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Depends how much power you've got, and how wide your tyres are. I had 190kw@wheels and 235/40/18's and after fitting the steel transfer case it would occasionally break an axle. Dropping the clutch in 2nd with the car rolling is much less likely to break something than doing it in 1st or at a...

Not a stupid question at all. The alloy transfer cases are much weaker, I split mine clean in half the day after the above video was made. Replaced it with a steel cased one and it lasted 4 years of abuse. The viscous diff's don't have a great lsd action, once they get hot they'll just spin...

Here's a little advice from someone who's actually done this (for 4 years): Weld the centre diff, don't muck about with the viscous coupling eliminator mentioned above. Remove the front axles, you'll need to put the outer cv's back into the hubs to hold the wheelbearings together and use frost...

What? The spring seat should only be used to adjust spring pre-load, you DO want to adjust the bottom of the strut to change ride height - why else would it be adjustable?

My 16G made 189kw @ wheels on 15psi with 264º cams, 510's & evo afm, s-afc, 38mm w'gate, 3" exhaust from o2 housing back, no muffler, stock intercooler and piping on 98 octane. Would really like to get a link ecu into it and see what it can do with a proper tune and some more boost (have also...

Smaller exhaust housing - 6cm one from a vr4 is a straight fit. Check the wastegate flap is closing properly too.

Fto front's work too (tis what I have in mine) Rear's I took to an engineering place and had re-drilled.

I'm aware what the discussion is about. I posted the information in response to this post: So we have ascertained that: * All 3 variations of vr4 gearbox (km255, w5m33 3.545 and w5m33 3.909) use the same centre diff. * gsr (w5m33 3.545) and evo 1,2,3 (w5m33 3.909) use the same centre diff...

What have the notches got to do with anything? All the centre diff's I've seen have had them in the same place. Early vr4 boxes are KM255's (3.545 only) whilst later ones are W5M33's (3.545 and 3.909), perhaps someone could check if the part numbers for centre diff's are different between the...

Evo's use torque to yield head studs, which are not re-usable. Vr4 head studs are re-usable (provided they are still within tolerance, measure their length and compare to the numbers in the factory workshop manual).

Beware girls who don't have their own hobbies (no matter how good the reason), if she doesn't have a hobby she will quickly grow to resent you indulging yours.

Bigger pad area and bigger discs mean they take longer to get hot enough to fade - dependant on pads of course.

About 90% of the cars posted so far are a fair way off the mark anyway...

You don't want 0 camber at either end. For plain street use around 1.5 degree's negative at the front and .5 to 1 degree negative at the rear is pretty good.

Those wheels stick out the same amount as my 18x9+30's did before I adjusted the ride height Click here Just lower it a couple of inches (at least) add a bit of negative camber at the front and it'll look sweet. There's pics of my car in this thread already, black vr4 on xd9's.

Wonder what it would do without the restrictor... I'm 7.8:1 comp, 98 octane, 264º cams, stock ecu with an s-afc and making 190kW at wheels on 15psi with a 16g. I've got a boost spike in the midrange though (peaks at 18psi) so it makes above 170kw from 4500rpm to 6500rpm.

only 300km's to a tank on just 11psi? Do you nail it absolutely everywhere? I average 400-450km to a tank with 510's, evo afm, 264º cams and a very roughly tuned s-afc (making 200kw on 15psi)

I've got the same exedy clutch you're looking at in my vr4, damn good bit of kit, nice light pedal, not too grabby (for a puck clutch anyway) and has stood up to a tonne of abuse with not even the slightest hint of slippage.

Sorry guys it's got to go back... http://sniffpetrol.com/2010/11/30/gran-turismo-5-recalled/