Anybody familiar with this HSG?

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something_wild

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Joined
Jun 10, 2010
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Melbourne
Hi guys, been a while since I've posted here. Kinda miss my HSG and 'may' consider getting back in one (seems to be a common trend amongst RVR owners lol).

Wondering if any of you know this one for sale atm?

http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/MITSUBISHIRVR1997-15563449

Cheers in advance :)
 
Hmmmm, http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/ermington/cars-vans-utes/1997-mitsubishi-rvr-hypersport-gear-ralliart-evo-wagon/1022870585

Hopefully that works :)
 
First link works for me, The car has been for sale for a fair few months now, pretty sure, about 5 or 6. Can't say much about it as I haven't seen it. It's got the HD clutch and it's a 7 bolt. Who knows what strength big end bearings were put into it. Looks like a nice car. Good interior, good decals, well looked after.
 
Yeah unless you're like me and ask $5k for my well modded HSG (in reflection I sold it too cheap) they never sell quickly. Might have to hit him with an epic low ball lol
Wonder what it's like rust wise....my black one had it hard in the roof :(
 
The car looks mint, but as with anything that has been sitting around for sale for a while he may be willing to offload it.
Mine was advertised for $8k the Dropped to $6990 drive away after being for sale for five months, I paid $5500 drive away, so always worth a haggle.
My mate bought a motorbike the other week, the bloke wanted $2400, he offered him $2200 and the bloke came back with the lowest I can go is $1800!!! Hahaha
You never know your luck :D
 
any pics of yours on here deepsouth?

Something wild, what did you do for the rust in your black one?

The white ones apparently aren't so bad for rust, which I find hard to believe... such a shame these beautiful cars all have car cancer. I'd be knocking off the rear tail lamp and having a look inside with a torch, if you see rust, you know what the rest is like...
 
Yeah I always haggle pretty hard for cars and bikes, unless I feel as though the asking price is already fair or it's 'just' gone on the market and I want that exact model.

Django I did nothing about the roof rust, as far as I know there is nothing you can so...save for a full roof swap...which will prob rust anyway lol. It was bubbling not exposed, so apart from looking a bit dodge, i could live with it. The guy that bought it couldn't care less lol
 
Hmmmmmmmmm
All upgrades on engine but it doesn't say anything about ecu/tuneup side. Why would you upgrade to forged without ecu ready to tune it?
Maybe missed that info?
 
Yeah vr401 I thought the same.... I'm guessing it needed a rebuild and he decided on forged pistons as opposed to standard? I'm just guessing....
And how do we know if it's a 6 or 7 bolt. And if it is a 7 bolt, will the hd clutch be causing, or end up causing crankwalk?
 
The oil sump is the best way of telling if it's a 6 or 7 bolt.

http://www.vfaq.com/...ate-engine.html

There are people divided on why crank walk happens, and probably on here also, so be prepared for a few explained reasons. Basically a clutch will contribute to it happening.

http://www.dsmtuners...xplanation.html

DSM tuners have ALOT of info on Crankwalk.

Who knows when you will get it... really... who knows, that's the scary part about 7 bolts.


while we are on the topic, i thought these were very interesting

http://www.machv.com/conracmbcadk.html
 
I've often wondered about the "mystery" of crankwalk, very good info. Thank you! I have asked the machinist to remove my squirters and block the holes, I read about check valves hanging open and that was enough for me.
It is also interesting to note the "unnamed" piston manufacturer's clearance differences, I hope it wasn't CP! :unsure:
 
When I was reading all this stuff I came across a few threads saying that it's not as common in a 6 bolt, but it does happen to them. "Adrian" on this site reckons he has seen a lot of 7 bolts walk after fitting a HD clutch install.
 
Django I did nothing about the roof rust, as far as I know there is nothing you can so...save for a full roof swap...which will prob rust anyway lol. It was bubbling not exposed, so apart from looking a bit dodge, i could live with it. The guy that bought it couldn't care less lol

Anyone know any parts numbers or prices you can get new skins and ribs? The hardest bit would be replacing the rear piece that's under the skin. Wonder if you can get any of these parts? Maybe just have to find a 92 or 93 model and chop away.
 
I've often wondered about the "mystery" of crankwalk, very good info. Thank you! I have asked the machinist to remove my squirters and block the holes, I read about check valves hanging open and that was enough for me.
It is also interesting to note the "unnamed" piston manufacturer's clearance differences, I hope it wasn't CP! :unsure:

The problem with Crankwalk is lateral so I'm not convinced that piston clearance has anything to do with it. More so I agree with a thread's theory saying it's because the block is not as strong in the 7 bolt as the 6 bolt (they changed material blends) and when torquing the cradle without having a torque plate on the head side of the block, it creates flex when tightening the head on later, creating a lateral 'bend' in essence causing the thrust bearings to fail. Also contributing is the fact the main bearing caps don't have dowels, and when tightening, especially by robots, it's a hit and miss situation where some motors are good and others aren't.
 

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