Auto problem

[vphat]

Hey guys ive got an ssg

Replaced the autobox with a hsg one thinking it that the ssg one had a problem as it took alot of revs to get it going so
Guess what same thing happened it still taking some revs to get it going???

Any gurus knows why?
Is it the ecu?
Is it the tcu?
Am in limp mode forever?

Any help will be great need to get this beast back on the road!

In melbourne btw

 

[BMGTZ]

Has the torque converter ever had the stall point raised?

 

[vphat]

Im not sure

 

[evo-gsr]

helpful input. :w00t:

 

[White Knight]

How many revs are you needing before it moves vphat? And is it the same in reverse?

 

[sssvet]

Auto.
Take off normal in 2nd and 1st,but in D it’s lazy,take off like 3.5k rpm for the car to move, feel like slipping, every others gears are find

 

[Taz]

silly question but youve checked the fluid and/or changed filter and fluid ??

 

[sssvet]

New fluid when auto was fitted, previous owner say auto was working find, so I’m not sure what’s going on with the auto

 

[Taz]

he said it was fine or you can confirm it was working fine?

 

[sssvet]

To me Its 100% slipping in D, but in 2nd n 1st an Revse all 3 are working normal, tryed 2 TCU and still doing same things

 

[bazeng]

Plus 2 different autos.

The only thing in common are:
1. Torque convertor
2. Auto wiring loom
3. Auto cooler

Might have to try and fault find via elimination process.

 

[JPTRIPLEOG]

Auto.
Take off normal in 2nd and 1st,but in D it’s lazy,take off like 3.5k rpm for the car to move, feel like slipping, every others gears are find

RVR autos have a problem where they heat up too much and become sluggy and lose gears, from reading a bit here and there seems to be quite a normal thing in our cars.

Have a read of this
Might help a bit


https://www.google.com.au/amp/s/www.mitsubishi-forums.com/67-expo-rvr-space-runner-forum/29548-mitsubishi-rvr-what-you-should-know.html%3famp=1

 

[Rockabilly]

Hey guys ive got an ssg

Replaced the autobox with a hsg one thinking it that the ssg one had a problem as it took alot of revs to get it going so
Guess what same thing happened it still taking some revs to get it going???

1st in D is just 1st clutches. Physical 1st is 1st & a one way sprag = stronger launch
2nd is 1st & 2nd on together. You say 2nd is ok. So the 2nd band hasn't broken
D 3rd is 1st & 3rd clutch packs on & 4th on as well. Could be 3rd & 4th clutches slipping
You haven't mentioned 4th gear Yet. Does it go into 4th ?
4th gear is the 2nd gear band clamping the barrel & 4th clutches
If 4th doesn't work >
Drain the fluid. Take the side cover off. Remove the 4th pack & inspect it
If shagged, buy 4 clutches. If plates are twisted, buy those 3 plates
Buy Ford 95 fluid. Wet the 4th clutches before puting the 4th pack together
Put 4-5ltr fluid in & start it. Put it through all gears while warming it up idling
Then check the dip stick idling in N. Keep topping it up until it is at hot full
3-4mm over is ok. But not under.
Drive it mild using D & turn 4th on/off mega with no load.
You should be back up & running.
Cheers

Ask for Part# D42111 Magna Tm etc 4 & 6cyl use the same 4th
These are the best Dynax Exedy brand clutches
Don't drive it until the dip stick reads right.
Eg: A GTA bone dry box & convertor takes 10.5ltr of fluid
Those dip sticks will show oil on one side & bone dry on the other
The fluid on the tube wall can fuck you up & kill the clutch packs