Search results

You're mostly right, but D2's etc don't come with keeper springs because the ride height isn't adjusted with the spring seat, thus (when set correctly) the spring doesn't come loose when the suspension droops. I wouldn't buy D2's, but I wouldn't buy superstreets either. I've actually got a set...

No it doesn't. It seems like alot of people, you fail to understand what the balance shaft does. Balance shafts are most common in inline four cylinder engines which, due to the asymmetry of their design, have an inherent second order vibration (vibrating at twice the engine RPM) which...

If you're going to just throw them away I'll have them. :) Call the Aussie Tein distributor and see how much for a set of 8kg and 6kg springs, plus re-valving the shocks to suit the new spring rates.

You can measure exhaust pressure with a couple of spare boost gauges and some copper tube - though you'll need to weld a fitting on before and after the turbo obviously.

Yes and no. In a "normal" application the stub shaft is fine. The issue comes when the rev limit is raised dramatically - big horse power engines turning 9-10,000rpm + Basically anything you intend to be streetable probably won't have a problem with the 4G61 stub shaft.

What are stock Mitsubishi rings made of? I could still see hone marks when I had the head off my 180,000km motor. Totally agree about running it in asap though.

What logger are you using? I've found mmcd won't sample fast enough to pick up whether it's fuel or ignition being cut for the rev limiter. fwiw at night you can sometimes get a flame from the exhaust whilst bouncing off the rev limiter with stock ecu which makes me suspect it is an ignition...

+2 I've taken a few out myself and only managed to not break one of them - you need to remove the dash to get the the bottom of the screen which is a pita, and after spending aaaages slowly cutting the urethane you're almost certain to crack the screen when it comes to the last bit (unless your...

It's not the axle shaft that breaks but the splines on the inner CV cup where it goes into the diff. You can't just soften the metal is it will then just twist the splines off (this is why you can't just cut new splines onto a shortened shaft). New 4-bolt axles from Mitsubishi are ~$1300+gst...

Err, thanks I think. I raised it up quite a bit as I was concerned how close the steering tie rod was to the chassis, it'll stay at this height until I get around to making some parts to correct the roll centre by spacing the ball joint and tie rod end down (and some narrower tyres) I've done...

Try www.vfaq.com best how to site there is.

You can save a few minutes by not draining the oil from the transfer case - leave the driveshaft in the case and place the t-case on a block of wood,etc under the car, if the oil's been changed recently you don't really need to do it again.

I haven't used one, but a quick check with a tape measure should give you some idea of whether it's going to work or not - nice of them to include a handy diagram with measurements for just this purpose.

I've read the same thing over and over for years, there's a whole lot of people who don't really know what they are talking about. eg: if the car is low, and it breaks an axle it must be because it is lower than another car which didn't break an axle. 3-bolt axles are prone to breaking the...

D3bb4: Here's a couple of full car shots - just mocked up with a jack under the arm at the rear - waiting for new bushes for the lower shock mount, found some nolathane ones from something else that should fit - front is at full droop! but it will be adjusted to about this height until I get...

Finally got my rear hubs back on Friday, new rear wheels clear the trailing arm by about a fingers width, and just tuck under the rear arches. There's only 2 spots where the tire is actually hitting the bodywork, Will require a wee bit of hammering here. And a slight bit of trimming...

Try using a higher ratio of Coolant to water in the radiator, this along with a 1.3bar radiator cap (stock is 1.1) will raise the boiling point of the coolant slightly which may be enough to make the difference. If not you will need to fit an aftermarket (thicker and/or dual pass) radiator...

To be honest if it was me and he cbf packaging them I'd tell him I cbf buying them and to go fornicate with himself.

It's probably a broken centre diff - when the bits fall in just the right way they can lock up pretty solidly. Centre diff failure was likely caused by mis-matched ratio's.

Not to mention the non-assisted racks are about 1284763848483873 turns lock to lock.