4G63 stroker
- Thread starter Andrewv
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Entaran
Well-Known Member
PM tonydav on clubvr4.org. He's just got his on the street with some bigass turbo. It's a 6 bolt stroker tho.
Most of the big kit makers reckon you should convert back to a 6 bolt motor when stroking.
Most of the big kit makers reckon you should convert back to a 6 bolt motor when stroking.
dedant
Well-Known Member
why you convert back to a 6 bolt, interested because i'm thinking the stroker is the go but i think all the japanese kits are 7 bolt
Entaran
Well-Known Member
Crank walk.
3zercrowd
Donating Member
OK...So plese confirm...which engine is a 6 bolt and which is a 7 bolt?
vr4= and
Evo1,2,3=
Maybe explain to people what you are talking about in relation to the term "6 bolt" and "7 bolt"?? :wink:
vr4= and
Evo1,2,3=
Maybe explain to people what you are talking about in relation to the term "6 bolt" and "7 bolt"?? :wink:
CLuTZ
Diamonds are forever....
6 and 7 are the number of bolts on the flywheel.
VR4 4G63's have 6, and they changed to 7 on the EVO 1-3 4G63's.
crankwalk is an issue for 7 bolt bottom ends, there is a tendancy for them to suffer from it, especially after rebuilds
HERE's A GOOD THREAD for you guys to ponder over.
dre
VR4 4G63's have 6, and they changed to 7 on the EVO 1-3 4G63's.
crankwalk is an issue for 7 bolt bottom ends, there is a tendancy for them to suffer from it, especially after rebuilds
HERE's A GOOD THREAD for you guys to ponder over.
dre
This engine wont be converted back to 6 bolt. The crank walk problem must be bearing clearance,crank hardness, or some other solvable problem related. Otherwise evo engines would be failing left right and centre.I have seen Evo engines with over 250000km and no problems. I also believe that most rebuilds involve clutch upgrades (therefor heavier pressure plates) .It is the pressure plate that generates all the end thrust on the crank.People have to get used to using neutral at lights etc and not sitting with the foot on the clutch also starting the engine with the foot on the clutch. (no oil around the thrusts).
This engine will have all standard Evo 3 manifolds ,turbo and electrics. Arp rod bolts, wisco pistons (8.8 comp),std rods,metal gasket,very mild port tidy up. I would run a max of 15 lb boost ( usually 10 lb).Std rev limit would apply. Does anyone see any major problems ?
It is a road engine that will occasionally see a sprint or hilclimb. I want reliability for a long period.
This engine will have all standard Evo 3 manifolds ,turbo and electrics. Arp rod bolts, wisco pistons (8.8 comp),std rods,metal gasket,very mild port tidy up. I would run a max of 15 lb boost ( usually 10 lb).Std rev limit would apply. Does anyone see any major problems ?
It is a road engine that will occasionally see a sprint or hilclimb. I want reliability for a long period.
Hi All,
I too am looking at doing a stroker conversion to my VR4 4g63 :twisted: I have got a 4g64 6-bolt crank and CP forged stroker pistons (gudgen pin moved higher up to make up for the extra 12mm stroke.
Does anybody have any suggestions as to how/if I should re-condition the crank (ie knife edge, balance, shot peen - I don't know) or just put it in the engine?
Andrew - Check out ebay if you haven't already, they sometimes have 7 bolt stroker kits complete going for about $1200 US. Keep me posted as to how you go!
I too am looking at doing a stroker conversion to my VR4 4g63 :twisted: I have got a 4g64 6-bolt crank and CP forged stroker pistons (gudgen pin moved higher up to make up for the extra 12mm stroke.
Does anybody have any suggestions as to how/if I should re-condition the crank (ie knife edge, balance, shot peen - I don't know) or just put it in the engine?
Andrew - Check out ebay if you haven't already, they sometimes have 7 bolt stroker kits complete going for about $1200 US. Keep me posted as to how you go!
I have purchased a complete late 4G64 engine as a doner. I will be using the crank(as it comes) and rods( as they will be fresher than EVO rods)with ARP bolts.
