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i work in electrical retail selling mainly high end home etertainment equiptment, plasma/lcd tv's etc, & i did install them as well but i got the shits with it & closed my little side business down. in january im going into the RAAF as an communications electronics technition for 6 years...

nothing to worry about.... any problem that only lasts for a split second is not worth your hassel, maybe a sticky relay sending an ignition signal to the starter for a fraction longer than it needs to ? if it keeps cranking for say 2 or 3 secs after you release the key then its time...

i say drill it out, 10 mins is all i give any bolt or screw, 2 mins is more than enough for any screw/bolt/nut thats goig to come off properly, then spray with inox or wd40, leave for 5 mins, have another crack at it, if still no joy.... out with the drill, & drill the c*nt out...

iv got a stock vr4 bov...

penrite semi synthetic, im not keen to run syn in an 18yr old car ... just me io suppose, but its never missed a beat on the oil i use

yeah changed em twice, im not sure beyond screwing them in that there are too many variations in the way plugs are installed.. leads are magnecors 8.8mm are map sensors accurate at low pressure levels?

anyone?

my vr4 has a haltek e6x, when the car is ideling, & driving under 2000rpm, it misfires. this itself doesnt bother me, but when im attempting to drive in heavy traffic on de-acceleration, this ' misfire' causes the car to surge, & sometimes gets that bad that i have to pull the car out...

i think mine gets maybe 20psi on idle & 110 - 115psi when under high load

i think it ups the octane a little bit, im more conserned about ethanols lack of lubricating properties.. but 10% might not be too bad.. if the gov droped their excise by 10% tho that would make a reasonable imact at the bowser

bingo ;)

it would be a whole lot of fabricating for very little gain... & no doubt a crapload of problems! look at the half radiator that thing has... i bet all that extra heat generated by a second source of insain heat will assist the halved cooling capacity in warping the head.. sorry for being so...

5k always 5k

i was under the impression the hotbits wouldint go low.... its a little hard to tell from that pic but how much guard to tyre gar was there ? on 15's, mines got maybe an inch & half atm, & id like it around half an inch over the tyre, the rear of mine is more that low enough... & stiff enough!

how many k's does it have? carbies do need to be serviced, most mechanics either dont know how to, or simply dont care about doing it.. the cars 11 yrs old now, imagen how dirty you would be after 11 yrs without a shower!! any 1st yr apprentace mechanic can diagnose a dieing motor...

yeah if i cant get any joy from koni ( or kingsprings whom i purchased the shocks from) i will be taking it up with the local council, as it WAS their bump which compromised the safety of my vehical ;) the kyb's iv got back into the rear are a better shock than the konis handeling wise...

just remove the pump!! its not like ur gonna put it back on are ya? :wink: thats the problem with jap cars, u need to undo 10 bolts to get to one!

the dodgy zip tie that was holding it on came clear off & the line was just dangelling there, if it was bolted on like it should be it would have been severed for sure! & qld transport say zip tied break lines are danderous!

id like to see how the gov allocates the 30 odd percent excise they place on petrol, which they then charge gst on.

the other day i went for a strap through the hills behind the gold coast, was all good, just as i was coming back into civilisation i came to a very mild bump in the road, front went over fine, then BANG!!! it sounded like something had broken, but the car was still driving fine, just...