Cooler Thermostat

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Wannabe Racer
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Nov 6, 2005
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I need to replace the thermostat in the car and was going to use a Ralliart one, however they are discontinued and therefore no longer available!

Has anybody had any experience with the Monster Sport thermostats?
 
Some information below which may help people whom search in the future.

Standard - 82deg
Ralliart - 76deg
Monster Sport - 71deg
SARD - 68deg
Cosworth - 68deg
Billion - 65deg

Now I have always been a believer that Ralliart are best positioned to provide the best upgrade parts for the Mitsubishi, however looking from the above claimed figure, would the 6 degree's lower opening really improve consistency in cooling system temps?

I have a SARD thermostat. Have done extremely minimal driving (no long spirited sessions) and honestly did not notice a great deal of difference in the temperature gauge. The mitsi engine get up to temperature quite quickly, this was still the case after fitting the lower temp thermostat.
 
Another one is a Dayco 76'C = part number DT57E
I think mine is a Ralliart 72'C model.... are you sure they only come out in 76'C Tim?
 
Upon review, Ralliart thermostats look like they are 71deg.

On the business of thermostats, E1-9 interchangable?
 
Some information below which may help people whom search in the future.

Standard - 82deg
Ralliart - 76deg
Monster Sport - 71deg
SARD - 68deg
Cosworth - 68deg
Billion - 65deg

Now I have always been a believer that Ralliart are best positioned to provide the best upgrade parts for the Mitsubishi, however looking from the above claimed figure, would the 6 degree's lower opening really improve consistency in cooling system temps?

I have a SARD thermostat. Have done extremely minimal driving (no long spirited sessions) and honestly did not notice a great deal of difference in the temperature gauge. The mitsi engine get up to temperature quite quickly, this was still the case after fitting the lower temp thermostat.

The operating temp won't drop unless your driving hi way speed or change your fan switch on and off temp. I've got a 78deg and the fans switch on at 85 and off at 82.
 
Remember, colder engine = less efficient. Maybe better for power but you'll have to run richer to compensate the cold temp.

You will definitely lose km's power tank.

I went from a cooler tstat back to the standard one because of this.

The cooler tstat would be ideal for racing though. Easy enough to swap for a track day, otherwise on the street i wouldn't do it.

Also keep in mind that your radiator fan switch will not be synchronised to the tstat. The cycle will be something like:

1. Tstat open max @ 70 deg
2. No air flow (when idle) heat up to 87 deg
3. Fan turn on, cool to 82 deg
4. Fan turns off.
5. Start driving, temps drop back to 70 degrees
6. Heat back up to 87 degrees, fan on

So what you'll find is that the engine will constantly be changing afr due to this fluctuation. It will be running slightly richer when cold and ideal when up to temp.

This is my reasoning for why it is not ideal for a street car.

Any other guys that tune experience a similar thing when tuning?

You can get around this with engine temp compensation tables etc but it does make things harder.

To do it properly, get a matching fan switch to suit the new tstat.
 
Just put temp correction above say 75deg to 0. I don't see any fluctuations in AFR. Remember all factory engines are set up for emission output not power. I don't see the point in changing to a cooler thermostat without changing fan switching and as you said if its still on factory temp correction it will be a backwards step. That's why the rally art one was the smallest temp difference.
 
If you look up the stock thermostat for your car for eg tridon, the part number will be something like TTxxx-180. So that part number is a 180*F unit.

Then you look up all their part numbers with the TTxxx- and they often have others that end in 192, 180 or 170 for eg, for the temp ( in degrees F).

I did this for the vr4 and there are lower temp items and hi flow ones avaliable. Probably cheaper than the others.

Find your stock part number, http://www.tridon.co...er/default.aspx

Then look up the various temp items here. http://www.tridon.co...&G=479&P=381955

For example a cc gsr looks like a TT281-180... But u can also get a TT281-170. So it's 10* F cooler (170*F rather than 180*F).

For a vr4 the partis listed as TT301-180 (I thought it was 192 when i looked it up last time), you can get a TT301- in the following temperatures; 192, 185, 180, 170.

Both the GSR (the later evo's also look like they use the same part) and VR4 part numbers are listed as high flow, and you can get the colder temp units. So I'd check out the prices of ordering one of these in from you local parts shop.
 
All good info here which I am doing my best to understand!!!

Given I'm running the Autronic SM4 ECU and can set the fan on/off at any temp I like, I should be able to tell my dyno tuner what thermostat I've installed and he could compensate with the ECU settings?
 
On ecmlink we have coolant offset, so if running a cooler thermostat it compensates, say u run a value of 10*F it will stay in open loop 10*F cooler, start fans 10*C cooler and retard timing due to excessively high coolant temps 10*C cooler.
Maybe on your ecu you can do a similar thing?



I called up supercheap, the high flow thermostats TT281-180 and TT281-170 (GSR and evos) and TT301-170 (VR4) are between 50-55 shipped as they come to WA from over east. Postage may be 5 bucks cheaper if the supplier is in your state.

Id say that a lot cheaper than these other "performance" units, and about the same price as the cheaper shit on ebay. Tridon is a good brand.
 
Yes, Autronic you can set the on value/ off value. Make it work with the thermostat.

Keep in mind stock VR4s fan switch goes via an independent non ecu triggered switch. Not sure about evos.
 

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