4 bolt rear end

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GVR40

Passion Fingers
Joined
Apr 4, 2005
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Location
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hi guys

i may have stumbled across a 4 bolt rear diff assembley for a vr4, not sure, only saw it out of the corner of my eye the other day, but what i want to know before i go and ask some questions and look at it, is what do i need to do to my aspec to fit/make this work, do i need a new gearbox/tranny case/driveshafts, remove 4WS, this is probly more directed at lawrence coz he seems to know too much about this

any help would be good, if the price is right and it is off a galant i may just get it and wait for the other bits on my car to break before replacing

GVR40
 
GVR40 said:
hi guys

i may have stumbled across a 4 bolt rear diff assembley for a vr4, not sure, only saw it out of the corner of my eye the other day, but what i want to know before i go and ask some questions and look at it, is what do i need to do to my aspec to fit/make this work, do i need a new gearbox/tranny case/driveshafts, remove 4WS, this is probly more directed at lawrence coz he seems to know too much about this

any help would be good, if the price is right and it is off a galant i may just get it and wait for the other bits on my car to break before replacing

GVR40

4 bolt rear diff... double check the axle bolts to make sure it's a square pattern as the 3 bolts are triangular. Driveshafts will be 23-24 mm in diameter instead of 20-21mm. The rear diff is usually geared to match a 3.909 box so you will need to double check this with the crown wheel in the diff and do some calcs or pull the numbers off the back of the diff casing and we'll tell you. 3.545 4bolts only ever came on monte's I believe so they do exist but are rare as hen's teeth. The other option of course is to just get a 3.909 gearbox with matching tcase (which isn't 23 spline from memory like standard 3.545).

You can hook them up with 4ws, doesn't take that much effort but this is a decision you should make at the time. Do you LIKE the 4ws, or do you NOT LIKE the 4ws. Obviously you know which way to go once you answer this question. If you go 3.909, 110kmh will be about 3800 RPM instead of 3100rpm. Your top speed is reduced from 254kmh @ 7400rpm in 5th to 208kmh @ 7400rpm in 5th.

3.909 boxes do not have the synchro issues as 3.545 boxes do.

You should be looking at 900-1400 dollars for a 4 bolt rear setup axle to axle. (Caliper to caliper).
 
i've gone through this long and painfull install...
some advice on identifing the 4bolt

looks exactly like the 3bolt but with 4bolts.. lol.. seriously (on the axels)
look for a sticker on the pumpkin, it should state 3.909 or 3.545 and also if its lsd it will state LSD OIL or VISCOUS LSD...

not sure about the 3.5 monte carlo's... but i know for a fact that the monto that arthur had was a close ratio box... and as for 100kph. i believe it was designed to be at around the same as the aus specs... unless he did have a 3.5 which made it the same as the aspec.. (getting confused now)

Anyway, the 3.9 box is known as the evo box, therefor i believe it had better internals such as forks / syncro's etc etc...

and 4ws, some 4bolts have 4ws some dont...

if you have 4ws, its a direct bolt on but i tell you know, PAIN IN THE ASS!!
get rid of the 4WS completely... make a plate to block off the old pump or cut the pumps shaft and bolt it back in, otherwise it'll sieze without the p/s fluid circulating through it with the removal..

if u dont have the option to get the 3.9 box, u can remove the 3bolt 3.5 crown /wheel and pinion and place it into the 4bolt so u get the strength and the top end... jstyle had this done by darren from AFAS..

so no need to shift to 5 down the track !!
 
I am pretty sure my 4-bolt is a 3.9 and its about 3600 at 110.

An my other point was that why would you change down ratios for the track? Who cares if you ahve to change an extra gear when racing, you get there quicker.

Driving on the highways is a different story. It's a pain in the ass.
 
BobWrinkle said:
I am pretty sure my 4-bolt is a 3.9 and its about 3600 at 110.

An my other point was that why would you change down ratios for the track? Who cares if you ahve to change an extra gear when racing, you get there quicker.

Driving on the highways is a different story. It's a pain in the ass.
changing into 5th takes precious time
 
tharaka said:
BobWrinkle said:
I am pretty sure my 4-bolt is a 3.9 and its about 3600 at 110.

An my other point was that why would you change down ratios for the track? Who cares if you ahve to change an extra gear when racing, you get there quicker.

changing into 5th takes precious time

It does indeed. Cade, look at your build plate with the chassis number on it, where it says transaxle, it'll either have 3545 or 3909.

As for the non 4WS and 4WS 4-bolts, the VR4 EVO's had 4WS, and the RS's didnt. If it does have it, get rid of it- its one of the worse parts they ever put on our cars besides the ugly jap spec front guard parker lights!!!

lorrie- why on earth do you like it??
 
CLuTZ said:
As for the non 4WS and 4WS 4-bolts, the VR4 EVO's had 4WS, and the RS's didnt.

Not true, check your galant manual. The RS came in 2 models. 4ws and no 4ws. :D

And cheers dre, i can finally say with confidence that i have a 3.909 :D
 
BobWrinkle said:
Not true, check your galant manual. The RS came in 2 models. 4ws and no 4ws. :D

yes, but the RS with 4WS didnt have the 4-bolt, we're talking about facelift models here cade
 
they have a vr4 read diff, don't know if it is 4 bolt or 3 bolt, and don't know the ratio, i was piled underneath about 4 other diffs, but the want $400 for it, is that a good price

GVR40

ps. it looked like the driveshafts were thicker than stock
 
tim, you know my brain too well,

ok, time for some more questions, am i looking for 4 bolt where the tailshaft bolts to the diff, or where the diff bolts to the axles?

GVR40
 

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