cracked block

[Matthias boldt]

@ trippy
How you can see from outside the engine how much power are inside lol.

I show you some pics in a few hours.

 

[evo-gsr]

I dont think hes asking for pictures to give you a power output figure.... :blink:
He wants to see pictures of the damage caused I would think.

 

[Matthias boldt]

than that was a miss understand from my side,sorry.

and yes the car was driven on street with numberplates,street driven with 2,5bar boost, around 700-750hp fullboost use not all day ;-)

here are some pics from the car
and the cracked block

 

[Matthias boldt]

and after the crack the engine was running but the oilpressure was bad.
all pistons rods are not damage.
the bearings are worn and the crank was slightly bent

 

[GeoKez]

Wow mate, that's an interesting problem.

Do you know anyone good at CAD (for doing engineering drawings)? You might have to design your own full bottom end griddle and then get it laser cut / pressed. I don't ever recall seeing anything "off the shelf" that would help you hold your engine together at those areas.

 

[bazeng]

I can tell you what I have done.

Both my 6 bolt 4g63 and 6 bolt G4CS block.
- 1/2 grout filled.
- stress relieved ( metal laxed )
- kiggly girdle

But not pushing anywhere near 1000hp. yet...

I can't see how you could be damaging the block externally without damaging the bores/ pistons / rods.

What engine mounts are you running?
Where is it cracking?
Since it has happened twice, are the locations consistent?

 

[Matthias boldt]

Enginemounts are selfmade with PU
cracket between cylinder and mains
both engines have the same crack area

last year with 920hp (on dyno) i have no issures with the engine,streetdriven and 1/4 mile 10000km without big defects.

 

[trippy]

4G64 block grout filled will stop this or the full alloy billet block will also stop it they are $8,000.00 au this is what im going for my Pro Car, have you got a dyno sheet and what 1/4 does it do, my mates evo makes 1095whp with a 4G64 block no problem he drives the hell out of it. He ran a 8.85 @ 158mph @ 900hp hes never crack a block and either have I. But the 4G63 do unless they are full of grout.

 

[ENGINR]

To me he should not be asking a Forum about this, to get to this stage he should be able to work it out from trial an error you dont see me asking questions like this, I dont really belive it until i see photos. As anybody building a 1000hp 4G63 motor will have done the research as well as the drive line. I am building a 1000hp Street Evo IX and it is very intense build. you dont just stumble on a 1000hp setup.

No harm in asking, perhaps not everybody has access to the time, funds and resources you may have available to you to learn by "trial and error", so they need to explore alternative options for obtaining the information they need.

In regards to the block cracking - given the block is a cast piece of steel and not really too much else goes into producing it, all I can think is that there may have been internal casting faults when the block was manufactured. It does happen in production volume situations when a particular batch of parts can be faulty purely through a slight change in material and/or process.

 

[4piknup]

I can see why they crack there. The head lifts under the enormous forces, but the bolts wont give any so the block gives up.
Just saying and i know you cant, but if the head bolts extended through the block and were secured below the crank, then it would be far stronger.
I may have had a motorbike engine with that. Ie, some of the head studs were the main studs also.

 

[EVO-00X]

Jack, that's pretty far away from the head... that to me looks like a crack above the oil pump, behind the alloy front case.
Here, look at the attached pic.
Do you think this might be caused by the left hand CV shaft that bolts onto the back of the block twisting from torque?
Matthias... how is your left hand CV shaft bolted to the back of your block?
Do you have the big black airconditioner compressor bracket on the back of the block first, then bolt the CV shaft on? or are you using a 8mm spacer without the airconditioner bracket?

 

[Matthias boldt]

The crack is outside over the ac bracet. I use the stock bracket modyfied for my alternator

 

[EVO-00X]

Ah OK so your alternator fits on the back of the engine block where the air conditioner compressor normally is.

Well if you rule out that bracket then its simply got to be weakness in the block from high boost or the tune wasn't right.
I always thought that it was pretty much rule of thumb that if you're going to run 40psi+ boost then you are mad not to grout your block.
What are you running 3.6 bar? = 2.6 x 14.7psi = 38.22 psi.
Lets assume that's the reason why so on your next build use grout to be safe anyway, especially if youre going to be chasing more boost than what you are currently running.

 

[trippy]

4G64 grout filled

 

[Matthias boldt]

i have build a new (low budget) engine with old engine parts
restrict my tune.for the next weeks of the saison.
was on last weekend on a dyno




this winter i will build a full new engine half filled with griddle...

 

[GeoKez]

Ummmm, can I have your 'low budget' engine with 'old parts' when your finished with it??

Your starting to make me think your a bit of a madman Mattias.............. I will enjoy watching what you get up to. :drool:

 

[bazeng]

Great power curve there

 

[Matthias boldt]

i have found my balls and have tune before two weeks the ecu a lidle bit more agressive with that engine.
without problems and defects at the moment (every day driven)
yesterday i go on a dynojet. here are the result

 

[GeoKez]

Crikey!

 

[khubner1]

Dear sweet Jesus. Could part of the problem be the rpm 8.5k seems high for a g63?