Anyone have a KJ Verada or AWD Magna?
- Thread starter tharaka
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rob323
Don't drive it, RALLY it!
If you are looking at using the 294 mm discs and the matching callipers, I looked at that when I was upgrading my brakes and the pitch wasn't the same so they wouldn't simply "bolt on". Nothing adaptor brackets can't fix though.
rob323
Don't drive it, RALLY it!
I seem to recall it being more than that, about 4 mm, but that was lying in the dirt measuring things in a wrecking yard. If its only a mil, time to bring out the die grinder and carbide bit :twisted:
rob323
Don't drive it, RALLY it!
tharaka said:
Isn't that just reffering to the overall height of the hat? I thought you were after the pitch between the bolts that hold the calliper to the hub :shock:
rob323
Don't drive it, RALLY it!
The callipers might bolt straight on to a vr4 hub but you would not be able to use the 294 mm disc cause the callipers will be too close to the centre of the hub and will not clear the disc. The magna had a hub with longer legs to space the calliper further out from the centre of the hub to allow a bigger disc to be used.
To use the 294 mm disc, you will need an adaptor bracket to space the calliper further out from the centre of the hub and will need to have the discs redrilled to suit a 4 stud rather than the 5 stud pattern that the magnas are.
When I looked into it, my concern was that the further away from the hub you get, the easier it is for things to flex and this will give you pad knock off at high speed so I dropped the idea, but thats not saying that there isn't a way to make it all rigid enough, just my head started to hurt trying to find it.
To use the 294 mm disc, you will need an adaptor bracket to space the calliper further out from the centre of the hub and will need to have the discs redrilled to suit a 4 stud rather than the 5 stud pattern that the magnas are.
When I looked into it, my concern was that the further away from the hub you get, the easier it is for things to flex and this will give you pad knock off at high speed so I dropped the idea, but thats not saying that there isn't a way to make it all rigid enough, just my head started to hurt trying to find it.
rob323
Don't drive it, RALLY it!
If you want to use bigger discs like the magna ones, then the cheapest way would probably be to reuse your callipers, have brackets made up to relocate them away from the hub more and get the magna discs and redrill them. DBA do the magna discs in the 4000 series as well as standard slotted, but they don't do them undrilled.
The two piece discs alone will probably cost you more than the brackets and the std magna discs combined.
If you get brackets made, make them to suit the late mogel GTO brakes which I think were 330 mm diameter. From memory, all other offsets and bore were the same as the vr4 discs but due to the extra thickness, you might have to shave your pads down to be able to get them in the std two piston callipers.
The two piece discs alone will probably cost you more than the brackets and the std magna discs combined.
If you get brackets made, make them to suit the late mogel GTO brakes which I think were 330 mm diameter. From memory, all other offsets and bore were the same as the vr4 discs but due to the extra thickness, you might have to shave your pads down to be able to get them in the std two piston callipers.
the problem with using large rotors with the same size caliper is, only the outside gets used
but im not sure if that poses a problem or not..?
if i got two piece rotors, the hat would be larger, and the actual pad contact radius would be the same
but im not sure if that poses a problem or not..?
if i got two piece rotors, the hat would be larger, and the actual pad contact radius would be the same
rob323
Don't drive it, RALLY it!
I have wondered about that too, the fact that you are heating up the perimeter of the disc more-so than further towards the centre, but the 330 mm GTO discs use the same pad as the vr4, evo 1-3 and awd magnas do, so I don't think it would matter as much.
Another thing, as you are grabbing the disc further away from the centre, the lever you have on the disc is greater and therefore, less pressure (and therefore less heat) should be needed to effect the same amount of breaking force......but, then, because the speed of the disc face going past the pad has increased as it is further away from the centre, does the increased speed combined with less pressure on the pads give you the same amount of heat anyway? :shock:
I could not find the right people to tell me the correct answers to these things.
Maybe, just wait till Bazeng has tested his system and go for that.
Or, just do what I ended up doing, throw some ferocious pads in with standard slotted rotors and run around on 15" wheels so the brakes don't look too small
Another thing, as you are grabbing the disc further away from the centre, the lever you have on the disc is greater and therefore, less pressure (and therefore less heat) should be needed to effect the same amount of breaking force......but, then, because the speed of the disc face going past the pad has increased as it is further away from the centre, does the increased speed combined with less pressure on the pads give you the same amount of heat anyway? :shock:
I could not find the right people to tell me the correct answers to these things.
Maybe, just wait till Bazeng has tested his system and go for that.
Or, just do what I ended up doing, throw some ferocious pads in with standard slotted rotors and run around on 15" wheels so the brakes don't look too small
That's what I'm doing right now, I'm pretty sure my pads are shit, I can feel it in the pedal when they heat up. EBC Blackstuff.
Theres a bolt on kit you can buy from UAS, for the FTO which is pretty much exactly what barry has, but it ended up being a few hundred $ extra than his.
I have to wait till I get some 17s before upgrading the brakes of course, so I'll just try the pads first, there were some TRUST/GREX ones on ebay, I might give them a go
Theres a bolt on kit you can buy from UAS, for the FTO which is pretty much exactly what barry has, but it ended up being a few hundred $ extra than his.
I have to wait till I get some 17s before upgrading the brakes of course, so I'll just try the pads first, there were some TRUST/GREX ones on ebay, I might give them a go
rob323
Don't drive it, RALLY it!
Find someone with some DS2500's and see if you can borrow them, they work brilliant for me - $250 for the fronts.
rob323
Don't drive it, RALLY it!
I still have the original rear rotors with Lucas pads in the rear, only cause I can't yet afford to spend some money back there just to get a small gain in braking performance. Rather spend the money elsewhere at the moment for bigger gains.
