Best way to remove Balance Shaft?
- Thread starter dj_konix
- Start date
Help Support 4GTuner:
the 4G61 does not run balance shafts from factory, because it is small enough in capacity (actually bore x stroke) to not have a noticeable harmonic issue.
i run a 4G61 oil pump stubby shaft and blanking bearing in my VR4 engine, not 100% sure if it will work with the RVR motor but i am 95% sure it will.
you can buy everything you need from http://meek.com.au/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=470
the only side effect i had was a massive increase in oil pressure causing a few original gaskets to weep oil. i would recommend porting the oil pressure relief value while you are at it.
i run a 4G61 oil pump stubby shaft and blanking bearing in my VR4 engine, not 100% sure if it will work with the RVR motor but i am 95% sure it will.
you can buy everything you need from http://meek.com.au/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=470
the only side effect i had was a massive increase in oil pressure causing a few original gaskets to weep oil. i would recommend porting the oil pressure relief value while you are at it.
i am not sure where my pic's are i took of my ported housing, i actually ported it a bit far too, i can not build oil pressure after an oil change unless i prime the pump first.
i found a lot a threads and pictures on the dsm forums (dsmtuner/dsmtalk) etc.
i found a lot a threads and pictures on the dsm forums (dsmtuner/dsmtalk) etc.
Shaun, if anything its the first telltale signs your bottom end is worn. Just removing the balance shafts is only a bandaid solution.
I suggest to do a compression test to determine whether you need a bottom end rebuild sooner rather than later.
I suggest to do a compression test to determine whether you need a bottom end rebuild sooner rather than later.
Sorry i have mentioned it other threads, but compression test was done and was incredibly bad (like 20psi), considering it was rebuilt motor we thought there must be issues and thats when we found the balance shaft bearings had failed.
The motor has been completely stripped, block is off being dipped, head is being machined (all good minus valves werent seating correctly) it has acl forged pistons going back in, spool rods, acl head studs, tomei 260 cams, new lifters and full gasket kit.
What i need to figure out is what else i need?
I found a really expensive kit to remove balance shaft but alot of people have no drama with stub axles thats all.
The motor has been completely stripped, block is off being dipped, head is being machined (all good minus valves werent seating correctly) it has acl forged pistons going back in, spool rods, acl head studs, tomei 260 cams, new lifters and full gasket kit.
What i need to figure out is what else i need?
I found a really expensive kit to remove balance shaft but alot of people have no drama with stub axles thats all.
4piknup
master of none
balance shaft seals will have absolutely no bearing on bad compression.
i fill ports with kerosene after lapping valves to verify good job
i fill ports with kerosene after lapping valves to verify good job
The kit from meek is 70 but I'm sure when I did it it was only about 45
You really only need the plug and shaft from mitsu can always get the bearings from acl and think they was cheaper
I used locktight on the bearings just incase they spun from loose fitting etc
Also if you usually have to keep the larger gear at the back for a spacer but if you look on a 4g61 it as a smaller spacer that weights about 1/20th of the original gear
I've got one of those stubs sitting in a oil pump from the 61 still but surprisingly they are cheap from mitsu
The problems with machining them down is the shaft bearings can still seize on the shafts then breaking the small belt and can interfere with the timing belt
9/10 of the 4g63/64 out of L300s that I used to reco either had the belts snapped or the bearings seized
Also with the oil pressure when I did mine years ago I didn't no about porting the housing and I have stuffed 2 of my autometer gauges (0-100 psi) by having over 100psi of pressure in higher rev ranges just need to get 0-150 gauges.
You really only need the plug and shaft from mitsu can always get the bearings from acl and think they was cheaper
I used locktight on the bearings just incase they spun from loose fitting etc
Also if you usually have to keep the larger gear at the back for a spacer but if you look on a 4g61 it as a smaller spacer that weights about 1/20th of the original gear
I've got one of those stubs sitting in a oil pump from the 61 still but surprisingly they are cheap from mitsu
The problems with machining them down is the shaft bearings can still seize on the shafts then breaking the small belt and can interfere with the timing belt
9/10 of the 4g63/64 out of L300s that I used to reco either had the belts snapped or the bearings seized
Also with the oil pressure when I did mine years ago I didn't no about porting the housing and I have stuffed 2 of my autometer gauges (0-100 psi) by having over 100psi of pressure in higher rev ranges just need to get 0-150 gauges.
