GSRPSI
Well-Known Member
I got a 94 GSR an thinking of doing 2lt convertion but i dont know if the 1.8 gearbox an running gear is the same as a 2lt.
Can i use 1.8 running gear on the 2lt
Can i use 1.8 running gear on the 2lt
2lt conversion FAQ's/Help ideas
- Thread starter GSRPSI
- Start date
Help Support 4GTuner:
Yes.... basically the engine doesnt effect your 'drivetrain' but moreso how its gonna be bolted into your engine bay and connected to everything.
* With either engine you can keep your existing GSR gearbox as its matched to your GSR diff ratio - it will bolt to either EVO or VR4 engine and work fine.
* With either 2 litre engine, you're gonna need the EVO 1-3 front engine mount (where the timing belt cover is) -you can buy one from Meek.
* You will also need however a 4G63T flywheel (6 bolt if VR4 engine, 7 bolt if EVO engine), a 2 litre clutch and pressure plate.
* If you got the VR4 engine you will also need to the passenger side driveshaft.
* The transfer case can be retained.
I'm assuming now that you know that your existing GSR gearbox will be fine I wont woffle on about EVO/VR4 gearboxes and gears, LSD, diff ratios, VR4 engine mounts etc lol :lol:
* With either engine you can keep your existing GSR gearbox as its matched to your GSR diff ratio - it will bolt to either EVO or VR4 engine and work fine.
* With either 2 litre engine, you're gonna need the EVO 1-3 front engine mount (where the timing belt cover is) -you can buy one from Meek.
* You will also need however a 4G63T flywheel (6 bolt if VR4 engine, 7 bolt if EVO engine), a 2 litre clutch and pressure plate.
* If you got the VR4 engine you will also need to the passenger side driveshaft.
* The transfer case can be retained.
I'm assuming now that you know that your existing GSR gearbox will be fine I wont woffle on about EVO/VR4 gearboxes and gears, LSD, diff ratios, VR4 engine mounts etc lol :lol:
JSTYLE
I AM THEEE DYNO QUEEN!
Re: 2lt convertion
Hey man,
I see your car alot around ringwood centro area.. its nice burgundy gsr with nice SA15 wheels.. looks nice as
in regards to your question..
yes you can use gsr gearbox on a 2 litre conversion
yes you can use the existing running gear
and its pretty much a bolt on mod
if you need anymore help.. just pm or email [email protected] and ill help you out anyway you need.
Jon
GSRPSI said:
Hey man,
I see your car alot around ringwood centro area.. its nice burgundy gsr with nice SA15 wheels.. looks nice as
in regards to your question..
yes you can use gsr gearbox on a 2 litre conversion
yes you can use the existing running gear
and its pretty much a bolt on mod
if you need anymore help.. just pm or email [email protected] and ill help you out anyway you need.
Jon
Re: 2lt convertion
yeah right :!:
If you would like a run through of EVERYTHING that you need to change to do this conversion email me, ive almost completed the conversion on mine.
cheers
Dan
JSTYLE said:and its pretty much a bolt on mod
yeah right :!:
If you would like a run through of EVERYTHING that you need to change to do this conversion email me, ive almost completed the conversion on mine.
cheers
Dan
JSTYLE
I AM THEEE DYNO QUEEN!
lol.. well if you didnt buy a halfcast motor which was in pieces then it would be ok.. i assume that the guy is either buying an engine/loom/ecu or possibly a half cut.. he hasnt even stated what engine he is running.. so if its an Evo.. the loom will bolt up..
you did yours the run around way.. with heaps of half cast parts.. IF you bought an engine with loom then you would be done by now..
a 2 litre conversion in the right hands is basically a 2-3 day job.. EASY..
Jon
you did yours the run around way.. with heaps of half cast parts.. IF you bought an engine with loom then you would be done by now..
a 2 litre conversion in the right hands is basically a 2-3 day job.. EASY..
