4g93 sump gasket?

[VIN18M]

Anyone know if these exist? I called my local supplier and they told me the 93 uses a chemical gasket only?
My current motor in the car definitely has gasket goo sealing the sump but I'm not sure if there's a gasket in there and my forged motor only has gasket goo on it.
If they exist I'd prefer to run a gasket to be safe.

 

[4piknup]

When I pulled my engine down it had no gasket just sealer.
In the gasket kit was a sump gasket. I put it in.

 

[GeoKez]

I make a lot of my own gaskets with an array of different rolls of gasket stuff. That said, ford supply a chemical gasket goo for thier Duratec sumps which I have found to be really good. Don't remember what they call it but google should bring it up.

 

[caged]

The rebuild kits alway have them but I dont think its a factory thing, I never use them and use sealant only. Just don't get in the bad habit of "more is better" they don't need much to be leak free for life.

 

[EVOCPE]

I have a cork gasket here that came in a rebuild kit, but almost everyone I know who has tried them say they have leaked through the cork

 

[khubner1]

The sump just uses liquid forma gasket. Just make sure you clean both surfaces thouroghly

 

[4piknup]

Mine wasnt cork. Was card type. Cork is poo.

3bond is the stuff. Oem for komatsu earthmoving equipment.

I clean surfaces with wire wheel to key the faces

 

[VIN18M]

Thanks guys, both surfaces are already prepped, I'll just have to get some liquid gasket over the weekend.

Appreciate the help.

 

[caged]

Haha and we know komatsu's don't leak oil every where lol. Yea 3 bond is the shizzle! Cork works if it has been soaked in water, its still shit tho.

 

[philsth]

The workshop manual calls for a continuous 4mm bead of sealant around the sump.

Cheers

 

[warbo]

I have never used a solid type gasket on the 4g93 or 4g63 sump, but have used whatever suitable heat resistant sealant was laying around (red, blue, or grey..........it will eventually end up black!)

But here is a tip I learnt from a guy who builds high performance 4g's for a living. Once you have applied the liquid gasket compound to either the sump or the bottom of the engine block and have placed the two together, dont immediately tension the the sump bolts right down all the way. eg. still leave around half a turn on the bolt so the sump can be fully tensioned the next morning if time permits.
Apparently this will enable more of the gasket compound to be retained for sealing purposes, as opposed to squeezing the shit everywhere (and inside the sump) when it is still "wet".

And if you want to do the job properly, then run a tap through the bolt holes in the block prior to applying your sealant to remove any old sealant, and therefore reduce the chance of cross threading a bolt later. just my 2c worth1

 

[evo-gsr]

Good tips there mate.

:thumbsup:

 

[VIN18M]

Yep, was planning on letting it sit for a bit, helps keep a good amount between the two surfaces without it all squeezing out when the bolts are tightened...

 

[GeoKez]

Letting the liquid gaskets cure before tightening is pro tip for sure.

For my current build, I actually used a thin 'fibre' style gasket but used locktite 'No 4' compound on both surfaces. Never done it before but got a tip for someone in the know, so will see how that goes.

 

[SIVART]

there is definitely not meant to be a gasket , its meant to be high temp 3 bond or a equivalent, I used to get asked this a lot at Mitsubishi