4G93T Laser Cut Exhaust Manifold Flange

[EVO-00X]

Hi guys
I have a beautifully made laser cut 4G93T exhaust manifold to head flange made from 10mm steel. Just the perfect thing you need for making a custom made steampipe exhaust manifold for a GSR engine (I got the same but for my 4G63T manifold). One side is not-painted so its ready for welding, the other side is freshly painted in black engine enamel for protection. Very heavy, very strong and very hard to get when you want one! Looking at $50 plus postage :thumbsup:

 

[EVOCPE]

Wow that bring back memories

This was boguht to go onto my old wagon with the 4G93T engine, was gonna make a custom manifold to suit the GT3071R, but disaster struck the wagon before the manifold did

This is a fine piece of work

 

[3zercrowd]

:drool: Tempting.......

Tell me, what exactly is steam pipe, steel wise?
IE grade etc....also it can only be Tigged or can it be Migged?

PM sent....

 

[FRANK-E]

can be done buy tig an mig
steam pipe is a heavy duty thick walled bit of pipe mostly used for high pressure stuff

 

[EVO-00X]

Thats right, its 3mm in wall thickness minimum and much stronger, last longer and handles heat and vibration better than stainless steel manifolds

lol @ your PM. OK I'll answer you here. Basically the beauty of going a custom manifold especially with a 4G93T is so you can place the turbo in whatever location you want (get it away from the damn oil filter housing) and put on a bigger turbo if you want (move it away from the block a bit to get some extra space). Depending on your turbo flange you can buy either a Mitsubishi or Garret style. A T25/28 flange will bolt on a small Garrett, or use a T3/T4 flange for a larger Garrett turbo. You cant go wrong with the more efficient BB turbos and they dont suffer the inherent problems that the Mitsubishi turbos do. Also, when going custom manifold you can position an external wastegate flange off the side of the merge collector wherever you have the most space so there wont be any clearance issues. There's a few places that sell excellent merge collectors online so the parts are out there to make one, you just need to get someone handy with the stick to jig it up for you in your engine bay for best placement and equal runner length, then finish the welds off and have it ceramic coated

 

[3zercrowd]

Sold!

 

[evopwr]

Anyone know where i can get some m.s. merge collectors?

 

[Missile]

Anyone know where i can get some m.s. merge collectors?

FrankE posted this the other week:
http://www.dkne.com.au/turbo-manifold-accessories-collectors-c-90_91.html

dont know if its m/s though? You would assume so from the picture.

Or our friends on ebay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Merg...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

 

[FRANK-E]

when i built a manifold for one of the guys around town i just used normal m/s straight using the same thickness and diametre as the steam pipe

 

[3zercrowd]

You build them then Frankie?

PM an estimated price to me please?

 

[lchilds82]

can you make me one for a vr4 4g63, pm me if so

 

[lozza]

:drool: Tempting.......

Tell me, what exactly is steam pipe, steel wise?
IE grade etc....also it can only be Tigged or can it be Migged?

PM sent....

Technically they are called 'buttweld fittings' - you don't ask for 'steam pipe' (there is no such thing!). You go to a steel supplier (or blackwoods in the west) and you need to specify the nominal bore, schedule and what radius you want Choose long or short radius - long is preferred.

In my case I chose 1.5inch schedule 40 (S40 or standard weight). The 1.5in is a nominal measurement for inside diameter. The schedule refers to the wall thickness - in this case 3.68mm. S40 or STD WT is standard weight and this will be stamped on the fitting. They are also available in EXTRA STRONG (XS) but this isn't necessary.

For straight sections you use ordinary mild steel pipe, again 1.5in S40 or 40mm nominal bore pipe will be fine.

Buttweld fittings are exactly that - designed to be butt welded. They come with a chamfer on each end. Most used are low carbon steel (mild steel) but you can get stainless, duplex etc.

You can weld carbon steel buttweld fittings with anything. TIG is neater but a good welder can do it in stick.