Anyone know if there are any auto trans suitable for conversion onto an evo 1/2/3 4g63 whilst keeping it AWD? If not then how about a suitable one for 2WD? And what would be involved in this conversion. I daily drive my evo and constant gear changes in traffic bites. Also I might pick up a quicker 1/4 mile time too!
Automatic Transmission for evo 1/2/3?
- Thread starter moi
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Harden up princess, EVO's are meant to be manuals. 
But if you really insist on converting to an suckomatic, you will need a auto box from a 95+ RVR along with its rear diff as auto's use a different ratio. You will also need its auto ecu. The wiring is pretty straight forward.
There are some guys on this forum who have some pretty serious autos and get very good results from them.
But if you really insist on converting to an suckomatic, you will need a auto box from a 95+ RVR along with its rear diff as auto's use a different ratio. You will also need its auto ecu. The wiring is pretty straight forward.
There are some guys on this forum who have some pretty serious autos and get very good results from them.
Harden up princess, EVO's are meant to be manuals.
LOL!!! I thought the same thing.
Aldo (Rockabilly) would probably be the best person to talk to if you're hardcore about your automatic though.
Rockabilly
Well-Known Member
Moi if you want to talk about Autos, PM me. I own an engineered 92CC GSR 4G63 Auto with a current renewal rego to pay that I might consider selling..
Cheers !
Cheers !
Mate! you have my support on this one..!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Go against the grain!!!
This guy wants to do something different.. fuck you who criticise! Dont be SO narrow minded!
DUH! Evo or GSR = manual = so what!
Evo or GSR usually = 2.0ltr = everyone does that!
But is easy to pick on those who stick their neck out..
Give him the answers he seeks!!
Isnt that what this FORUM is ALL ABOUT!
Go against the grain!!!
This guy wants to do something different.. fuck you who criticise! Dont be SO narrow minded!
DUH! Evo or GSR = manual = so what!
Evo or GSR usually = 2.0ltr = everyone does that!
But is easy to pick on those who stick their neck out..
Give him the answers he seeks!!
Isnt that what this FORUM is ALL ABOUT!
Rockabilly
Well-Known Member
Smutt the little bit of sturing that was made is nothing. A healthy auto isn't regarded as a girls car anymore.
I used to cop the shit of the autos can't handle boost etc about 5yrs back in clubvr4. That's in the past now.
I've broken many Mitsu auto boxs, but because I have a dissabled right leg, I was determined to beef them up.
I left foot brake on a dime & all my cars are autos. Not that I don't like manuals & I can right foot brake also.
I built an auto for Bob in Vic for his VR4 & I got a buzz building it for a bloke with a "lame left leg"
I own an engineered auto CC GSR myself & it has a B+M pro ratchet shifter with an extra lever I added to bypass the ratchet.
Neutral or 1st can be selected quickly with the extra lever & the gears inbetween are the same click feel of a std shifter.
The ratchet lever on the right is for not missing a gear shift. Joey runs a B+M shifter in his Satria also.
I've been runing around with my presure control solenoid blocked off for 6000km now & all my box mods handle it.
In the RVR manual mode, the banging in gears are slightly harder than in auto mode. But I class them both as instant.
You can only feel the difference if you change at wot in both modes. Bob doesn't have a manual mode in his VR4, but he
emails me saying he loves the gears slaming & his wife says he's having an afair with his car. His is runing about 90%
line presure changing while cruising & has 100% at wot gear changes at 6500k. Mine has 100% line presure constantly.
Nothing is breaking & I piss the wave spring off & I run my own 1st gear piston plate so I can downchange to 1st at 40kph.
I run Evo 3 roll stoppers to eliminate the engine & box whiping during gear changes. It is pretty nasty & instant.
Anyone with an auto RVR or VR4 knows how much delay there is changing from 1st to 2nd. Mine is instant in both modes &
if I use auto mode, the change from 1st to 2nd at a mild accell is within a car length. At a moderate accell it will
change later & churp my tyres when it changes to 2nd. Runing the pcs blocked off, but the electrics still hooked up, you
have to be milder on the accell if the law is around, because the churping in 2nd makes you look like you're getting up it.
I prefer the quicker gear engagement because I know the clutches & plates don't have time to slip & wear.
My modded 2nd gear band doesn't break in Joey's or any box I've built, but I've been doing more testing with mine to try &
break it. Joey buckled his 1st gear plates last time out, but his is runing my modded piston plate now to stop it bending.
I'd like to rebuild an EVO 7 GTA auto for someone who wants to up their boost & give it hell. I heard & saw a broken wave
spring from one of them & they are smaller than an RVR one let alone the full width VR4 one. So I'd piss that off & replace
the piston plate to be a max thickness solid plate. Because the GTA has a short 1st gear, the backchanging into 1st is killing
the wave spring. They are only put there to cusion the gear change to make it smoother for the whingers that want it smoothe.