Jon
I could do it in a full day's work or at the most 1.5 days I actually had my VR4 engine running at one stage using a GSR wiring loom and GSR ECU - not registered on the road, but it was running nonetheless and drivable up and down the street 8) I'm about to do a VR4 engine conversion in a mates GSR as well, just gotta finish rebuilding his motor first :roll:
I actually had my VR4 engine running at one stage using a GSR wiring loom and GSR ECU - not registered on the road, but it was running nonetheless and drivable up and down the street 8) I'm about to do a VR4 engine conversion in a mates GSR as well, just gotta finish rebuilding his motor first :roll:JSTYLE said:
The only thing missing from my motor was a gearbox, coils and leads.
evo motor direct swap in and out maybe you could do in a couple of days.............
and whats this half-cast stuff you are referring to? we aint talking about you here remember? :lol: I havent skimped on any part of the conversion, which is why its taken so long.
id like to see you do that in 3 days. Good luck to ya!
EVO00X and i have done a 4G93t swap from a 4g93 sohc in my old wagon in 2 days, we also did my coupe from a 4g93 sohc to a 4g63t in 1 day
Basically it all comes down to knowledge and experiance, we've done a few conversions now and basically know what to do in what order
EVO00X dont u have a word document on swappin a 4g93 GSR engine to a VR4 engine, you gave me a copy when u gave me the engine manual
Basically it all comes down to knowledge and experiance, we've done a few conversions now and basically know what to do in what order
EVO00X dont u have a word document on swappin a 4g93 GSR engine to a VR4 engine, you gave me a copy when u gave me the engine manual
Entaran
Well-Known Member
Made sticky due to above.
GSRPSI
Well-Known Member
Thanks guys for all ya help
JETGSR
CAPTAIN BURRITO!
This is probably late, But the GSR 94 G box and the transfer case will bolt straight up the the 4G63T motor providing it is EVO 123
and it will handle the power OK
I'm running it, and it is fine std diff and box and shafts
even the left front drive shaft bearing idler that attaches to the side of the motor fits (right beside the A/C)
go the 1/2 cut thought you can never have enf spares!
the wiring loom is a little tricky if you are not doing the chassis harness
JetGSR
and it will handle the power OK
I'm running it, and it is fine std diff and box and shafts
even the left front drive shaft bearing idler that attaches to the side of the motor fits (right beside the A/C)
go the 1/2 cut thought you can never have enf spares!
the wiring loom is a little tricky if you are not doing the chassis harness
JetGSR
Just a question:
I currently have the 4g93 in my GSR, however i have the afm, turbo, injectors and throttle body from an evo 2 running on it. I also have the 2L manifold for the turbo sitting here at home.
Goign by this post, i will need:
4g63 from an evo 1-3 (wont need the turbo)
Front engine mount to suit
clutch/pressure plate/flywheel to suit the 4g63
Is that all? Can the existing wiring loom be used? My ECU has been chipped by Meek with an evo 3 base map, so will that work with the 4g63?
I currently have the 4g93 in my GSR, however i have the afm, turbo, injectors and throttle body from an evo 2 running on it. I also have the 2L manifold for the turbo sitting here at home.
Goign by this post, i will need:
4g63 from an evo 1-3 (wont need the turbo)
Front engine mount to suit
clutch/pressure plate/flywheel to suit the 4g63
Is that all? Can the existing wiring loom be used? My ECU has been chipped by Meek with an evo 3 base map, so will that work with the 4g63?
JETGSR
CAPTAIN BURRITO!
I'm still using the gsr chassis loom but grafted the evo loom to the GSR chassis loom - the alt. & a/c are in different places and you'll need to change the A/C wiring at the dryer (pressure switches) but other than that it is a sinch!
have fun
JetGSR
have fun
JetGSR
Got the VR4 engine built during doing another project (frikken busy in my holidays) so now its ready to go into my mates GSR. We used an EVO front engine mount and found that a section had to be ground off to clear the new VR4 water pump we had already purchased, and we had to cut a larger hole in the VR4 front timing case to clear the EVO engine mount. Something that could be rectified using an EVO timing case etc I'd imagine but the main aim at the moment is to get the engine in and running as its his daily driver. He's already got a Haltech E6X ECU running the 4G93T with 450cc injectors and TD05 14B turbo so it should just be a straight swap in depending on where his custom intercooler piping and dump pipe is located once the 2 litre goes in mid-late January (just waiting on a clutch kit to come from America first). Thanks to Meek again for supplying us with a lot of the goodies we needed for the rebuild - it's great to have a one-stop shop handy who knows wtf you are talking about
(just waiting on a clutch kit to come from America first). Thanks to Meek again for supplying us with a lot of the goodies we needed for the rebuild - it's great to have a one-stop shop handy who knows wtf you are talking about OK, I rebuilt and installed the VR4 engine into my mates GSR last week. Pretty easy conversion and here's some quick notes to consider when doing it yourself. This guide can also be used if you want to upgrade to a 4G63T VR4/EVO engine into your already GSR 4G93T powered coupe, Proton M21 or GTi too :wink:
1. You need the 4G63 Alternator and belt if the engine didnt come with it attached
2. Separate the alternator/starter motor wiring from the stock GSR wiring loom and extend the alternator wiring to behind the drivers side headlight, along the bottom of the radiator and up to the 4G63 alternator. The power supply cable to the back of the alternator will require the loop to be cut off and another one used which has a larger diameter hole to fit on the 4G63 alternator.