After doing some research . I may have a reason for the crank walk issue. It is possible that the main cap with the thrusts is not being aligned correctly. Obviously the thrust is in 2 halves. If the cap is not bolted on so that the sides align exactly with the block then any end pressure (as when the clutch is used)is being carried by only one half of the thrust. On the 4G63 engine it is possible to bolt the cap on either slightly fowards or back. This could be overcome by dowling the main caps(http://machv.com/conracmbcadk.html) or knocking the crank both fowards and backwards before tensioning.
Some engines could have had this problem on original assembly and it would be really easy to get it wrong on rebuild.
After doing some research . I may have a reason for the crank walk issue. It is possible that the main cap with the thrusts is not being aligned correctly. Obviously the thrust is in 2 halves. If the cap is not bolted on so that the sides align exactly with the block then any end pressure (as when the clutch is used)is being carried by only one half of the thrust. On the 4G63 engine it is possible to bolt the cap on either slightly fowards or back. This could be overcome by dowling the main caps(http://machv.com/conracmbcadk.html) or knocking the crank both fowards and backwards before tensioning.
Some engines could have had this problem on original assembly and it would be really easy to get it wrong on rebuild.
Street Surgeon
Member
- Joined
- Feb 2, 2006
- Messages
- 85
Most of the stroker kits or shortblocks sold here are all 6bolt motors. They have stronger afterkarmet support, don't suffer from crankwalk, and if you're using the stock rods, the 6bolt rods are a good bit stronger than the 7bolt rods. The crank journals are larger too on the 6bolt crank and thus it can handle larger loads / bigger power.dedant said:
There are several contentions as to why crankwalk occurs, the 7bolt cranks are indeed a bit "softer" than the 6bolt cranks, the 7bolt oil squirters, the feed from the oil sump, the large loads from upgraded pressureplates, improper bearing clearences etc, there are tons of theories but the one thing that's for sure is that it happens to 7bolt motors almost exclusively. Also, as I read your setup I'm inclined just to recommend staying 2.0. You won't be able to rev much past 7500 with a stroker and if your'e sticking to a smaller (16G) turbo then you are REALLY constricting performance through that turbo!Andrewv said:
It is HIGHLY recommended that you leave the crank stock!!! If anything magnaflux the crank, have the journals micropolished and oil galleys cleaned but leave it be. Knife edging, turning, remanufacturing these cranks will significantly weaken them. There are a few places that butcher the crank successfully but it's rare. http://www.ffwdconnection.com/strokernew.shtml is one of them. Cheers.ENGINR said:
Street Surgeon
Member
- Joined
- Feb 2, 2006
- Messages
- 85
Oi, you're going to be experiencing a TON of boost creep unless you get an externally mounted wastegate for your setup then! Good luck!
when the wastgate is to small it can not vent enough gas so the turbo just keeps on spooling.(Boost creeps up)
i use to sell modified Magna intakes to the starion drivers in USA and a lot of them got this problem just from upgrading to the magna intake!
Glen
i use to sell modified Magna intakes to the starion drivers in USA and a lot of them got this problem just from upgrading to the magna intake!
Glen
Boost creep is when the wastegate cant expell the exhaust gasses quickly enough.Andrewv said:
if you're running a huge exhaust, with a smaller wastegate port, it might happen because the wastegate is only around 30mm, whereas external wastegates are much larger, they allow the exhaust gasses out much faster
Rockabilly
Well-Known Member
When building a 2.3 stroker with a Van crank, you need to run the
ballance shafts. I've been in Tony Dav's VR4. Smoothe torque, but I'd
rather have an Auto bolted to it.
ballance shafts. I've been in Tony Dav's VR4. Smoothe torque, but I'd
rather have an Auto bolted to it.
Rockabilly
Well-Known Member
Chris Meek built Tony's & he checked out many stroker kits & info from
the States. I mentioned to Chris I might try a stroker in another motor
& he told me to make sure the block had never spun the ballance shaft
bearings because the ballance shafts are used with strokers.
Just passing on info that Chris told me he read & was advised.
the States. I mentioned to Chris I might try a stroker in another motor
& he told me to make sure the block had never spun the ballance shaft
bearings because the ballance shafts are used with strokers.
Just passing on info that Chris told me he read & was advised.
