Bad choice on my part?

[AuSpec Vr4]

Hey

I've seen some people say to stay away from these cam gears? any reason in particular? i have been running these for a year now, the only thing i hate about them is there not true, there ovals really. Thinking of getting rid of them, any suggestions?

Ebay Cam Gears

 

[ONPSI]

Try the gates ones from meek..exact copies and same factory as HKS..

 

[CLuTZ]

Oval?? :blink:

 

[kaotik]

+1 .......oval???!!?

 

[AuSpec Vr4]

I was making it sound bad but there not true circles, you can see the belt move up and down / per rotation, good cam gears are true correct and shouldn't have this problem?

 

[grndsm]

I would go a step farther and suggest that you stay away from ANY adjustable timing belt pulleys!

Any gains people see with these gears come after hours of dyno tuning and are rather modest! People who see the biggest gains are those with poorly indexed cams (dowel pin slightly off). So what they are doing is compensating for poor quality cam shafts!

Another potential problem is the fact that they can and have came apart on people! By the their natures, when you tune these pulleys, you loosen and tweak the settings. One mistake and you have a catastrophic engine failure!

As for Ebay gears, do this test: take a belt and wrap it around the pulley, a few Ebay pulleys that I have tested, started to bind-up after 60-70* of contact. By the time you get to 100-110*, you really have to force the belt teeth into the pulley! Then, do the same test with an OEM pulley… That tells me that these pulleys have slightly different profile, which meant that they will put greater stress on the belt teeth. They will work, but I can see belts lasting only half as long (or less).

BTW, when I tested an older HSK pulley, it behaved like OEM pulley. So this is one of those cases where it might pay to stick with high quality manufacturer.

Personally, I just use quality cams (HKS) and OEM pulleys.

 

[EVO-00X]

Untrue circles would have stretched your timing belt and it will be too loose in certain areas and rotations. When you change the gears, ensure you change the belt too.
Get a brand name timing belt (Not DAYCO as they stretch too easy and the quality IMO is crap).
Stick with Gates T167 or T167R, Greddy, or HKS timing belt as they are a lot stronger and are a tighter precise fit

 

[AuSpec Vr4]

Haha yes but I need a 2.4l timing belt, which hks don't make, only OEM I can find. Someone said that to grind down the tensioner and just use a 2.0l belt? Anyone got a page to do this? I have aftermarket cams going in so my best bet would be to get hks cam gears?

Cheers, Brock

 

[4piknup]

I haven't seen pics of the grinding done, but I have read about it too.
I will be interested with whatever you find, maybe repost it for all of us

 

[AuSpec Vr4]

I haven't seen pics of the grinding done, but I have read about it too.
I will be interested with whatever you find, maybe repost it for all of us

Alright i'll do some research and when i eventually drop the cam gears and camshafts in with a 2.0l kevlar belt, i'll come back with how i did it cheers

 

[AuSpec Vr4]

Alright i'll do some research and when i eventually drop the cam gears and camshafts in with a 2.0l kevlar belt, i'll come back with how i did it cheers

Righto i did some quick research and found on DSMtuners.com

Well, I just thought I would make a quick post to say you can in fact use a 4g63 belt on your 2.4 stroker engine.


I myself just built a 2.4L G4CS Stroker w/ the DOHC 4g63 head bolted on and came to the timing belt.


I had ordered a 4g64 belt, but instead I had in my hand a 4g63 belt as i was sent the incorrect one.


Mind you this is a saturday night, and I do not want to wait another week to get another belt so i try like hell to stretch the belt over the gears and all.


I did actually force it on, although it was hideously tight, so tight when i pulled the pin on the BRAND NEW hydraulic tensioner, it did not move I could put the pin right back in.

BAD

Anyways.. on to the fix.


Take off your swinging arm that your hydraulic tensioner pushes against and take it to the bench grinder.

You can grind about 1/4 inch of material from the bottom pad, and put back on. This makes putting the belt on a good bit easier . On top of that you can time the car w/ the MHI timing belt install kit (to tension the belt correctly) and measure the extension of the pin after 15 mins and everything turned out in spec. after rotating it the 6 times to verify timing, and letting it settle I checked the belt tension by hand above the cam gears to verify it was not obnoxiously tight and it feels the same as the belt on my 2.0 does.

So there you have it a verified case of a 4g63 belt used on a 4g64 with the correct tensions applied to the belt w/ all new parts(not worn out) and everything came back in spec installing the belt by the book(w/ the slight mod).. Now we can easily attain a kevlar belt and stop worrying so much about timing belt failure.

Good Luck!