5 Stud Conversion + E8 Brembos

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MDK87

Hyundai's can't fly!!
Joined
Dec 12, 2007
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Brisbane
Hey guys,

I am wondering if it is possible to convert a HH Galant VR4 to 5 stud and use Evo 8 brakes all round?

Does anyone know if the above conversion has ever been successfully completed on a HH Galant VR4?
If so could you please direct me to where I could find information on how it is done.

There are a few methods of converting to 5 stud, however keeping in mind the idea is to allow the use of Evo brakes.

Re-drilling the original hubs or swapping them out for DSM ones would net you the 5 stud convo, however the rear evo calipers do not have an integral handbrake mechanism, they use a drum.

How could you combat this? Is it possible to use Evo control arms + hubs or something?

Perhaps I'm barking up the wrong tree and there is a better/easier solution out there when it comes to brake upgrades on all four corners of the Galant.

If so, what's available?

Thanks.
 
Fronts are fairly simple for the conversion

Rears, i'd be looking at the GTO/3000GT set up, as it seems to look like a widened version of the Galant drive train....


I'm currently 5 stud all round, and looking to go twin pots on the rear to match the front 4 pots shortly.....
 
Jay how did you go about your 5 stud conversion? Did you just get your original hubs redrilled?
In the case that you throw the two pots on the rear, will you use an additonal caliper for handbrake (possibly the existing one repositioned?) or will you just use the twin pots and a hydro handbrake?
I'm just worried about seals leaking one day and my car goes rolling haha
I think Ross Cox threw some twin pots onto the rear of his rally VR4, I should ask him how he went about it.

Dre I think you're onto a winner. Dual calipers for the rear sounds like the easiest option rather than messing with an integral drum (although they work great!).
I don't know how I'll go about getting the dimensions for all of the adaptor brackets spot on. Tips anyone?
 
Rockabilly said:
Hi Wae,
The Verada is 160mm between the bolt holes & suits Brembos. The ABS needs modding.
RVR rear has a drum brake handbrake the same as an Evo. I was told the rear goes straight on.
I haven't fitted my brakes. Million other things to do & my brakes are ok with my std boost atm etc
Will have to later to pull it up. And I will be fitting an Evo 6 master cylinder.
I'm a late breaker, so I'll be adding a vacume storage tank like the old GT Falcons used.
When I'm WOT & then need to break hard, my 264/272 cams have robbed me of vacume.
Cheers !
Rockabilly said:
The Verada steering arm hole for the tie rod is 5mm higher at the bottom & the tapered hole faces ^ up, so the RVR tie rod
will be turned upside down. With a lowered RVR, the rack arms will sit ok. With a std height RVR, the rack arms would be
heading down towards the wheel. You don't need to make any brackets for the calipers at all. The ABS mod from memory will
need a bit of lathe cutting towards the bearing to fit the doo-dad inside. The reader doo-dad needs relocating to line up.
I think we can just weld a nut on the side of the hub to line the reader up. A bit of a prick of a job, but no biggy..
Cheers !

Reading the Brembo thread in the RVR section I have a new idea.

For a GVR4, could one use TR front knuckles (modded to fit the ABS sensor correctly) and RVR rear trailing arms and hubs?

The TR front knuckles would allow bolt on fitment of the brembos, whilst at the same time providing a 5 stud conversion.

Fitment of the rear brembos on an RVR seems to be a bolt on affair due to having a similar drum handbrake setup as the CT9A.
So if the rear trailing arms and hubs bolt into the VR4, it would also provide bolt on fitment of the brembos whilst again providing the 5 stud conversion!
brisvr4 was telling me that fitment of the RVR rear diff into VR4 only requires minor fabrication so if needed. If one could swap a complete RVR rear end into the Galant, you wouldn't need to do the 4 bolt rear upgrade either as they run the bigger shafts.

I know this is a long shot and cross compatibility of Mitsubishi parts is a rare thing...it seems too good to be true but is anyone aware of any issues that may arise with performing this work? This is all just based web based info and I haven't been underneath a Mitsi for a while so I could be completely off.

I have both RVR, VR4 and E9 brembos so I'll probably have to do some wrenching and find my own answers but Aldo, I'd appreciate if you could impart some of your wisdom here. :D I know you know both of these cars like the back of your hand :p
 
That's right..
I actually have a KR daily driver in the family. Will measure bolt spacing compared to the Brembos.
There was something else you need to check for compatibility with the VR4 CV shafts. I can't remember if it was diameter of the spline drive or number of splines. Again, I'll just compare with the VR4 shafts. Cheers.
 
MDK87 said:
Jay how did you go about your 5 stud conversion? Did you just get your original hubs redrilled?
In the case that you throw the two pots on the rear, will you use an additonal caliper for handbrake (possibly the existing one repositioned?) or will you just use the twin pots and a hydro handbrake?
I'm just worried about seals leaking one day and my car goes rolling haha
I think Ross Cox threw some twin pots onto the rear of his rally VR4, I should ask him how he went about it.
.....
Its actually easier to make a FWD 5 stud conversion with 4 pot front and 2 pot rears ironically..

Fronts are from TR magna (need to be shaved a tad) running 4 pot GTO calipers with custom brackets

Rears are stock VR4 arms with 1st gen Eclipse stub axle's. will be looking at the GTO rear arms for the twin pot conversion...
 
Thanks Jay....you say that AFTER I bought the evo brakes haha jk

Where do you pick up all of your GTO hardware mate? 3000GT forums?
 
I had a GTO a while ago which i parted out, just kept a few things i knew i might need..
 
I don't know if Verada front hubs suit a GVR4. As far as the tapered hole for the steering arm goes, it
cost me $60 to spark wire erode a reverse taper for the RVR. No adaptors here.
Cheers
 
oh just to confirm only 4Cyl Magna TR-TS etc will fit VR4... V6 has a bigger spline and i think bigger bearing as well..
 
I had a look and measure at u-pullit, also checked out a bunch of service manuals (I compared the TR 4 cylinder to the 6 cylinder specs). It seems to me that the inner axle part of the V6 front CV is the same as the VR4 (not the regular galant) - so I had thought that you could disassemble the CV's and swap the outside of the TR magna axle onto the VR4 axle. Thus you get better and bigger front bearings, 5 studs, plus the 160mm brake ears...

Not sure if this would work, someone who has a spare VR4 front axle could have a bit of a u-pullit trip to find out hehe..
 

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