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are you using a fuse or breaker on the 12v supply to the pump?

Progress is still progress, good work.

looks like it didn't work, was only a video of some guy using the socket and hammer technique. ps. you use a normal spring compressor tool to get them back on

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aZTnODXfDvA

Personal protective equipment ;) lol

socket, hammer, rag and PPE!

yes just wire in a 12v input / 5v USB like this to the "ignition on" circuit, something like the cigarette lighter or stereo supply.

sound good, wiring is probably only power and ground, you'll be right.

upgrade... nah haven't got anywhere near the limit of this thing.

i think next time I'll just run a m11 tap through the block and use the evo ARP studs. Still the ARP M10 mr2 ones are holding up to consistent 35psi and has seen as high as 43psi.

sorry maybe you've covered this in another thread... any update here?

what was your peak torque and at what rpm?

I ask about the other things because with my setup, when i have had a head gasket issue, it was not the root cause. Generally, knock or just simply too much combustion pressure which would overcome the head bolts/studs causing the gasket failure. The standard 4g93 gasket in my CE is a multi...

how are the head bolts? was any knock/ detonation? what's the sdt head gasket?

maybe the door light staying on was the cause of the flat battery?

slick time, second pump, more boost and see if it'll crack 10s

gee it's been a while but i was playing a bit at the track so i thought I'd post something. https://youtu.be/7fSsmzeRmZI

have a look at the 20g compressor map. looks like your 30psi at 450hp is outside it's operating range.

engine wasn't knock sensitive but running low timing advance? how close to mbt timing?

don't think it's the compressor really as it still has much more flow. but that said it looks like it's off to the left on the compressor map so maybe a little less efficient than it could be. how does it come on boost compared to the others?