4g93t reassembly

[warbo]

Hi. I am seeking some advice/tips on reassembling a 4g93t in an interstate project car (CC GSR) given the following:
1. The head is a complete unit and does not require any work.
2. The forged pistons and stock conrods have been removed from the block. New forged conrods have been machined and fitted to the existing forged pistons c/w rings.
3. New .50 conrod bearings on order.
4. Have new multi layer metal head gasket, cant remember thickness as engine is interstate, new ARP head studs (running 20 psi), new ARP rod bolts, new timing belt.
5. Engine previously tuned to 200kw until previous owner bent a stock con rod :wacko: after coming off dyno and having a flog around the block.
6. All bores are fine.

I understand how to compress the piston rings and fit the pistons to the crank using lube. Setting the timing is not an issue. Fitting the sump is also not a problem.
However, I am not sure on how to check piston clearance with the head (straight edge/ plasti gauges etc). Also do the ARP conrod and head studs need stretching, eg, tension, undo, and then retension. Im sure I can find tension values on the internet but if someone knows them off the top of their head, then go for it!.

Also after any advice about the spiral clips which usually come with Arias pistons. The spiral clips 19mm x 1mm were missing (pins were previously an interference fit with the stock rods) and I have replaced them with same size internal circlips. Any advice on the block assembly to the head, and spiral clips greatly appreciated. And do the valve recess marks in the top of the piston line up with the intake or exhaust valves?

 

[4piknup]

There is a book by david vizard called engine blueprinting that covers all of that and more.
Engine clearances, ring gaps, plastigauge etc.
I suggest buying it. There is a heap that you wont need, but allof it is good info.

Arrows on piston tops point forward. If there is cutouts on only one side of piston, they should be on intake side as those valves are larger. But the pistons may be made for a ce lancer so the valves are on other side.

Biggest tell tale is the piston pin offset. It should be offset to the thrust side of the engine. On a cc the thrust side is the firewall side. Piston pin should be offset to that side. No offset, doesnt matter what way around. But they are going to rattle at idle.

 

[warbo]

Recess only on 1 side of piston. No arrows. With the naked eye I couldn't see any pin offset. Would u suggest using a copper based or any other type of sealant with the mml head gasket?

 

[4piknup]

Off set wont be much. Maybe 1mm? It will rattle like a bastard if you dont get it right

Personally im a hylomar guy for head gaskets. Plenty of opinions about that tho

 

[BMGTZ]

where is the engine?

 

[khubner1]

http://122.148.77.132/4gt-manuals/CC%20Lancer%20Sedan%20&%20Wagon%20&%20Cyborg%2092-96%20Workshop%20Manual/4G9x%20series%20workshop%20manual%20(includes%204G93T%20DOHC).pdf

4g93 worship manual will tell you deck Clearence and bearing clearances etc

 

[warbo]

Engine is in rural SA ( Yorke Peninsula). Will check offset with digital verniers next time down south. Downloaded pdf workshop book. cheers.

Any ideas on the ARP bolts (head and conrod). Do they need to be "stretched" before final tension?

 

[khubner1]

Follow the specs ARP will give you bundled in the box

Edit: damn iphone

 

[warbo]

Pistons fitted. Anyone have a good clear timing mark diagram for 4g93t DOHC. Engine is fitted with adjustable timing gears, not stock, and same for crank, although can temporarily fit stock crank belt pulley to use factory mark. Also have this copper coat paste shit for the mml head gasket. What do u guys use?

 

[khubner1]

i'm a nothing on head gaskets guy and hylomar on exhaust only

as for timing mark diagram in the link i posted

 

[EVOCPE]

If the surfaces on the head and the block are perfect then I wouldn't use any spray

Copper spray is good stuff, but its a pain in the arse if you need to replace the gasket later, or if you get overspray lol

Hylomar is ok, I only use it on other gaskets

Kyle... you use Hylomar on the exhaust :| why? haha

 

[4piknup]

I use silicone on intake, nothing on mls hg unless im reusing it then hylomar. And nothing on exhaust if new, maybe silicone if reusing.

 

[ted]

Im same a Jack

 

[warbo]

Cheers guys. Timing done after fitting OEM harmonic balancer. Aluminum one already on engine had no marks. Doing final head stud torque then time to put in engine bay.

 

[khubner1]

If the surfaces on the head and the block are perfect then I wouldn't use any spray

Copper spray is good stuff, but its a pain in the arse if you need to replace the gasket later, or if you get overspray lol

Hylomar is ok, I only use it on other gaskets

Kyle... you use Hylomar on the exhaust :| why? haha

reusing old mls turbo gaskets. also on the taxis we use it on the elbow gasket on the first join otherwise i use nothing most gaskets already have a sealing coating on them anyway

 

[4piknup]

Grease on paper gaskets that are near oil

 

[warbo]

Same for turbo oil return to sump gasket? Lost mine so made some out of gasket paper and red rtv'd both sides. Will they leak? I did use new bolts with the correct new alloy washers. Anyway, engine totally finished. Installing tomorrow.

 

[khubner1]

the washers on the return pipe have a rubber grommet insert if your washer don't have this it will likely leak

 

[warbo]

Yeah I have noticed the rubber on some washers on a previous evo I owned, although the current lot of new washers I purchased from local mitsi dealer were just a plain flat alloy washer, so I added my own red rtv goo!

engine assembled and almost complete back in the engine bay, minus a few fluids, wires, and small plumbing bits. Run out of time to finish so will have to finish off another time.

Just one question.......... when I fitted the gearbox (W5M33) type, I noticed that the gearbox output drive shaft was easily removed from the gearbox without pulling down any of the gearbox. Is this normal?????? as I thought there was supposed to be a spring loaded or indented ball which kept it in the box??? :wacko: :wacko: :wacko:

Can the car be run without any risk of damage with the shaft not being "fastened" to the gearbox??

Oh and will try to attach a pic of the project so far.

 

[khubner1]

they run a little retent ball easily lost by some techs i'd recommend not running it with the shaft unsecured as it may work it way out and puch a hole in the transfer/ allow for a leak in the box