3. You will need the 4G63 power steering pump and cradle... turbo models use a non ribbed wheel on the power steering pump and waterpump, although you can also use the ribbed 4G63 version as long as you have the ribbed wheels on both the power steering pump and water pump and the right belt to suit. You can retain the stock GSR power steering lines.
4. You will need to ditch the stock GSR fuel return line and use about 90cm worth of 8mm fuel return hose from the firewall to the fuel rail/regulator. Protect it with conduit.
5. You can retain the GSR's coil packs and ignitor, and would be best if you had the VR4 backing plate for them. If not, you can get away with using the GSR plate but you can only get one bolt in position on the side of the VR4 intake manifold to hold it on... this will do in the short term until you find a better location to mount the coil packs.
6. Most of the water temp plugs/sensors are OK except one I found where I had to pinch the sensor from the GSR. i.e. the sensor on the bottom of the VR4 thermostat housing was different to the plug on the GSR loom so I grabbed the sensor from the GSR engine and it bolts in and plugs up fine in the VR4 unit.
7. Heater hoses - surprisingly, you can still use the GSR water lines to and from the firewall to the engine... its not perfect, but the hoses arent kinked and will work fine. As for radiator hoses we stuck with the stock 4G93T lower radiator hose and had to make something up for the top hose from hose I had laying around off another car.
8. You will need to undo and remove the GSR black plastic sheath that holds all the injector wiring (yup, the plastic elbow that bolted to your 4G93T intake manifold). Put the wiring in conduit and tidy up - there is no need for extending or cutting/changing anything here.
9. If you have a VR4 evo engine as in our case, the original GSR crank angle sensor plug will bolt straight into the VR4 evo 4-wire CAS. If you dont have VR4 evo engine and have the earlier style VR4 CAS, you will need to rewire the CAS to suit (I didnt do this so cant comment on it) and here is something I grabbed from somewhere else that will help:
If its a VR4 engine the Cam/Crank angle sensor will need to be rewired, totally different plugs. These are the colours that go together, red to red, white to white, black to large black, yellow to small black. Only Evo 0 VR4 engines have the same style cam/crank angle sensor as the Evo and GSR, so no rewire required.
10. You can retain the stock GSR starter motor but I found we had to elongate the holes in the plate that sits between the block and the gearbox that the starter motor bolts go through. The holes are slightly off line so get out a drill and elongate them so the starter motor bolts can get through once you bolt the GSR box onto the VR4 engine.
11. You will definitely need 4g63 spark plug leads and spark plugs. You can get away with starting the engine up using the GSR plugs and leads but it will missfire. Get the right goods here, stock NGK 6 's are fine for a basic stock to mild setup.
12. Aircon - throw away your GSR aircon unit as it wont suit the 4G63. You will also not be able to use the aircon hose from the unit to the condensor to the firewall. You CAN however retain the other half of the aircon lines from the condensor to the dryer unit to the firewall. Get the 4G63 aircon unit and mounting bracket - both brackets!! The plate that bolts to the back of the block which acts as a 8mm spacer for the LHS driveshaft, and the actual aircon tensioner bracket itself.
13. You will need the VR4 LHS driveshaft and mount it to the back of the block. If you dont have the aircon plate bolted out the back that acts as the 8mm spacer (on the bolt hole closest to the timing belt), you will need to use 8mm worth of high tensile spacer instead (thick washer, head stud washers perhaps etc?). We used the VR4 aircon plate bolted to the block first, then bolted the LHS driveshaft onto it.
