seems much more efficient than standard fmic.
however, dry ice is pretty expensive.. would using normal crushed ice yield similar results?
That would also work, i have spoken to others that used a similar system with ice only (cheapo method in an esky with water). They say it works well but doesn't last long.
I also put the ice option into consideration when building this box, but i realised once the liquid gets heat soaked, it takes ages before you can get the heat out (in my old setup i used to get heatsoak). The fastest way to remove the heat after use is to drain and fill it with liquid. I'm expecting the dry ice system to keep the water cooler for longer, hence the dual chamber system. I find that dry ice works best in its own environment. ice works best mixed directly with the water.
But once again, ice in the box will mean draining and refilling.
dry ice, i could just top up the chamber without any hassels.
The great thing with dry ice is that it doesn't leave any residue, so its no cleaning!!
Do you think the results will very different be after you use longer hose going from the boot of your car to the barrel cooler, and after the barrel is exposed to engine heat?
In my opinion, it possibly could, but it shouldn't be much. I already have the lines run under the car and they will be further insulated. I'll be using something like a foam sandwich if you know what i mean. It should stop condensation and also insulate it from the heat of the exhaust and atmosphere.
What does the bazeng box consist of? 4 seperate cores in an aluminium box (or is that real CF??)
It consist of 6 large heat exchangers that were made out of alloy. The heat exchangers themselves have been designed to increase the amount of surface area contact it has with the liquid. Also the liquid tank also has baffles to direct the liquid towards the heat exchanger. There was alot of mucking around and the welder had difficulties welding the box cleanly.
Barry,
Are you planning on running the water through a radiator or similar after its been through the heat exchanger and before it gets back to the dry ice box?
Have you measured any return water temps yet?
I was originally planning to do this, but in my opinion, I think it could have negative effects. It could actually heat the water rather than cool it. But honestly, I'm not sure. If at WOT, the water temps after the barrell increase over ambient, sure I'll be running one. If not, then I wont. I was planning on running a system where i could switch from the dry ice heat exchanger to the water / air heat exchanger. I think if i could get enough of the water cool, it should be fine. But it all depends if its for a drag run or on the street / track. My plan is it have the dry ice cool the water temps down as much as possible, once its down to its minimum, top it up, fire the motor up and drive.
I'll find more once on the dyno.
Of all the different liquids that I have read about being used, the general concenscous is that distilled water is the best. I just wonder if after say 6 months, whether the system will need a good clean out to get rid of any algae or slime that might coat the heat echanger and reduce its efficiency.
I also heard that. BUT I was told a metho/water mix would allow the water temps to drop below 0, whereas water will freeze at zero. Therefore in theory, I could reduce the temps further. But in testing, the time it took me to cool the metho / water down to -15 degree's was about 30 minutes. The liquid began to get gloopy and would flow too well through the barrell.
Also, I dont want anything flammible running through there. I also did some flame tests, a 50 / 50 mix is still quite flammible. something like 40 / 60 didn't light up. Might see how we go next time.
Thanks!, appreciate the compliment!
I'm always trying something different, thats probably why its taking so long to build my car. I guess thats the fun part of modifying!