To make an auto handle drag racing or just hard driving, you have to find every weak part that Mitsu made & make it stronger
to handle stickier tyres & 35psi boost like I have run testing & Joey runs that in his Satria. After Joey broke 2 dog boxes, he
asked me if I could build him an auto to handle his HP. I was confident with my auto VR4 at the time, but was a bit nervy to
say yeah sure. I said I'll build him one like mine & a friend Adam wired his manual power feed for his solenoids. When Joey
broke 2 axles & a transfer case, I could wipe the sweat off my forehead. Then he buckled his 1st gear plates last time out &
I knew it was the culpit before he pulled the box out because he had drive in neutral. I was allready runing my modded 1st
gear piston plate in my RVR & my neutral was free spining fine even with mine runing 100% presure & me giving it hell. The
only thing Joey is woried about now is his cvs that sheered off before. I wish him good luck with his new turbo & the mods
that he has planned. If the driveline hangs in there, the Satria could see 7s one day. Not bad for a non stroked 2000CC !
Cheers !
I used to cop the shit of the autos can't handle boost etc about 5yrs back in clubvr4. That's in the past now.
I've broken many Mitsu auto boxs, but because I have a dissabled right leg, I was determined to beef them up.
I left foot brake on a dime & all my cars are autos. Not that I don't like manuals & I can right foot brake also.
I built an auto for Bob in Vic for his VR4 & I got a buzz building it for a bloke with a "lame left leg"
I own an engineered auto CC GSR myself & it has a B+M pro ratchet shifter with an extra lever I added to bypass the ratchet.
Neutral or 1st can be selected quickly with the extra lever & the gears inbetween are the same click feel of a std shifter.
The ratchet lever on the right is for not missing a gear shift. Joey runs a B+M shifter in his Satria also.
I've been runing around with my presure control solenoid blocked off for 6000km now & all my box mods handle it.
In the RVR manual mode, the banging in gears are slightly harder than in auto mode. But I class them both as instant.
You can only feel the difference if you change at wot in both modes. Bob doesn't have a manual mode in his VR4, but he
emails me saying he loves the gears slaming & his wife says he's having an afair with his car. His is runing about 90%
line presure changing while cruising & has 100% at wot gear changes at 6500k. Mine has 100% line presure constantly.
Nothing is breaking & I piss the wave spring off & I run my own 1st gear piston plate so I can downchange to 1st at 40kph.
I run Evo 3 roll stoppers to eliminate the engine & box whiping during gear changes. It is pretty nasty & instant.
Anyone with an auto RVR or VR4 knows how much delay there is changing from 1st to 2nd. Mine is instant in both modes &
if I use auto mode, the change from 1st to 2nd at a mild accell is within a car length. At a moderate accell it will
change later & churp my tyres when it changes to 2nd. Runing the pcs blocked off, but the electrics still hooked up, you
have to be milder on the accell if the law is around, because the churping in 2nd makes you look like you're getting up it.
I prefer the quicker gear engagement because I know the clutches & plates don't have time to slip & wear.
My modded 2nd gear band doesn't break in Joey's or any box I've built, but I've been doing more testing with mine to try &
break it. Joey buckled his 1st gear plates last time out, but his is runing my modded piston plate now to stop it bending.
I'd like to rebuild an EVO 7 GTA auto for someone who wants to up their boost & give it hell. I heard & saw a broken wave
spring from one of them & they are smaller than an RVR one let alone the full width VR4 one. So I'd piss that off & replace
the piston plate to be a max thickness solid plate. Because the GTA has a short 1st gear, the backchanging into 1st is killing
the wave spring. They are only put there to cusion the gear change to make it smoother for the whingers that want it smoothe.
To make an auto handle drag racing or just hard driving, you have to find every weak part that Mitsu made & make it stronger
to handle stickier tyres & 35psi boost like I have run testing & Joey runs that in his Satria. After Joey broke 2 dog boxes, he
asked me if I could build him an auto to handle his HP. I was confident with my auto VR4 at the time, but was a bit nervy to
say yeah sure. I said I'll build him one like mine & a friend Adam wired his manual power feed for his solenoids. When Joey
broke 2 axles & a transfer case, I could wipe the sweat off my forehead. Then he buckled his 1st gear plates last time out &
I knew it was the culpit before he pulled the box out because he had drive in neutral. I was allready runing my modded 1st
gear piston plate in my RVR & my neutral was free spining fine even with mine runing 100% presure & me giving it hell. The
only thing Joey is woried about now is his cvs that sheered off before. I wish him good luck with his new turbo & the mods
that he has planned. If the driveline hangs in there, the Satria could see 7s one day. Not bad for a non stroked 2000CC !
Cheers !