14. We used a brand new complete 2 piece EVO 3 front engine mount in this case. We found that we had to cut out the hole in the VR4 timing cover to clear the mount, and grind back a section of the E3 mount to clear VR4 waterpump. No VR4 engine mounts are required. All the mounts on the GSR box are fine.
15. Grab the 4G63T oil cooler if you can as it will be good to have it all hooked up. If you didnt get it you may find it hard to find something to block the holes up. Warning: Dont concoct something up with a rubber hose as the high pressure from the oil pump will be sure to blow it off and you will lose all your oil!! . The best option here is to go factory oil cooler or aftermarket system.
16. You dont need to hook up the throttle closed position switch on the VR4 throttle body. The stepper plug and water hoses hook up no problem to the VR4 evo engine. However if you have an earlier VR4 engine you will need to do the following:
If using the non VR4 evo engine the throttle body wires need rewiring. The colours are Green/Black to Black, Green/Red to Green/Red, Green/White to Green/White and the Yellow/Red wire is left unconnected (unconfirmed). If using EVO engine it doesnt need rewiring.
17. The GSR throttle cable mounts on the tappet cover of the 4G93T, however on the 4G63T the cable mounts onto the fuel rail bolts. This means you will have to drill out the holes in brackets that hold throttle cable in place to a larger diameter to bolt up to the fuel rail bolts.
18. Obviously the intercooler piping and dump pipe will need to be altered to suit the 4G63T. Sometimes you may be lucky if you already have aftermarket plumbing , but in our case it was close, but not close enough for the dump pipe and had to change the angle to get it to bolt up right.
19. You need a longer vacuum hose for the brake booster to the intake manifold of the 4G63. We joined 2 hoses together with a barbed metal joiner to suit - not the safest of options but will be changed to a one-piece hose ASAP.
20. Its best to use the TD05 water and oil lines that come with the VR4 engine. If you didnt get the turbo or oil/water lines with the motor dont forget to get them when buying your turbo.
21. You can keep the GSR AFM
22. Go out and buy yourself a brand new 4G63 clutch kit :lol:
As for the ECU, the GSR ECU will kick over the VR4/EVO motor and run it but it wont run the best. We had a Haltech E6X and plug in loom installed with a stock VR4 tune in it until the engine runs in.
umm there's bound to be something else I missed but I think that's most of it.
Rob
EVO-00X
1. You need the 4G63 Alternator and belt if the engine didnt come with it attached
2. Separate the alternator/starter motor wiring from the stock GSR wiring loom and extend the alternator wiring to behind the drivers side headlight, along the bottom of the radiator and up to the 4G63 alternator. The power supply cable to the back of the alternator will require the loop to be cut off and another one used which has a larger diameter hole to fit on the 4G63 alternator.
3. You will need the 4G63 power steering pump and cradle... turbo models use a non ribbed wheel on the power steering pump and waterpump, although you can also use the ribbed 4G63 version as long as you have the ribbed wheels on both the power steering pump and water pump and the right belt to suit. You can retain the stock GSR power steering lines.
4. You will need to ditch the stock GSR fuel return line and use about 90cm worth of 8mm fuel return hose from the firewall to the fuel rail/regulator. Protect it with conduit.
5. You can retain the GSR's coil packs and ignitor, and would be best if you had the VR4 backing plate for them. If not, you can get away with using the GSR plate but you can only get one bolt in position on the side of the VR4 intake manifold to hold it on... this will do in the short term until you find a better location to mount the coil packs.
6. Most of the water temp plugs/sensors are OK except one I found where I had to pinch the sensor from the GSR. i.e. the sensor on the bottom of the VR4 thermostat housing was different to the plug on the GSR loom so I grabbed the sensor from the GSR engine and it bolts in and plugs up fine in the VR4 unit.
7. Heater hoses - surprisingly, you can still use the GSR water lines to and from the firewall to the engine... its not perfect, but the hoses arent kinked and will work fine. As for radiator hoses we stuck with the stock 4G93T lower radiator hose and had to make something up for the top hose from hose I had laying around off another car.
8. You will need to undo and remove the GSR black plastic sheath that holds all the injector wiring (yup, the plastic elbow that bolted to your 4G93T intake manifold). Put the wiring in conduit and tidy up - there is no need for extending or cutting/changing anything here.
