cd9a front swaybar setup options

[yeeehah]

ok folks, i need some advice on which way to go for the front swaybar setup on my E1.
I have u-beaut Racefab E1 front lower arms and custom MCA suspension coming, so the way i see it i have these options:

1. Weld swaybar mount to front lower arms as per standard setup.

2. Weld swaybar mount to strut + use swaybar links.

- Please give me pros and cons of using links. I'm thinking option 1 is easier.

- If i decide to go with option 2, anyone know where to get aftermarket swaybar links?
In know whiteline has the universal ones, but i'm unsure which ones and which size etc..

I'm fairly sure you can adapt the evo 1 swaybar to use links, is this correct?
Any info appreciated.

 

[Velocity Racing]

Your MCA's should come with the tabs on them .. Then just run evo 2/3 standard links

 

[evo-gsr]

Im having the same dilemma at the moment with my e4 lca's on my evo.
I dropped the lca's at a mates tonight and hes going to attempt to weld a tab to them as per your option 1.
Will let you know how that goes...also interested to see what other options are suggested.

 

[yeeehah]

Your MCA's should come with the tabs on them .. Then just run evo 2/3 standard links

Ok thanks mate, yes i can get the MCA's made with the tabs. So all e1-3 front swaybar are all the same size and length?

Jamie, yeh that would be good, so you don't have tabs on your struts?
One thing to note, is that if running more caster and factory offset, on full lock your wheel could hit the mounts if going with option 1.

 

[BYBY5L]

sway bars were different i thought, and also just double checking that the ones you've ordered aren't gsr/ Evo1 specific,
unsure of the pro's and cons but one i found is if ya find abit of air the gsr ones strip off the threads after a while, where the Evo 2 3's would try shear through the bolts and would be harder to do

 

[yeeehah]

ok after reading this http://www.4gtuner.com/topic/18310-evo-3-control-arm-questions/
and talking to whiteline, the swaybar mounting holes on e1 points out to the side and the e2/3 swaybar mounitng holes point vertical using the links to strut.

You can't just pair e2/3 swaybar links to an e1 swaybar, I would need all the other bits inc, e2/3 swaybar etc. The handling difference would be 3/5th of a bee's penis considering the work required to convert to links.

I could potentially find universal links that mount horizontal to swaybar one end and vertical to strut the other end, but that may cause other clearance issues. Like this,
http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=W23391

 

[Velocity Racing]

i guess your getting gold series? I doubt Murray would have a Evo 1 specfic version, they would just be designed on Evo 2/3 setup. However might pay to give him a ring. I also wouldnt go welding anything on the strut case, let them do it. My MCA's have the tabs, as do all the other ones ive seen.

Yeah i think you would need to get an evo 2/3 front swaybar to suit

 

[yeeehah]

i guess your getting gold series? I doubt Murray would have a Evo 1 specfic version, they would just be designed on Evo 2/3 setup. However might pay to give him a ring. I also wouldnt go welding anything on the strut case, let them do it. My MCA's have the tabs, as do all the other ones ive seen.

Yeah i think you would need to get an evo 2/3 front swaybar to suit

yep, gettng gold series. Well, i've decided to just stick with welding tabs on the lower arms. Ive been surfin the net at work today and found these useful threads about end links and their benefits. Interesting stuff if can be bothered!

http://mbworld.org/f...-end-links.html

http://forums.nasioc...5&highlight=faq

Are you running end links?
If so, have u had issues?

 

[EVO-00X]

Shit from the top of my head lol :

GSR/EVO I front swaybar is a lot thicker and stronger/ heavier duty than EVO II/III.
GSR/EVO I front swaybar and lower control arms are a lot more bountiful in parts. Even normal CC Lancer use the same lower control arms.
GSR/EVO I front swaybar bolts via links onto the front lower control arm.
GSR/EVO I front lower control arms are strong. It is very rare that you will ever break the tabs off.
GSR/EVO I tie rod ends and front hubs bolt the same way as normal CC Lancers do (e.g. tie rod end under the hub and castle nut on top)
GSR/EVO I use a front hub with the number 14 cast into them.
GSR/EVO I front wheeltrack is: 1450mm

