aapje
Well-Known Member
The clutch in my colt (F5M33 (eclipse gs-t 2nd gen) has always been rather harsh to handle, so I thought to myself let's get a revision kit for the slave cylinder.
I replaced the piston and the rubber gasket and put it on the car again. After bleeding the clutch it will initially be okay, but once driving and pressing the clutch a few times it will get harder and harder to get into gear. Till the point you start hearing the gears grind and it becomes almost impossible to get in gear whatsoever.
I've bled the clutch a few times, pushing through more then enough fluid and no air bubbles come out.
Tonight I adjusted the clutch pedal, instead of at the absolute top the clutch now engages half way or so. (still have some free play left).
But regardless of the adjustments the clutch won't disengage completely. I don't suspect it's a case of not bleeding the clutch since the pedal will stay hard all the time.
The only thing I can think of is the clutch fork in the gearbox itself being bent or something. How else can the clutch not disengage after driving and pressing the clutch pedal a few times? Has anyone ever seen a case of a clutch fork bending?
I'm not exactly filled with joy by the idea that I will have to get the gearbox off in my shed
I checked the firewall where the master cillinder is attached to the clutch pedal but I don't think it's cracked or so. I've read that it could be the case as well.
Anyone has any ideas? I could replace the master cillinder but I don't think it has any problem.
I replaced the piston and the rubber gasket and put it on the car again. After bleeding the clutch it will initially be okay, but once driving and pressing the clutch a few times it will get harder and harder to get into gear. Till the point you start hearing the gears grind and it becomes almost impossible to get in gear whatsoever.
I've bled the clutch a few times, pushing through more then enough fluid and no air bubbles come out.
Tonight I adjusted the clutch pedal, instead of at the absolute top the clutch now engages half way or so. (still have some free play left).
But regardless of the adjustments the clutch won't disengage completely. I don't suspect it's a case of not bleeding the clutch since the pedal will stay hard all the time.
The only thing I can think of is the clutch fork in the gearbox itself being bent or something. How else can the clutch not disengage after driving and pressing the clutch pedal a few times? Has anyone ever seen a case of a clutch fork bending?
I'm not exactly filled with joy by the idea that I will have to get the gearbox off in my shed
I checked the firewall where the master cillinder is attached to the clutch pedal but I don't think it's cracked or so. I've read that it could be the case as well.
Anyone has any ideas? I could replace the master cillinder but I don't think it has any problem.