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Yeah there isn't much wrong with the RS type 12 plate mech diff, especially for street duties. It can be preloaded nice and tight but isn't too aggressive for the street. The ultimate has to be Ralliart Super Traction (20 plate) but at $4k it's not really viable... If you can get a Kaaz diff...

What Mike said!!!

All sorted :)

Hi all, Don't suppose anyone has a set of Evo1-3 (7 bolt) plastic timing belt covers lying around? Hoping to someone in Oz has some second hand before I have to buy new. Cheers Lewis

$6600 + GST just for the gearset (1st - 4th) (ie no case, front diff, selector shafts, selector fork for 1/2 and 5th, c/diff top hat etc etc etc)

because its designed as a gravel rally car ;) The front has more suspension travel, and as a result the guards are larger. If you were to adjust the ride height to drop the front down more that would start to play with the dynamics and not in a good way. You would be essentially be raising the...

there are gravel rally Evo 3's that run with Nissan 300zx turbo 4 spots, which are not that different to the R32 brakes. They fit under 15" wheels, hence the reason to go down that path. But if rim size doesnt matter there are probbaly easier bolt on soulitions as per above

Yeah sorry, from looking at my old viscous, looks like the crownwheel is the same for both mech and visc

AFIK, the diff centres are the same from VR4 to Evo X (from 4-10 RS diff's). Clearly the design was right to start with :)

heheh yep thats exactly what i meant :)

i assume your talking about rear... 1. Yes, strip the diff, unbolt the centre fromthe crown wheel and swap. 2. no, you need RS shafts, but they are just the same as the standard GSR open diff shafts 3. ratios stay the same, your not touching the CW&P, just swapping over the centres 4...

Congratulations George... Hope it was an epic day (I'm sure it would have been!!)

when you say never been fitted, im guessing this is just the gearset, and c/diff housing (or center spool)?

It still has the skeleton frame underneath, but alot of its been cut away. it still has the center and side mounts attached, but most of the strength comes from it being cable tied to the cage either side. Its pretty flexible now, which is good as it needed to be to get in past the 'Saintz' bars...

I just took some pics under the dash, notthe best, but I think you get the idea... (I hope)

Just loop the existing, they are plent long enough. The pics are not on my photobucket, so will have to have a look on the old hard drive at home. I only just put the dash back in a few weeks ago :( Other option would be to get a little aftermarket motorsport heater/demister (about $400).

Yep would be OMP as they sponsored the factory teams (well at least Ralliart Europe) I think I have a pic somewhere

I got rid of all of our heater box etc. I just run 4 12v CPU type fans mounted on the stock runners under the dash, it provides enough airflow to demist the dash quite well. I'm sure I have pics somewhere. Like George said, loop the coolant heater lines back around, works fine

I cant see it being worth the trouble (or the cost)... especially when a SR20 is a almost equally as good of an engine, (or even the ease of putting in a RB2somthing) Worst case, sell the 4G63 and buy a good SR and off you go.

yeah all good :) All you will need to enter a khanacross is a basic cams licence (about $80) a helmet (just a basic motorbike helmet is fine, and long sleeves and pants. Some events might also need you to have a fire extinguisher, but just the type from supercheap is fine. entry fees are...