Battery relocation questions

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doommachine

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Joined
Jan 30, 2006
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Adelaide SA
OK so I've done my research on the regular galant forums, but nothing seems to really suit my scenario.

Need to make an airbox now, the car is just too loud with the pod in the guard. Of course the battery is in the way! So, where to put it.

* I already have a cable that someone laid between the boot and the front of the car (for an amp I believe). Battery in the boot has many advantages but if I ever want to take the car to a track, don't I need a kill switch? Plus I can't find a small enough battery box.

If I was to go down this route, how do I strap it down? The gvr4 site is only marginally helpful in this respect.

* The other option is to mount it in front of the strut tower brace (where the stock air box mounts). This is the easiest as it require the least stuffing around (make a flat plate, attach battery). I have a 360d battery however and it's a little too big to fit there. If I was to go to, say, a motorbike or lawnmower battery, is it possible to work out the cold cranking amps? They only provide the AH rating on them. Theres a century battery that would be pretty much as big as the space available.

* Perhaps theres another place I could put it? Down inside the front guard seems like a good idea, but that's where I want to draw cold air from + I'd have to dismantle the air box and remove the inner guard to take the battery out.. seems like a suck idea in many ways.
 
you can actually get very small very powerful batteries... ive seen people using these for their cars...

http://www.odysseybatteries.com/battery/pc680series.htm

if you put the battery into the boot, you will definatly need to upgrade the cable... by the sounds of things you are only running amp cable... what gauge is it?

you will need some form or isolation switch if you move the battery to the boot anyway... not just for track purposes... and it is best to run say a circuit breaker or fuse in the boot as close to the battery, and then run something similar, or an isolation switch in the engine bay.

i have braced mine how a lot of people have... through the floor... you use a pretty conventional (but you need to find the right size) battery clamp and just use it how you normaly would...

if you move that battery to the boot you will need one with a fairly CCA...
 
The cable that runs to the boot is thicker than the one that goes from the battery to the starter now... dunno the gauge but it is about 12 mm in diameter.

The tiny battery looks good, but no doubt it is expensive... then again time is money and I bet the time taken to mount the current battery in the boot + all the ancilliaries is about the same as forking out for an odyssey.

If it's under the bonnet, I don't really need a dry cell, is there a small non-dry cell that's going to be adequate? (ie a cheaper option :D)

Oh, as far as the CCA, what you're saying is the small battery I have now is too small to be in the boot? So a new battery is necessary either way.. hmmm...
 
doommachine said:
Oh, as far as the CCA, what you're saying is the small battery I have now is too small to be in the boot? So a new battery is necessary either way.. hmmm...

im not saying its too small... im just saying that it very well probably will be too small... when you move the battery to the boot you will need a higher CCA rating because it wilol have to travel down all of that extra cable etc... i managed to kill a stock lancer battery in a few weeks after moving it too the boot... however now i picked up some battery (un-sure of the brand/if its branded... but its direct from a distributor who sells batteries to places who re-label them) for $90 with 660 CCA... havnt had an issue since. well there is a minor problem with buting a lead-acid battery in your boot... it releases hydrogen gas which will in term corrode your boot away... ive never seen a test dfone but id say that if you open up your boot at least once a week/every few days for any particular reason you'll be fine... i will go dry cell battery in the near future... i just didnt have a spare $400 when i was doing it... drycell batteries do not emit the gas, so are therefore 'better'... plus they usually have higher CCA and are usually physically smaller in size

and with the bable that runs to the boot, is the actual copper itself about 12mm wide or is that including insulation??? either way 12mm isnt really too bad... but once again it really will matter what type of cable it is... copper welded cable or whatever they call it is generally better for doing this as it will have less resistance = loss voltage drop
 
Nah with insulation. Probably need to rip it out, it's not quite long enough anyway :roll:

I saw a tiny 16ah battery at supercheap, I might find the part code and see if I can find out more. Honestly I'd like to go to the lengths of boot mounting it but the hassles that go with it are just too much. Although, using a motorbike battery might leave me stranded :D I'll just get an emergency jump kit to go with it.
 
mine is in the boot & i hate it!

it takes up too much room & with the strut brace really limits what i can put in there

i'm seriously thinking about fitting a small battery in the engine bay (like AUSVR4) when i eventually get an airbox
 
Hmm yeah I might make a tray and just get a small battery... I am looking at getting a rear strut brace too, and you're right, it is a pain in the arse. My escort had the battery in the boot, and it was nice under the bonnet but the boot space was screwed.

OK so tiny battery it is! The pc680 is designed for motorbikes.. does this mean I can look at other motorbike batteries?
 
My small 220 cca dry (gell) cell battery cost me just over $150. Hunt around, there are many alternatives to the Odyssey ones.
 
Look at my money sink members ride.

ABout page 9 or 10. There's some fairly upclose shots of my boot.

The battery you see there is DESIGNED to be mounted sideways. And cost about 140 bucks.

It only holds charge for about a week tho. MUST go in a daily or you must physically disconnect the earth. I used a tiny battery because it's being mounted under a strut brace.

The contraption it's mounted on is strong enough to tow the vr4 with. There is NO WAY IN HELL it is ever moving again.
 
Yeah inside the guard is nice but I'm going to use that area for an air intake.. I know I could just buy an odyssey but I'm trying to do it as cheaply as possible, DSM style :D

Brisvr4, thanks for the tip, I'll check them out.
 
can i ask what is it with people putting a battery in their boot?

imo, i hate it, its in the worst position, pointless mod. im sure you engine bay can fit a battery.
 
lefty said:
can i ask what is it with people putting a battery in their boot?

imo, i hate it, its in the worst position, pointless mod. im sure you engine bay can fit a battery.


Its good for when you want an aftermarket intake, to fit- properly....


stock intakes are restictive as!
 

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