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That and "...I like my car to be low" wtf? that's not low, you can see daylight under it ffs!

You need to have all the marks lined up correctly AND the balance shaft's in phase.

4G61's don't have balance shafts (it's the 4G61 stub shaft for the oil pump that is included in bs elimination 'kits').

Don't re-paint them. At least half the awesomeness is in the patina! Pretty sure the gravel spec works evo 4-5-6 were 4-stud too.

They never ALL line up, because the 2 marks on each pulley aren't exactly 180º apart, but the 2 closest to each other should line up exactly.

It won't sound that loud from inside the car if it's vented underneath, but from outside the car you'll be able to hear it several blocks away. Not good.

Would anybody be interested in a Drawing of their car? $100 aus incl postage for an original drawing on good quality A4 paper, unframed.

fixed.

Allrighty, got my shit together now so if anyone is still interested drop me an e-mail at [email protected] and I'll get drawing! I'm thinking $100 ozzie dollars including postage for an A4 size pic, unframed.

18x9 +30's

Our gearboxes are constant mesh, the gear surfaces are always mating (with allowances for end float depending on the preload the box was assembled with).

The mesh mitsubishi used isn't the usual 'expanded' crap, it's actually made from separate wires rather than a flat sheet. It's still available from Mitsi (I guess an aussie dealer would be able to get it for you if you gave them the part numbers?) but it's bloody expensive! It looks a zillion...

Eterna's (anything with the liftback rear end, no matter what it's called infact) have a lower roof height than the sedans, the screen is different, as are all 4 doors and door glass.

MLS gasket is a waste of money on a 93 with stock internals. A plain ordinary head gasket off the shelf at Super Cheap will cope with more than stock 93 internals (read, rods) will.

I disagree, sort of, 3G lifters will fix the problem, but cleaning all the original ones will also fix it, and is much cheaper. Mines done 30k+ km's since I cleaned them and it still 100% tick free.

Better to clean the existing ones than replace them with some random others. Soak them in diesel overnight, bleed them with a paperclip and they will be good as new.

Cheapest option would surely be to get whatever fittings you require welded onto a stock fuel rail?

Nah the ECI multi ones are cyclone too (confusingly)

Your boost is spiking to 16psi then dropping off to 13ish - that's why it feels like it just dies up top. Get it to hold 16psi consistently and it will feel much much better. What sort of boost controller are you using?

evo 2 and 3 cams are the same as vr4 cams. evo 1 is marginally less aggressive. stock they make peak power at 6500rpm Got a dyno graph you could post up?