Brembo caliper paint freshen up

4GTuner

Help Support 4GTuner:

evolutionary

evolutionary

WHT-WPN
Joined
Apr 17, 2005
Messages
310
Location
Melbourne
Well last got out the mag wheel cleaner and the toothbrush to give the wheels a clean and they came up mint . Noticed the paint on the calipers were getting a lil tired and really took away the buzz of how clean the wheels were.

Suggestions, ideas, theories or better still past experience on best possible way to bring them too life?? I want to keep the factory look with the brembo red and white print. I've seen decals advertised or is it better to get a stencil made, paint the calipers on or off, and best recommendation on what paint to use? I'm a painter and I can't see 2pak being the right choice for this application.
 
I'd just get the can of caliper paint, clean the calipers nicely with wax+grease remover and spray them chuck some decals on after they are dry or if you have an oven to bake them so they are nice and dry :)
 
Whatever you do, DO NOT APPLY CLEAR OVER THE PAINT, CLEAR WILL TURN YELLOW ONCE HEATED UP PROPERLY AND RUIN THE JOB.

There's a 20+ page thread on this on EVO-OZ and it's been proven over and over.

The way I did mine was:

1) sand caliper back till all original clear coat has been removed.
2) clean thouroughly with wax and grease remover.
3) apply 2 - 3 light coats with caliper paint. I used VHT "Real Red" which is slighter brighter than the factory colour.
4) leave overnight to dry.
5) apply decals once dry. The ones Meek sell are the ones you want - correct size and font.
6) Enjoy the look of your brand new looking Brembos with a big smile on your face! :)

Note: I did mine while still on the car. Being such a fiddly job I didn't wan't to do it twice either so took extra time prepping everything.

Good Luck.
 
I sanded back with sprayed with the VHT red. More red than the brembo but suits my other red highlights.
I used a heat gun to bake it and decals from ebay I think. 2 years later and still look good.
 
Thanks Tim,

What I have so far is, a can of paint stripper, 2 cans of VHT real red( even though the cap looked burgundy, trial spray confirmed red) and 1 can of hi temp white..... Ordered Meek's decals, but also arranged a set of stencils, hence the white can. Gonna try with the stencil white logo first and use the meek decals if that doesn't work. At a closer look, I actually have clear coat peeling that's why im better to strip paint.

Also got acid based etch primer and adhesion promoter from work. Just deciding now whether to do front/rear pads and uprated brake lines at the same time or just do tedious mask up job and do extras later.


http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/206478-caliper-painting-guide-brembo/
 
evolutionary said:
Thanks Tim,

What I have so far is, a can of paint stripper, 2 cans of VHT real red( even though the cap looked burgundy, trial spray confirmed red) and 1 can of hi temp white..... Ordered Meek's decals, but also arranged a set of stencils, hence the white can. Gonna try with the stencil white logo first and use the meek decals if that doesn't work. At a closer look, I actually have clear coat peeling that's why im better to strip paint.

Also got acid based etch primer and adhesion promoter from work. Just deciding now whether to do front/rear pads and uprated brake lines at the same time or just do tedious mask up job and do extras later.


http://www.skylinesa...g-guide-brembo/
Click to expand...

I would NOT suggest using a paint stripper... get it close to your paint, and it'll melt it. And then, if you don't use it on the entire surface, and remove ALL of it, it'll screw up the new paint too... playing with fire basically, to use that on a casting in a tight space, etc. So long as the paint on there hasn't deglazed/cracked/have an actual paint fault other than fading, I wouldn't be stripping it like that. And even then, bead blasting or abrasive paper is safer.

Acid based etch primer and adhesion promoter... ??? these would likely just be acrylic based products, and not heat rated? unless they specify that they can handle high temps, I wouldn't do it, otherwise the new top coat will come off from underneath ;) ...and you need to neutralise acid based etch primers with a surface primer.... and adhesion primers, I'm guessing you have a plastic adhesion primer??? unless it's just a normal primer that's marketed as an adhesion primer?

I'd suggest following Tim's method. I'd wax and grease it first (so you aren't rubbing contaminants into the existing paint when sanding it), sand it back with a fine grit paper (say 600 wet), wax and grease it again, and spray on caliper paint. Then decals. Done.
 
Paint stripper is not good on the dust seals as they are rubber. If you rebuild them its fine.

Decals I've used Meeks and ebay spec. Both work fine under heat even after track day.

Clear coat, at least 3M 650 degree high heat from a rattle can, caused brownbo effect on my calipers after a track day. There are many threads on evoM and lancer register telling people to leave out the clear coat.

Dupicolour red caliper paint turns out pretty close to the factory brembos but maybe slightly brighter/redder
 
I'm going to try paint my calipers in the next few weeks hopefully, just need to decide what colour.

Been reading this
http://www.rexnet.co...liper-painting/

Basically I'm going to do what f1355spider said. The only thing is whether I should use primer or not before painting. Fairly sure VHT have high temp primer, but I don't think there really is such a thing as "high temp" primer. By the looks of it going from rexnet the Dulux primer is fine, but Duplicolor say you don't have to use a primer, so meh I don't know.

Will not use the clear coat as I don't want it to yellow, however I will mention that I have seen VHT high temp clear at Autobarn.

Also not entirely sure if you have to "bake" the paint or not, I really cbf baking it.
 

Similar threads

deviantek
Pics of my Evo 1 Rally Car + questions (56K beware)
2
Replies
22
Views
3K
DOUGMO
DOUGMO

Latest posts

Back
Top