EVO II/III front swaybar is a lot thinner and lighter than GSR/EVO I. It also uses different D-brackets on the k-frame.
EVO II/III front lower control arm does not have a weld on tab on it and in fact does not have the swaybar connect to it at all.
EVO II/III front swaybar uses long sway bar links that bolt onto tabs that are welded onto the strut.
EVO II/III front sway bars and tabs on struts have been known to snap and break off.
EVO II/III tie rod end bolts up upside down to normal CC Lancer/ GSR/ EVO I (eg tie rod end on top of the hub and castle nut underneath - therefore EVO II/III use a different hub than GSR/EVO I)
EVO II/III front hubs have no number cast into it.
EVO II/III front swaybar and suspension setup is a lot rarer and difficult to find replacement parts for.
EVO II/III front wheeltrack is: 1465mm

* It is said that the EVO II/III front suspension and steering setup is a bit more responsive than the earlier GSR/EVO I in STANDARD form.
* There's nothing stopping somebody from modifying their GSR/EVO I front suspension and steering setup for added wheel track and castor by using aftermarket parts (eg. Whiteline front lower control arm castor bushes KCA317X)
* Generally, it is not necessary to change the front swaybar in a GSR/EVO I because they are already quite thick and h/duty. In fact aftermarket suspension suppliers usually only list a part for the rear sway bar (eg. Whiteline BMR56 18mm, or BMR56X 20mm).
* Another thing you can do is use multi-adjusting front strut tops like K-MAC Camber/Caster tops. You can get any angle and castor adjustment with those beauties!
* Comes down to budget, the suspension setup you need for your competition car, and personal choice really.

 

[BYBY5L]

Thats off the top of your head! Wow man your a gun!

 

[EVOCPE]

EVO II/III sway bar setup is identicle to Proton GTi

 

[khubner1]

he's almost a walking encyclopedia

 

[evo-gsr]

I rckon he had that saved and copied and pasted h34r:

 

[4piknup]

EVO II/III sway bar setup is identicle to Proton GTi

Rest of the proton stuff is gsr style (certainly jumbuck) including knuckles but no l4 stamp and no abs sensor holes for jumbuck.

 

[Velocity Racing]

Are you running end links?
If so, have u had issues?

yep run the standard links, swaybar, control arms etc with canister gold series MCA. Ive not ever broken a link, but did snap a swaybar once taking a cut across a big rut. The thing to consider with your MCA is that they are designed and valved with standard (evo 3) swaybars in mind.. take a read of this. http://mcasuspension.com/faq/...... specifically the section about car set up questions!

 

[EVOCPE]

Rest of the proton stuff is gsr style (certainly jumbuck) including knuckles but no l4 stamp and no abs sensor holes for jumbuck.

That's right, the GTi was the only 1 with different sway bar setup

 

[yeeehah]

yep run the standard links, swaybar, control arms etc with canister gold series MCA. Ive not ever broken a link, but did snap a swaybar once taking a cut across a big rut. The thing to consider with your MCA is that they are designed and valved with standard (evo 3) swaybars in mind.. take a read of this. http://mcasuspension.com/faq/...... specifically the section about car set up questions!

Yeh i gave Murray a call, he thought going the standard option was best in my situation. I guess in conclusion, doing an evo2/3 setup is good if you want the extra track width, but there are also other, easier ways of doing that, like umm.., run some spacers, if you had a track car anyway.


EVO-00X thanx for the summary mate, that post should be pinned!

 

[EVO-00X]

EVO II/III sway bar setup is identicle to Proton GTi

Wrong brother... the Proton GTi first appears to be the same as EVO II/III, but even though the GTi's front swaybar connects to the strut via long sway bar links like the EVO II/III, the GTi's tie rod end actually comes in from underneath with the castle nut on top of the hub which is the same way as GSR/EVO/CC Lancer. The GTi is a mixture of both. PS: Proton "TUNED BY LOTUS SUSPENSION' marketing back in the day was a laugh... more like "TUNED BY MITSUBISHI HYBRID PARTS".
btw.... not cut and pasted boys . Well I had to get the part numbers only, but the rest of it is an honest to God curse imprinted in my brain :lol: .

 

[4piknup]

He did say the sway bar setup, nothing mentions the steering knuckles.

Yes you have been cursed with the memory of a passionate enthusiast.

 

[GSRWRC]

Having dealt with both setups in the Mirage, I prefer the CE9A swaybar. Personally I found the car a little less understeerey with the extra roll up front.