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im in the South East, i should have the thing running this weekend and if you dont mind ill try make a trip since up ill make members ride post once its running/driving

all sweet plugged in that little magic box and its sparking and injectors are clicking as they should thanks a heap ive done a few reshells for it to seem not such a big job to swap a dash, plus the amount of gear ive striped out of this jumbuck i wont need to do half as much work as i normally...

gonna run to wreckers and grab one thanks guys i wanna grab the whole dash to replace the crappy looking proton one ive never seen a better looking dash than a std full black cc lancer

i have an engine from an aus spec 95 gsr and most of the looms sorted but a plug trailing away from the ecu with 8 plugs a search came up with what i think should be there other than that i get engine light come on then off the wipers all work but no spark or injector clicks when i spin the...

seams to drive alot better having the back as low as the front, like no more feeling like your hitting bumps with the car pointed down. prob just less weight of front wheels too ill set a stringline around the car see if its changed much, i noticed before i started i did have some neg camber on...

plus i got that s15 done and ended up swapping it for a evo 7, needed abit of work but i was gonna pull it apart anyway

another update been my daily for awhile now doesnt miss a beat finally got around to putting the evo front on, ended up swapping my E3 fibre kit for a real evo1 front bar, wasnt looking forward to extending those skirts anyway and i finally got to the second part of lowering the back, i used...

im looking for the pipe that runs along the top of the intercooler on lancer 1/2/3's, send me a price or maybe swap for an evo3 rear wing or exchange for the aftermarket one that i have that runs around the left hand side thanks

take the banjo bolt of the back to release all of the pressure, it does mean you'll need to bleed it afterwards thou if the piston doesnt want to move back after that it may be jammed, try rotating the piston left and right as you try to compress

i think ive gone thru your entire thread twice since im been thinking since before i got this jumbuck, theres some very good info there some more work ive done, just removed the front leaf mount bolt and dropped the rear back down now with it in position with a few spacers to give the shackles...

Had to make a new yahoo since it's been so long but I'm in, too bad you can't link to old posts from the photo gallery

oh and do the leafs have pins or holes to locate the diff? or nothing at all

the only thing i see to be a problem is if i drop the axle too much the lower shock mounts will be very close to the road, maybe a combination of that AND raising the leaf mount yeah its all getting swapped, engine gaurds bonnet and all the skirts but i think ill keep the standard dash even...

and the jumbuck in question

a few pics from the parts car and some of the metal plates picked up the lancer for 1500 from nsw came with brand new BC coilovers, guinuine hks front mount and piping full 3inch from the turbo plus it looks like its been rebuilt some time in its life since im getting like 160's psi on comp...

yeah i think plates are the way to go for me, im terrible at welding. but fabricating a plate i can do ive got a few of these heavy steel plates and the thickness of them might work since at the same time i would like to gain a wider rear track the lowered leafs, seeing there in perth it wont...

Having just bought a jumbuck I'm now in the process of lowering it, fronts are easy as putting a set of lancer coilovers in there but lowering a "axle" I use that term loosely, is a bit more involved considering it runs an offset stub axle that sits BELOW the leafs Now I'm not really looking to...