Cost for engine machining

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blackers10

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Joined
Nov 15, 2009
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281
Location
Narangba, QLD
Hey all
I am looking at getting an engine built.
what is the average cost people pay for this??

The rods and pistons I'm looking at are
Spool rods(arp bolts) and CP pistons(come with rings etc)

What else is there that I need done

I am fairly mechanically minded so would be happy to give a DIY build a crack but would still need the machining done

just working out if i can afford a build of this caliber or just a stock rebuild...

Thanks
 
hey mate im just about to do a build on my daily GSR with the evo motor in it.
no offence to ppl out there using CP pistons but iv seen them give a few ppl some troubles.

Iv told my mate (that will be building the motor EVO 00X)
that i wanna use JE pistons and eagle rods he's more than happy to use that combo as we all know it works.he has also told me that the machining would cost roughly $800-$1000.the only big thing i think that u will be really forking out for is the rods,pistons,machining and head work but if ur just gunna leave the head stock then it should be a cheapish build.hope it works out for ya

do some sussing out with prices.then you'll know if you can afford it or not

rods piston cost=
balance eliminator kit=
bearings=
arp studs=
gasket=
machining=
 
Basic machine job on the block can be had for $400.

Mine for example - Plateau honed with a torque plate, acid dipped. Head serviced w/bronze valve guides - all up ~$2k


Allow another ~$3k for oil pump, timing belt kit, fluids, head gasket, studs, bearings, water pump, general gaskets, sealants (sump) can of pylomar etc etc.

Got all the tools? Ring compressor, torque wrench, feeler gauges, ring file, timing belt tensioner tools?

Big effort to get everything sorted..
 
what is a balance eliminator kit??
I've never heard of that before

if everything was machined what would I need the ring file and feeler guages for?
 
its a kit you use so you wont have to put the balance shaft back in some ppl leave the balance shafts in some ppl dont its up to you
 
Less things to go wrong. If a balance shaft belt snaps it will more than likely get caught in between your timing belt and something else (not cool)
 
aaa ok

just doesn't make sense to me why they would put it in from factory if its going to cause trouble and is removable with no ill effects..

Thanks for the help guys!
 
blackers10 said:
aaa ok

just doesn't make sense to me why they would put it in from factory if its going to cause trouble and is removable with no ill effects..

Thanks for the help guys!

The balance shafts are factory fitted to reduce/eliminate high frequency vibrations that the motor emits.. Means it's smoother and you don't as many get vibrations through the car. Mitsubishi came. Up with the concept and have sold it to numerous other car makers (including Porsche)

people remove them as you will gain a few kw's as there is less mass to rotate, and it's one less thing that can go wrong.. You may notice a few new vibrations etc that you otherwise didn't have.
 
Only tips I have is to supply your rods & pistons to the machinist, tell them what brand of bearings you want and have them order the bearings to match the final job. It's much safer for them to measure it rather than for you.

Also, you WILL need to get it balanced from crank pulley, crank, clutch, flywheel if you pull the balance shafts out.

Budget between 800 and 1200 dollars for a good amount of machining work. Depends on the condition of your bare block.

Engine overhaul section of service manual
 
yeah guys im talking about the 4g93t none of this 4g63 balony haha

wouldn't a machine shop/engine builder get better prices on most parts like bearings etc??
 
blackers10 said:
yeah guys im talking about the 4g93t none of this 4g63 balony haha

wouldn't a machine shop/engine builder get better prices on most parts like bearings etc??


all these "boys" playing with 93's when will they be men:lol:
 
LOL Frank-e.... I agree!!

FYI - machining my block + bottom end components set me back about 2.5k
Just make sure you go to guys who have a good rep. Don't just go to the cheapest shop. I made that mistake with my first build and it came back with shitty valve guide clearances and oval bores (discovered that when I decided to pull it apart to inspect the damn noise which was a combination of piston to bore clearances being too large and also valve guide clearances either not being k-lined at all or just poor specs).

OR take it to a shop that have previously built engines that have achieved your type of goals. They should have their own set of tricks to get your motor going well. We have to realise that its not just a matter of bolting things together. Lots of special tools are required to assemble the motor if done the right way.
 
the places I'm looking at have good reps so thats no worries
just a matter of raising funds..just means longer without driving it.. just hope it doesn't become a 4 year build HAHA..

I only want a mild build not a 300kw monster or anything(whats the limit(psi and HP capability) on the TD05's anyway?(was told its an evo 3 item but would have to confirm)
 

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