Cams install.

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HYP04

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Mar 15, 2010
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Quick one. Can you change the cams springs and retainers of a 4g63 without taking the head off? Looking to change to Kelford 272's.
Yes i used the search function.
Thanks in advance.
 
Some guys talk about using air compressorsand fittings and crap to hold the valves while you pull the springs.
I use the idiot proof/ zero dollar way, and use the long alternator bolt to hold the belt tensioner (93t), pull the cams out, then feed some thin rope into the first cylinder, turn engine gently by hand until rope binds against head and valves, holding them shut. Do your business with the springs, chuck some stem seals in too.
I also check that the balancer mark is accurate before dissasembly, alighning the timing marks on the cams as per normal and verifying the balancer position.
 
I ended up buying this tool.

http://www.euroexportinc.com/store/tools/mitsubishi-4g63-valve-spring-compressor.html

Have used it twice and can comfortably confirm its makes the job a thousand times easier/quicker.
 
/\ nice,
mine is similar but way dodgier, lol.

not really best practice to use a magnetic screwdriver as you dont want magnetised collets in your engine, but its hard going without them. a bit of grease holds things in place
 
/\ nice,
mine is similar but way dodgier, lol.

not really best practice to use a magnetic screwdriver as you dont want magnetised collets in your engine, but its hard going without them. a bit of grease holds things in place


I have got one of those euro export tools now Jack.....you can borrow if need. It does work well,but I had a giggle at the suggestion to use a fitting to pump the cylinder up to 100 psi to hold the valves closed and then do the work. I too use the curtain rail string as that cant leak away
 
I don't think the magnetic permeability of (silicon??) steel is so high as to be worried about aligning a field from a few seconds of exposure to a relatively low magnetising force?? Well I hope not..
Or have you experienced otherwise Jack? You never talk shit so now you've kinda got me worried. Lol
I used quite a strong magnet on my collets last week and my lash adjusters have more contact area over the valve tip in the CA18. I guess I'll find out this weekend when I hopefully start her up... :mellow:

On a different note, has anyone ever successfully used compressed air to hold the valve face in while performing the 'head on' valve spring removal?
I've heard of it but I don't trust it enough to try it out. And everyone I know uses the rope trick.
 
The mechanic I found uses compressed air, approx 20-30psi from a leak down tester. Used to work for NA so would assume he knows what he's talking about.And the fitter from the refinery I work does the same, but in all fairness hasnt done a 4G.
 
The collets are pretty soft and magnetize pretty well. But I have never pulled down a engine and seen metal stuck to collets. But it's something my old tafe teacher used to spas out about, and i respected him enough to listen.

You can use air no issues, but I get scared cause if something goes wrong, you going to be pulling the head off to get your valve. And the bloody compressor is noisy. Not worth the risk IMO.
 
I have got one of those euro export tools now Jack.....you can borrow if need. It does work well,but I had a giggle at the suggestion to use a fitting to pump the cylinder up to 100 psi to hold the valves closed and then do the work. I too use the curtain rail string as that cant leak away

Thanks B, I have a leak down tester I made myself ages ago. One of the fittings fits the mitsi cylinders (the old hemi 6 fitting).
Cheers
 
I have an old repco compression tester. It fits the heads but each time you screw it in it fucks the oring...so that needs to be changed.

rope is safer.
 

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