Can I get to the pistons from below?

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soldave

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Mar 15, 2009
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So I'm going to be taking my first look at the engine at the moment with a view to removing piston 3, checking there is no damage to the cylinder wall and getting a replacement thrown in there. However, I've heard conflicting stories about how I can do that. Some have said I can actually go from the bottom if I drop the sump out of it and do other bits. It sounds a little messy, but would mean the head can stay on the engine and would probably require the fewest number of parts to be taken off.

Other opinion is that if I go from the bottom the crank, oil pump pickup & squirters need to come out, and the front case needs to come off to get the crank out, which sounds like an absolute swine (probably one with flu). Question is, which one is correct and how should I be aiming to get the number 3 piston out?

Thanks for any advice you can offer me :)
 
pull the head off aswell mate, it will save time in the long run as you will have less mucking around and more room to move
 
Dumb question, but this is gonna mean timing belt off and back on, right?

Was just wondering if I could do it this way so I might not have to replace the headgasket as I'm just going to (hopefully) throw one piston in to replace the dead one and then work on a full rebuild with my spare engine.
 
Its a head off job so the rings can be compressed and pistons inserted back in from the top of the block once the head is removed. This means the crank and timing cover can stay in place. This method is the least stuffing around provided the bore is in good nick. The sump has to be removed so you can then do the big ends of the rods up.

I'd pay money to see someone try and remove the crank etc from underneath then try to compress the rings and get the pistons in from underneath with the cylinder head still on :D what a long way to go about even trying to do it that way :thumbsdown:
 
The pistons wont even fit throught the bottom of the block will they?

Take the head off dude.

If you want to save money, you could pull the sump off, inspect the cylinder calls, inspect bearing wear and from the top, you can use a special camera for things like this... Alot of hard core shops have these cameras.. They use them on the drag strip after every run to make sure things are holding up.

It's alot of time and money imo. Is there something concerning you with the build?
 
while your at it, why don't you take off every manifold, belt, piece of piping and wiring harness too... at least then you would be continuing with the theme of unnecessary work that will not assist to do what you wantin to do...
kidding...

I have never done it, but i got the theory down, and with our 4G's i wouldnt waste my time trying to acheive what you are with the methods you have described...

Dean said:
why would you want to, you'd only be making it harder for yourself mate.

+1
 
Why even bother doing it in the car just pull engine out do it on a stand and then throw it back in...when loooking for the nearest short cut doesnt always end up that way.

Pull it out, and do it on a stand.
 
I've done pistons in car before. Head comes off with both manifolds attached, sump off and timing belt removed. Pop out the old slugs and rods, one by one marking each rod, and cap as you go it re using the same rods. Throw it all back together in the reverse order. Replace the hg,and timing belt. Its not a great way to rebuild an engine, but if its just going to have assholes thrashed outta it it can do.
 
i am pretty sure they dont even fit out the bottom. i just did an old 4g62 at work, and the pistons wouldnt fit past where the main bearing caps bolt. i have a rvr engine at work with the sump off, i could double check that if need be. they the same bottom end as early evo.
simon.
 

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