charging and running problems

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Lucky13

Lucky13

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Joined
Apr 6, 2013
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83
Location
Bannockburn
Hi guys,

I have currently two problems with my 1994 GSR with 4G63 (EVO3 injectors and ECU) conversion.
problem one. Alternator output only 11 volts, so I grabbed one from the local wrecker.
This one has 31 volt output??? So I went back and got another one fitted it and the same result.
Measures at the B+ of the alternator.
If I measure on the battery I have only 11.9 volt. Voltage drop of 20 volt in the wire from the alternator to the battery. With the old alternator I had just about 1 volt drop.

I measured and checked the wiring, checked the alternator relay ok.
Well the mitsubishi manual doesn't match with the test reading of the relay. I tried measured three different relays and there all the same. (from running cars)

So that Alternator is faulty too??? (Vehicle drove to the wrecker)

Second problem
Engine idles ok,
I set the timing before I discovered the faulty alternator. It may worked at this point because after I fitted the new turbo I was going to check it again but didn't get any reading because of the battery voltage.
It wont rev above 4000 rpm, just miss fires, sounds like its not retarding the ignition or even the timing is wrong caused by the voltage issue.
So I assume if the alternator problem is fixed at the timing adjusted it will be ok, right?

Also the temp gauge is not working anymore tried other sensor, no luck.

I'm over it, nothing works out, just trouble with the built and conversion. its since 4 months ongoing.

Appreciate any help
thanks Dan
 
30 volts???!!!!
ummm... there should only be 13.8 - 14.x volts coming from your alternator to the black 80A fusible link in your main fuse box in the engine bay.
Your battery should only see 13.7 to 15 volts max getting to it. Anything under this then you have a faulty alternator or your power wires to the alternator are crap. Anything above this voltage and then your alternator doesnt have an inbuilt voltage regulator which can cause your wiring to heat up, melt and catch fire. If you're getting 30 volts then the alternator you have isnt regulating the voltage!!!
Youve probably blown fuses or burnt electrics with giving the electronics that much voltage. The 80A fusible link should have blown unless it has been hardwired which is a big no no. Or unless there hasnt been too much current draw demand through it.
You should turn the car on and put your multimeter on 20V setting. Put the red positive wire from your multimeter onto the 80A fusible link in your fusebox. The black negative wire from your multimeter can go to a good ground point. Then double check exactly how much voltage is going through the fusible link and let us know?
 
Also when setting the timing you earth the brown connector on the fire wal and set to 5'btdc no need to rev the engine!
 
EVO-00X said:
30 volts???!!!!
ummm... there should only be 13.8 - 14.x volts coming from your alternator to the black 80A fusible link in your main fuse box in the engine bay.
Your battery should only see 13.7 to 15 volts max getting to it. Anything under this then you have a faulty alternator or your power wires to the alternator are crap. Anything above this voltage and then your alternator doesnt have an inbuilt voltage regulator which can cause your wiring to heat up, melt and catch fire. If you're getting 30 volts then the alternator you have isnt regulating the voltage!!!
Youve probably blown fuses or burnt electrics with giving the electronics that much voltage. The 80A fusible link should have blown unless it has been hardwired which is a big no no. Or unless there hasnt been too much current draw demand through it.
You should turn the car on and put your multimeter on 20V setting. Put the red positive wire from your multimeter onto the 80A fusible link in your fusebox. The black negative wire from your multimeter can go to a good ground point. Then double check exactly how much voltage is going through the fusible link and let us know?
Click to expand...
As it says in the post. At the Fusible link arrive only 11.9 volt. The Voltage drop in the wire saved my fuse and electronic.
I'll pick up another alternator tomorrow and test again.
 
phew... 11.9 volts is safer than 30 volts!! even if it is too low! lol

Before you go out and buy another alternator, check to see that your power cable from the alternator to the fusible link hasn't corroded/ oxidised which can be a cause voltage drop.
So if I were you I would disconnect the battery first so you don't zap yourself. Then grab a length of heavy gauge cable like a 4G/8G power cable you use to power on a stereo amplifier, and crimp an eyelet onto one end of your cable. Attach that eyelet to the same place the thick white wire with the red trace on it goes to your alternator. Leave the existing white wire/red trace on there, but just find a way to add your new cable onto the top of it and use a nut to hold it into position. Then grab the other end of that power cable and make something up so that you can connect it to the fusible link temporarily. Get creative. Just make sure its firm enough not to fall off and earth out.

The aim is to have 2 power cables from the alternator go to the fusible link to see if the voltage level increases with the extra cable.

Oh and just for good measure, put a good earth on the alternator as well. So simply grab a jumper lead cable and put one alligator clip on the body of the alternator somewhere, and the other alligator clip to a good earth point on the engine or chassis.

Now re-cconnect the battery back up and turn the car on and let the engine idle.

Check the fusible link with the multimeter again. If the voltage increases to 13 volts or so, then you can ascertain your oem positive cable from the alternator to the fusible link has corroded and it needs replacing, or you need a better earth. Disconnect your make shift jumper lead from your earth point to see if the voltage stays the same or drops. That will tell you if its an earthing issue or not.

If however the voltage level remains the same at 11 volts when you turned the engine back on, then the alternator is crap.

Good luck with it. You'll get to the bottom of it in no time by testing this out.
 
Problem number one is fixed.
I got a near new alternator, problem still present. Run a new (thicker) wire from the alternator to the fusible link.
Tested great with 14.4 volt.

Problem number two is still present. does not rev above 4000 rpm.
 
What's your plug gap? Sounds like the ol' blowing you spark out trick. Not running platinum plugs by any chance?
 
Temp sensor.
Unplug and connect to earth. Should now read full hot.
If not, check for voltage at the sensor wire.
If not, check for power leaving gauge and entering gauge.
Power should be shared with fuel gauge. So if power enters gauge but doesnt leave, it maybe a stuffed gauge.

I have a dash here if you cant get one closer
 
the iridium I've fitted had .8 gap
adjust gap of the Bosch , fitted, still the same.
I tried other set of coils too.

fuel pressure 3,5 bar idle
rises to 4 bar at about 3000+
 
I have one from a VR4, but the plug is different its square and on my loom is a flat
Is 509 the last digits of the part number? or what does it stands for
 
vr4 one wont work, the "509" is in lager numbers above the e5t..... number.

from memory its KS verada but I could be wrong
 

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