Search results

Cams are too big. Someone should be able to hook you up with a haltech tune from an Evo for run in. Dont let it idle at all on fresh rings, after a 15min drive it will be sweet to idle. You don't need to break in cams like you would on a solid lifter v8, just do the normal engine run in.

Any links to the one you run DOUGMO? Is the later evo 9 wheel pattern the same as the early ones? They look similar with the air bag removed. Getting in and out of the 9 im doing atm is a 5min chin up work out , such a pain in the ass.

The compound turbo van. It started pushing coolant at powerplay so after it gets some L19's and an auto its going to take 40+.

If you are using am after market ecu you cant beat LS1 coils for $ value. Im running 36psi through a second hand 50$ set of LS1 coils with a .9 plug gap from memory.

I wouldnt bother unless 500whp+ or 2.3/2.4L. I run Arps in my 7 bolt van block ( no crank girdle like evo, all caps individual) and didnt line bore but did measure each one to see if it was out of round and they were all close enough.

Save the money on the ECU and AFM and get an safc2 and injectors. More timing and less fuel wakes them up and cost fuck all.

Its not like you are swapping a to4z in place of a td04, its not a huge turbo. You don't even need a good tuner. The best thing I did to mine was a tdo5 16g, evo injectors and a safc2. Pulled some fuel out on the road and ran mid 12s @110mph. Not laggy at all. I would love to try a twin scroll...

Yeah you're right about over running fuel reg but unless you are on a STD ECU or shit injectors its not a problem. Iv just done Id2000's onto an Evo 9 with STD reg and DW300 pump with a vipec and have no problems. Back in the day when we ran walbros or o44's with STD ECU we use to drill a tiny...

I'm using factory Evo and always have in the past, why would you want an aftermarket shitter. Have run factory one to 40psi of boost on top of the 43psi of rail pressure no worries.

Even without knowing comp ratio and cams??

Wet test on these are not accurate, the oil pools on the piston on your reading goes up regardless, unless you have a way to keep it out of the piston dish... My 9.0:1 measures up around 196.

Ditch the spare holder and flat plate it, just need to blend it into the front part that steps down. Bumper still stays put at 280kph.

I wouldn't flush anything, too easy to contaminate.

Even Link would like to leave pre G3 links forgotten in the past. They are shit, that is soo expensive for one to. You could get a brand new link G4 Atom for not much more and would have a top notch ecu. I dont think you will get a better value for $$ EUC than a G4, they were doing extremes for...

Most jap stuff is the same, I used a subaru one.

I would guess there wont be much more room with it still in place.

Are you going to piss off the water to oil cooler too?

suck on the hose to the top, it should hold vacume.

All good just don't go round saying Teflon hoses are a must. They are OK for e10 but questionable for e85. What you want is SAEJ30R9 which is what all the fuel flex cars are running from factory, same price as normal efi hose just harder to find. I use the dayco stuff. Steel fuel lines are fine...

Bull shit. I've done 5 now and run steel lines and normal off the shelf ethanol safe fuel hose. All the fuel flex factory cars run it no problems too.