly from an engineering point of view it's not "ideal", but very little to do with production cars IS. Given that once you have a locked centre diff it takes 30 minutes and costs NOTHING to do... and for that matter, 30 minutes and the cost of a...

He said he's got a razza chip in the stock ecu. razza will be able to write a new chip to suit the bigger injectors i'd suggest a datalogger, then turn the boost up whilst keeping an eye on the knock count. that setup will make 300hp @ wheels easy. If you want abit more a set of 264 or 272...

As above, they're probably no better than a stock cast one, the wastegate pipe needs to merge smoothly into the exhaust to disrupt the flow as little as possible. The further after the turbo it merges the better also!

If you only want 300hp there's really no point in changing to a bigger turbo. A turbo back 3" exhaust, 2.5" intercooler piping (if you haven't got it already) and 20-23psi boost will see you right. Should be good for 220-230kW @ wheels

17x9+30 will fit under stock rear guards. you'll need at least 10's with close to 0 offset to fill the rear guards. Save up your pennies and get some 18x10 and 18x12's off an old vip car from ebay.

Put them in, get it tuned, drive it. oh and maybe post up a before and after dyno sheet too.

better off with a welded centre diff than a vc eliminator. the weak link in the box is the spider gears in the centre diff. With a welded centre diff and a steel transfer case (evo's have them, vr4's have alloy t'cases, not sure what gsr's got) the only thing you'll break are rear axles. Once...

you guys don't have anything we want over there anyway :P

QFT perhaps someones confused by all the gsr's with 4G63's and evo kits getting around the place.