Clutch Issues (Definition of Crank Walk) (ALL FIXED AND BACK)

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GROOV3

Evolution II
Joined
Dec 24, 2008
Messages
258
Location
Adelaide
Hey All

I'm having some issues with my clutch pedal, I few weeks ago it started returning slower and just didnt feel right. Almost like a delayed return.


started to investigate and found my master cylinder was leaking so i've put a brand new PBR item in.

All hooked up adjusted and bleed over 1/2 bottle of fluid through to clear all the old crap out.

The pedal is still the same though.

I'm going to be replacing the slave in a couple weeks (hoping this might be the issue)


any other ideas what it could be?



the clutch it self still works fine its a 5 puk button clutch.

cheers

Andrew
 
Perhaps the slave is leaking air into the system? I replaced mine not long ago and it made a huge difference....

Well worth the $37.50 (from meek)
 
Air in the slave or lines could be the prob, how old is the clutch?

Its not anything to do with the pressure plate fingers?

Can you physically pull the pedal back faster?, if you can, have someone down near the slave and another person yank back on the pedal to see if you hear air hissing anywhere..
 
clutch is only 2-3000kms old

i've checked the line and cant see any leaks etc.


Havnt tried forcing the clutch pedal back so might give that ago.


Will replace the slave soon anyway as i have been eying off the one from meek as its soo much cheaper than a new OEM one.

there was alot of sludge in the master cylinder when i replaced it so maybe there is crap in the slave also.


i'm hopping its nothing to do with the pressure plate or clutch or worse but we will see.
 
yeah i checked when i had the master cylinder out, couldnt see any evidence of cracks or splits etc.

i will replace the slave and see how i go.
 
Might be clutch fork, had this happen about 6 years ago on my Evo. Mine was snapped.

I went through the process last year when having gearbox pulled down and inspected of replacing master and slave cylinder.
 
Give it a good bleed.

I know for a fact that these are a PITA to bleed. Not sure why, BUT it takes a few goes to get all the air out (in my vr4 anyway).

A good little trick for a massive bleed is to run a hose from your drain / bleed nipple back into your clutch master cylinder so you can pump it for AGES without running out of fluid. Make sure its clean fluid though. Also when you bleed, make sure the hose goes UP and not down as the bend in the hose creates a high spot can keep the air up in that bendand not allow it to push out/down.
 
There's 2 types of clutch master cylinders too. The one with the 2 x clamps around the reservoir looks ugly but its the easiest to bleed. The other one with just the reservoir with no clamps on it is a BITCH! lol
 
well just installed the slave, bleed through about 1/4 -1/2 bottle of brakefluid. Also adjusted the mastercylinder as per the video.

i noticed if i have the rod out to far on almost max depress i get a noise of something in the clutch obvisouly touching so i backed it off just so it didnt make this noise.

and the clutch like before works 100% fine on depress and grabing at the on /off point.

still slow return of the pedal.

i think im going to have to take it to a mech to get looked at. I'm out of ideas.


sigh!
 
well in a few weeks the mech is going to look but he seems to think it may be crank walk going by the symptoms :(

fingers crossed its not


all i can say so far is EVO's FTL nothing but trouble and money pits :(
 
GROOV3 said:
well in a few weeks the mech is going to look but he seems to think it may be crank walk going by the symptoms :(

fingers crossed its not


all i can say so far is EVO's FTL nothing but trouble and money pits :(


Dont jump the gun, theres plenty of other things it could be..some things to point out int he case of cranwalk.

# Crankshaft endfloat above 0.5mm
#A clutch that sticks to the floor when cornering right.
# a ticking noise when the cklutch is depressed (harmonic balancer rubbing on timing cover)
#Harmonic balancer moves when clutch is depressed.
#A massive heavy duty siingle plate clutch thats often pushed in when the car is started and always ridden at the lights/hills..a non no!

Look at all these things first before you blame it.
 
Aren't you using an aftermarket crank?

Shouldn't be walking with decent bearings.

Have you replaced/rebuilt the slave/master cylinders yet?
 
crank is just a 4g64 oem crank and appeard to have no wear when putting it in 3000kms ago.

i am using a heavy as single plate brass button

brand new master went in 2 weeks ago

then a brand new slave last week

bleed the absolutle sh!t out of the system

i do get a ticking noise when clutch fully depressed. if adjusted out more the noise is even worse so i adjuted it less. (all adjustments made no differnce)

still slow ish return of pedal when in the drive way but when driving it sometimes sticks and is slower than other times.

clutch it self is grabbing fine, no slips

the friction point sometimes seems to be a bit lower than others.



i will find out in a few weeks when the mech has time to look. im hoping for some sort of clutch or pressure plate failure.

we will see i guess.

:(


i checked the assebly and its fine, the pedal isnt consistant in when it comes back slow or grabs.

it doesnt stay on the floor as such but i can notice it does it more when or just after turning left.
 
well its official the evo has crank walk :(

lame... i have no luck with cars at all.

(bikes are looking very tempting again)
 
i went with a twin plate clutch to reduce the chances of crank walk. only problem is the wife cant drive it anymore so i need an organic clutch again loldo you still have the original crank ?
 
as it been pulled down yet? did you replace the oil squirter check valves when the engine was done?
who did the measureing/machining?
 

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