basic starion 4g63 questions

[mrcyborg]

hey guys,
i cant seem to come up with any decent answers searching.
i wana use an old starion 4g63 motor for my rwd ex lancer. keep it kinda same gen.

anyway, starion g63b motors, they are wide block yes? (makes for easy clutch/gearbox use)

also, the bottom end of the starion blocks, are they pretty much the same as vr4? i have piles of vr4 bits around, and would be so much easier to setup if it was. gear to rebuild it? same bearings and pistons and stuff as vr4?

sorry for probably what are simple questions, but finding it hard to get the answers im after.

 

[mr bender]

yes the starion 4g63 is wide block
yes you can use vr4 pistons in it .
not sure on the bearing tho.

jump on over to the austarion.com and do a search and you will find what you can use!

 

[mrcyborg]

i have been reading the austarion site a bit now, found some good info tonight. wonder is the crank is the same? and rods, i have all this gear siting around. also need to delete the balance shafts as the motor i can get has a seized balance shaft in it currently.

 

[mr bender]

yer pull the balance shaft out. not sure about the rods or crank tho

 

[OLDIE]

The only difference with 6 bolt cranks is long nose or short nose so you need to use the various pulleys that came with each crank.Other than that the mains & big ends are the same .You can use a TC crank in a SOHC block it drops straight in no mods needed

 

[turbovr4]

Vr4 and starion engine parts are interchangeable but a 4g63 motor after 1993 uses different width bearings,they are only 3/4 the width of pre 93 engines and i think 7 bolt cranks.You can tell looking at the motor because the boltup face for the sump on pre 93 is flat.post 93 have a raised surface at each end of the crank, so the sump is half moon shaped at the ends of it face (does that make sense)?.And like oldie said the twin cam crank has a longer journal for the wider belt gears to fit.

 

[mrcyborg]

cheers guys, i know plenty about the vr4 6 bolts and the evo style 7 bolt motors, thats no issue, and i have plenty of parts laying around, just needed to know the interchangablity of the gear so i know what i can and cant use.
plus the price of some of the gen 1 vr4 stuff from the US makes life so much easier!
thanks for the advice guys and if you have anything else let me know.

to start with ill probably stay with the sohc head, but a view to change in the future for sure.

 

[turbovr4]

if you want easy horsepower find a DASH head,single cam 12 valve 148kw.straight bolt on belt goes straight on,can keep starion pistons and even factory computer works.just bolt starion throttle on DASH manifold.only problem is the DASH motor sucks the fuel down.i used to run one in my fathers sigma turbo and would get 14.6 secs on 14psi boost and stock little turbo.

 

[mrcyborg]

i actualy have a dash motor package at work, but its a fwd version and narrow block, i already have the starion wide block gearbox, and it costs to much to change box to something diff. might look into the head.

 

[turbovr4]

as i said efore the head bolts straight on and you dont even need to change pistons,just run an extension radiator hose,i ran one for years befroe i got a vr4 motor.leave the power off the 12valve solonoid.power actually disengages the extra valves,wont rev past 3000rpm.

 

[mrcyborg]

sweet, think i need to check what gearbox i have in the car. its a 2.6lt at the moment, buut it does have a magna head so ya never know i guess. will keep doing some research i think.
cheers!
if i can use the narrow block from work would be sweet as its nice low km very good cond.

 

[OLDIE]

sweet, think i need to check what gearbox i have in the car. its a 2.6lt at the moment, buut it does have a magna head so ya never know i guess. will keep doing some research i think.
cheers!
if i can use the narrow block from work would be sweet as its nice low km very good cond.

If you have a Magna head then you have a 4G54 2.6 ASTRON motor so you can forget about the DASH as well as anything relating to a 63 or 64 as they are completely different

 

[OLDIE]

as i said efore the head bolts straight on and you dont even need to change pistons,just run an extension radiator hose,i ran one for years befroe i got a vr4 motor.leave the power off the 12valve solonoid.power actually disengages the extra valves,wont rev past 3000rpm.

Thats not quite correct .The small inlet valve opems ALL THE TIME and the larger inlet starts opening at app 2000 rpm
From memory the DASH 12 valve put out the same power as the OZ spec VR4 app 148 KW

 

[turbovr4]

oops i forgot to mention which valve is open all the time.it is the small valve,thats why it it wont rev past 3000rpm when you put the power on the solonoid cause 12v on the solonoid disengages the large valve and there is not enough flow on small valve,I tried using the haltech to control the valve but really didn' give me much better driveability or fuel economy.good power for single cam but drivability compared to twin cam is worse.so i just left the power off the solonoid and made 210hp at 12psi boost and link ems computer small intercooler and dash throttle body but running out of fuel.that was in 1994

 

[OLDIE]

oops i forgot to mention which valve is open all the time.it is the small valve,thats why it it wont rev past 3000rpm when you put the power on the solonoid cause 12v on the solonoid disengages the large valve and there is not enough flow on small valve,I tried using the haltech to control the valve but really didn' give me much better driveability or fuel economy.good power for single cam but drivability compared to twin cam is worse.so i just left the power off the solonoid and made 210hp at 12psi boost and link ems computer small intercooler and dash throttle body but running out of fuel.that was in 1994

Don't know why the Haltec wouldn't make the large valve work But it was controlled by the factory EMS which incidently had an overboost function that allowed a short overboost without fuel cut for overtaking etc

 

[turbovr4]

it did but i didn't feel any advantage driving it and the valves started to rattle at changeover point of 2000rpm,the changeover mechanism is a flimsy design and was probably worn out on my motor.valve clearences were right and was quiet but just as the valves start to engage at 2000rpm you would hear a rattle for a second, so i didn't trust it.easier to leave them engaged at the time

 

[OLDIE]

it did but i didn't feel any advantage driving it and the valves started to rattle at changeover point of 2000rpm,the changeover mechanism is a flimsy design and was probably worn out on my motor.valve clearences were right and was quiet but just as the valves start to engage at 2000rpm you would hear a rattle for a second, so i didn't trust it.easier to leave them engaged at the time

Yes if you are not concerned about economy or emissions just leave both inlets on all the time