Clutch Pedal Issues ???

[7zark7]

Hi All,
I'm having some minor problems with my Evo 3's clutch pedal. Every now and again it doesn't quite come back up to it's proper position. When I press it again to try and get it back up or change gears it will disengage the clutch ok but it feels weird and just shouldn't be happening.
I have:
1. Put in a new cluch, pressure plate and bearing (done by RT in Perth).
2. Checked the clutch fork and it is not bent.
3. Checked the pivot point/ball joint for the fork and it is fine.
4. Had the clutch master and slave cylinder re-sleeved twice and pressure tested.
5. Replaced the OEM clutch line with new braided line.
6. Lubricated the pin the connects the clutch pedal with the clutch shaft
7. Used AP Racing 600 brake fluid (same as my brakes more because it's easier to have the same fluid .
8. Bled the line so many times it's not funny and it's fine.
9. Driven at track days and practice days and there is no leaks and no change in the fluid level.

At first I thought the fluid was bypassing the seals but I was assured it wasn't.
Then I thought that there was an issue with the reservoir and that maybe when I was cornering or braking hard that air was somehow getting down into the lower part of the master cylinder. So I have filled the level right to the top and that just couldn't happen.

WTF is going on??
Can someone please help!!

 

[Paul]

Take a look at the spring on on the side of the pedal box. It might not be seated properly on the plastic sleeve which could also be damaged.

Could be broken welds in the pedal box.

 

[BMGTZ]

do you get a creaking sound or a squeak when you push the clutch in?

if yes check the pedal box.......where the master goes through it, they break. also the fire wall could be cracked and that will make kind clicking noise as the clutch is depressed. all these will give a similar problem to what you have mentioned

 

[waynekb]

possible solution

crankwalk, another clutch related symptom is a pedal that wont return after a hard left turn(as quoted from mitsubihi and diamond star performance tuning)

 

[GROOV3]

if it makes you feel better mine is the same.

differnt pressure plate
new line
new master and slave cylinder
adjusted and bled many times.

still only comes out 1/2 way and sticks.


When i had the cylinder out i checked the firewall and it doesnt appear cracked.

i think its just alot of wear in the pedal box (where the slug goes into the pedal its stretched)

i was thinking about rigging up a return spring for mine at some stage.

The spring thats in there currently helps the pedal depress but not return.

 

[DOUGMO]

do you get a creaking sound or a squeak when you push the clutch in?

if yes check the pedal box.......where the master goes through it, they break. also the fire wall could be cracked and that will make kind clicking noise as the clutch is depressed. all these will give a similar problem to what you have mentioned

yep, clutch pedal assembly or firewall.

I had a crack in the firewall on mine and welded on a plate over the top.

I believe some 2s and 3s have the clutch pedal with the return spring on the side too.

 

[EVO-00X]

Watch these: http://www.jackstransmissions.com/pages/tech-articles

 

[SIVART]

Ive seen firewall flex & pedal boxes break after upgraded clutches fitted

 

[lefty]

if it makes you feel better mine is the same.

differnt pressure plate
new line
new master and slave cylinder
adjusted and bled many times.

still only comes out 1/2 way and sticks.


When i had the cylinder out i checked the firewall and it doesnt appear cracked.

i think its just alot of wear in the pedal box (where the slug goes into the pedal its stretched)

i was thinking about rigging up a return spring for mine at some stage.

The spring thats in there currently helps the pedal depress but not return.

From memory a peddle box is like $80 or so, was a while ago that I got mine.

 

[Gianni]

This was very helpfull. I put a 4g63 in my cc coupe with a heavy duty clutch. And it ripped right through the firewall. I don't have a welder so kinda used sickerflex and some metral sheets from bunnings to bear the load. It ended up causing the throw out bearing to be buggered. I still havn't been able to fix it properly

 

[Liberoz]

2. Checked the clutch fork and it is not bent.
3. Checked the pivot point/ball joint for the fork and it is fine.
re: 1&2 was the clutch fork check on a jig with a new one?

You may have been having issue's with your clutch and in effect has been relating to fork or pressure plate finger bent or badly worn in the past!

Was the sleeve on the bell housing that the clutch release bearing slides on ever check or lubricated as per the workshop manual?

Sound like it may be the above? as normally its the last thing to be ever checked or over looked altogether whilst everything else around is check and or replaced

Worth a shot

 

[JETGSR]

there are really only too things, firewall which will probably be the problem or pedal box!

get someone to push the clutch in while you watch in the engine bay!

I bet it flexes about 5 - 8mm and kicks off to the left!

if you are handy you can build a brace that goes from the brake booster,across the master and back to the firewall. much like a brake stopper bracket!

if the firewall doesn't flex then check all the clutch setup from jack transmissions web site.
and if then it still has a problem remove the pedal box and check over!

Mine did exactly the same thing! checked the firewall and I couldn't believe how much it flexed.

some pics of bracket that fixed the clutch problem!