9. If you have a VR4 evo engine as in our case, the original GSR crank angle sensor plug will bolt straight into the VR4 evo 4-wire CAS. If you dont have VR4 evo engine and have the earlier style VR4 CAS, you will need to rewire the CAS to suit (I didnt do this so cant comment on it) and here is something I grabbed from somewhere else that will help:
If its a VR4 engine the Cam/Crank angle sensor will need to be rewired, totally different plugs. These are the colours that go together, red to red, white to white, black to large black, yellow to small black. Only Evo 0 VR4 engines have the same style cam/crank angle sensor as the Evo and GSR, so no rewire required.
10. You can retain the stock GSR starter motor but I found we had to elongate the holes in the plate that sits between the block and the gearbox that the starter motor bolts go through. The holes are slightly off line so get out a drill and elongate them so the starter motor bolts can get through once you bolt the GSR box onto the VR4 engine.
11. You will definitely need 4g63 spark plug leads and spark plugs. You can get away with starting the engine up using the GSR plugs and leads but it will missfire. Get the right goods here, stock NGK 6 's are fine for a basic stock to mild setup.
12. Aircon - throw away your GSR aircon unit as it wont suit the 4G63. You will also not be able to use the aircon hose from the unit to the condensor to the firewall. You CAN however retain the other half of the aircon lines from the condensor to the dryer unit to the firewall. Get the 4G63 aircon unit and mounting bracket - both brackets!! The plate that bolts to the back of the block which acts as a 8mm spacer for the LHS driveshaft, and the actual aircon tensioner bracket itself.
13. You will need the VR4 LHS driveshaft and mount it to the back of the block. If you dont have the aircon plate bolted out the back that acts as the 8mm spacer (on the bolt hole closest to the timing belt), you will need to use 8mm worth of high tensile spacer instead (thick washer, head stud washers perhaps etc?). We used the VR4 aircon plate bolted to the block first, then bolted the LHS driveshaft onto it.
14. We used a brand new complete 2 piece EVO 3 front engine mount in this case. We found that we had to cut out the hole in the VR4 timing cover to clear the mount, and grind back a section of the E3 mount to clear VR4 waterpump. No VR4 engine mounts are required. All the mounts on the GSR box are fine.
15. Grab the 4G63T oil cooler if you can as it will be good to have it all hooked up. If you didnt get it you may find it hard to find something to block the holes up. Warning: Dont concoct something up with a rubber hose as the high pressure from the oil pump will be sure to blow it off and you will lose all your oil!! . The best option here is to go factory oil cooler or aftermarket system.
16. You dont need to hook up the throttle closed position switch on the VR4 throttle body. The stepper plug and water hoses hook up no problem to the VR4 evo engine. However if you have an earlier VR4 engine you will need to do the following:
If using the non VR4 evo engine the throttle body wires need rewiring. The colours are Green/Black to Black, Green/Red to Green/Red, Green/White to Green/White and the Yellow/Red wire is left unconnected (unconfirmed). If using EVO engine it doesnt need rewiring.
17. The GSR throttle cable mounts on the tappet cover of the 4G93T, however on the 4G63T the cable mounts onto the fuel rail bolts. This means you will have to drill out the holes in brackets that hold throttle cable in place to a larger diameter to bolt up to the fuel rail bolts.
18. Obviously the intercooler piping and dump pipe will need to be altered to suit the 4G63T. Sometimes you may be lucky if you already have aftermarket plumbing , but in our case it was close, but not close enough for the dump pipe and had to change the angle to get it to bolt up right.
19. You need a longer vacuum hose for the brake booster to the intake manifold of the 4G63. We joined 2 hoses together with a barbed metal joiner to suit - not the safest of options but will be changed to a one-piece hose ASAP.
20. Its best to use the TD05 water and oil lines that come with the VR4 engine. If you didnt get the turbo or oil/water lines with the motor dont forget to get them when buying your turbo.
21. You can keep the GSR AFM
22. Go out and buy yourself a brand new 4G63 clutch kit :lol:
As for the ECU, the GSR ECU will kick over the VR4/EVO motor and run it but it wont run the best. We had a Haltech E6X and plug in loom installed with a stock VR4 tune in it until the engine runs in.
umm there's bound to be something else I missed but I think that's most of it.
Rob
EVO-00X
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