4g63 Quad Throttle......

4GTuner

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will this be running a mani, or you just leaving the trumpets free to air? Also how would you sort the idle speed motor etc? Or is this a total custom ECU etc setup or nothing kind of deal?

PS - not being a critic, just curious. Looks freakin awesome, would love the quad setup. Nice work :thumbsup:
 
thanks everyone for the comments.. i too have always wanted a Quad throttle car... i did.. it was an Alfa GTV 2lt quad carb, awsome at top end and was just a screamer, so its time for another round..

to answers everyones questions (feel free to keep asking, cause i'm still learning too)

ECU will be a Microtech MT8 (the old blue one)


Block/bottom:

decked top
bored and honed out .050
new ACL oversized pistons
resized conrods
ARP conrod bolts
full engine balance
cleaned and linished crank
deleted balance shafts
VR4 oil filter housing
extended sump (with previsions for a turbo :p)
alloy under drive harmonic balancer
balanced flywheel

Head:

ported and polished
3 angle valve job
new stock valves
new guides/seals
272 or 264's cams
BC springs etc
stock cam gears

ideal red line would be around the 9-10k mark, or i want torque to at least finish around 8k ish...

matched with:

the obvious quad throttle
intake mani which holds twin pod filters for street and velocity stacks for track
4-1 long extractors (i mean like 1m long primaries)

for the turbo fun, there will be a Manifold made for the Quads with 3" inlet, then a EVO 7/8 turbo with custom mani and possible a 20g wheel...


engine will be run in as a stock N/A for the first 1000km then the goodies will be slapped on for fun and tuning... then after the N/A has had its run the turbo will be slapped on.....

fair list of things to doo.... but money is just the issue atm.. Krud gave me the head start, now just have to keep it going...
 
i can see a couple of things in that list which are not quite right.

to start with make sure the under pulley is not a solid billet as our engines need the dampening effect of the rubber on the outside belt drive ring to *help* smooth some of the harmonic vibrations. the fuliddyne ones are nice from memory.

however if this is only a short lived engine i would not worry about the damper too much.

the cams, way to small for that RPM, the 272's will top out way before 9-10k, even the 280's i have at the moment are at their legs above about 9k so you may want to go a bit larger than 272's

apart from that i think your onto a winnar :D
 
oh another thing...

redline should be set where your max power starts dropping off, not just because you can.

each 100rpm increase in redline adds massively to the total piston volicity, which ultimately is the killer in terms of failure.

for instance (pulls number out ass)

8krpm a piston travel 6000ft per second, at 9krpm it travels much more say around 7000ft per second (ass numbers)

the lower you keep the redline the more happy your motor will be. about 200rpm after max power is about perfect :)
 
just what do you rev your engine out to craig? with 280's!!!

i am interested in how you will run the idle control to each cylinder. also brake booster vacuum? obvious no cold idle? or sometype of programed cold idle control in the ecu?
 
i only rev my car to 7800rpm, only because the bottom end is completely stock.

i used to have a full 4G63 setup in engine analyser pro which i used to use quite often, however vista sucks and died, lost it all.

but i did gleen one useful bit of info, piston speed, keep it low and set you redline soon after max power.

on the subject of of idle etc too. some mates of mine (Jazz9) had a quad t/b 4AGE and i t was a womans preverbal to tune below WOT because quads dont pull much vacumn for the map sensor so you need to tune using TPS which then the change over between TPS and MAP becomes important.

drivability tuning was very hard from memory. now when i say that i dont mean fuel consumption, more like bucking and kicking in low revs and throlttle positions etc. i.e. 90% of normal driving
 
i'm atm finding a billet alloy under drive solid harmonic balancer, which will be re balanced like my crank was etc...

i have a set of ridiculously rough cams which i gave to FRONTN, which held power really really well on my N/A till literally red line 7.5k (with matched ECU from where ever Dre got it from lol) no idle what so ever though, i just want to purely see what a 4g with quads can really do with nothing holding it back etc.... not fussed for red line etc, it will be blown anyways and i might actually hit the track with this thing eventually....

as for cold starts, i'm really hoping the MT8 has a cold start map on it but other wise its old school foot/brick cold start...

each chamber will be joint via hose to a central Vacume container, where the booster/gauge/ECU will get all there readings from .....

i'm still planning everything else atm.... please keep the thoughts coming though there is a first for everything....
 
the idea with the shared vacumn source in the TB's sound good, but what i was trying to say about the pulley is harmonic vibrations, which you know are different to rotational or static imbalances.

its all fine and dandy removing the balance shafts, as they are there to reduce harmonic vibrations for drivers/passengers by using counter rotating inertia.

however the damper is there to reduce the harmonic imbalance of a 4 cylinder engine at the end your crankshaft. its not something that should just be removed/changed without some thought.

but yea, if its a grenade go for it! i would :D
 
my suggestion is get in a tunnel in this thing when its done and floor the fuck out of it and watch a whole forum jizz in their pants
 
to4garret said:
the idea with the shared vacumn source in the TB's sound good, but what i was trying to say about the pulley is harmonic vibrations, which you know are different to rotational or static imbalances.

its all fine and dandy removing the balance shafts, as they are there to reduce harmonic vibrations for drivers/passengers by using counter rotating inertia.

however the damper is there to reduce the harmonic imbalance of a 4 cylinder engine at the end your crankshaft. its not something that should just be removed/changed without some thought.

but yea, if its a grenade go for it! i would :D
Click to expand...

lol i love grenades, there so, whats that word..... explosive lol.... damnz this is so much easier with a big block V8... but i understand what you mean....

mattrat said:
my suggestion is get in a tunnel in this thing when its done and floor the fuck out of it and watch a whole forum jizz in their pants
Click to expand...

DONE!

i'm even thinking, after everything.... keep it quad'd and shove it straigt into a old Galant GTO or 4 door replica of a GTO.....
 
do it jay, rwd yer? leave the stacks on it, scream round the drift track off the limiter imagine. wow. ima go to bed now and get happy
 
if you want a high revving engine have you considered destroking it a bit jay?.. i read somewhere months and months ago about destroked 63's running well past 10k


either way i'm sure its gonna be great 8)
 

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