Replaced the AFM a little while ago which sorted out my running rich issues and got rid of the black smoke, but under full throttle I can see in the rear view mirror the car's blowing light greyish smoke. Not a great amount, just enough to tick me off. Runs fine, not spluttery or anything, really smooth lately. I know the idle speed controller thingo is stuffed, and that's next on the list. Could just still be running a touch rich because of that? Just after some thoughts please. Oil is Castrol Magnatec 10/40W. Current load has done maybe 3,500kms.
Blowing smoke
- Thread starter AdamD
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Entaran
Well-Known Member
Swap to a 15w40 and see if it still does it.
But yeah, rings maybe? Compression test.
But yeah, rings maybe? Compression test.
andy's-galant
VR4 A'Spec
Mine does the same, when i had qa big leak from the atmo bov mine was blowing a crazy amount of smoke, i also believe my oil is to thin which is same as yours motul 10w-40 full syn and plan on getting what was mention earlier next time i change oil to see if that solves any of my smoke problems which aint that much either but enough to always notice it.
Entaran
Well-Known Member
Everyone I've ever spoken to from Mitsub recommends these cars run 15w50 on the street in Australia.
I went from 10w30 to 15w50, it solved all sorts of valvetrain noise AND stopped a lot of the smoke under boost. So go figure :/
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Nulon make a really really good fully synth 15w50. It's about 60 bucks for 5 litres.
I went from 10w30 to 15w50, it solved all sorts of valvetrain noise AND stopped a lot of the smoke under boost. So go figure :/
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Nulon make a really really good fully synth 15w50. It's about 60 bucks for 5 litres.
It's really funny how everyone says something different for the oil. I've had Mits tell me both 10w40 and 15w50 and another. The mechanic and tuner I've used in the past both say Magnatec 10w40. I'll definitely grab some Nulon 15w50 tomorrow then Lorrie. Best people to ask are usually the ones that try it out themselves and have to live with it, I've found. See how that goes and maybe get a comp test done in the next fortnight if it's no better. Don't want to, was hoping I wasn't going to hear rings or anything like that. Grr.
Cheers for the help guys.
Cheers for the help guys.
Entaran
Well-Known Member
Honest to god, putting 15w50 in my car made it shutup. It used to have the most amazing valvetrain rattle, now it only has a little bit of valvetrain noise (pretty standard on our engines I think). And it was literally from just changing the oil.
I was dead set suprised just how much difference oil really makes. My mechanic has always put 15w40 in my car, but I opted for full synth 15w50.
I was dead set suprised just how much difference oil really makes. My mechanic has always put 15w40 in my car, but I opted for full synth 15w50.
Lorrie, only done about 90kms so far on the Nulon 15w50, and you were absolutely right. Haven't noticed too much difference in valvetrain noise, never really noticed any honestly, but I haven't seen a puff of smoke. Definitely know what I'll be using from now on. Thanks man!
Entaran
Well-Known Member
No prob's mate.
As I said above, it made a pretty significant difference to my car too.
Do yourself a favour, check your oil levels in a week and in 2 weeks and then after a month. Just make sure it's not burning or leaking any, but I think you'll find it's good.
Nulon conveniently comes in 5 litre bottles, so you have some top up spare
EDIT: Where is my +rep?!?! bwahahaha.
As I said above, it made a pretty significant difference to my car too.
Do yourself a favour, check your oil levels in a week and in 2 weeks and then after a month. Just make sure it's not burning or leaking any, but I think you'll find it's good.
Nulon conveniently comes in 5 litre bottles, so you have some top up spare
EDIT: Where is my +rep?!?! bwahahaha.
VR-4Squid
Well-Known Member
10w 40 is good for a new to medium km motor, once your much past 100,000km's (and certainly once you've done 150,000) everythings getting a tad worn, so 15w 50 or 20w 50 is the go.
I wouldn't worry too much though, even when it's burning oil faster than you can top it up it'll still go hard - and people get really annoyed when they can't keep up with a smokey old sh1tbox!
I wouldn't worry too much though, even when it's burning oil faster than you can top it up it'll still go hard - and people get really annoyed when they can't keep up with a smokey old sh1tbox!
It's just approaching 140,000 now so I'll keep that in mind Squid. Don't ever want it to be that smokey old shitbox though. Really annoyed me even a little puff. The black rich smoke was the worst though, I was cleaning the car once a week until I stopped caring.
Took me a second to figure out what you meant too, never noticed that rep thingo. All sorted, seems a fair trade off.
Really annoyed me even a little puff. The black rich smoke was the worst though, I was cleaning the car once a week until I stopped caring.Took me a second to figure out what you meant too, never noticed that rep thingo. All sorted, seems a fair trade off.
penngwyne
Well-Known Member
Cleaning out my PCV valve fixed my oil burning problem. Was very very smokey after idling and on acceleration. (Stopped like magic.)
any issues going from mineral oil to synth when the motor has done alot of k's? i know old diesel mechanics tell you to pick an oil and stick to it.. choping and changing (even brands) is cause for premature engine ware in the big stuff
andy's-galant
VR4 A'Spec
Ive just done another oil change and chucked in some 15w-50 nulon full synthetic and car runs heaps better, that is my choice of oil from now on, ive change and tested quite a few different brands and grades and this is good.
