cracked block

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Matthias boldt

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 9, 2011
Messages
148
Location
Germany
Hey guys, i have a EVO 7bolt block and 1000hp street use. My problem is I have crack the block last month between cylinder and mains in half,the engine push the crank to hard upwarts.
After rebuild I have the same problem after a few accelerations on autobahn.
How I can fix the problem ;-)
 
Where to begin?
Who built the motors?
Was it professionally assembled?
Where all parts designed for 1000hp?
Did the timing belt snap? Did internals shoot out of block causing the cracks? Or did it actually just crack in half :s
Did you run the new motor in? Or just go straight to launching?
What was the tube like? How rich/lean? How much boost were you running?
What turbo? Is it still alive?
 
The engine and tune was build myself, engine is still running but have a crack around the block,no rod or piston fail ,all was balanced no cylinder line crack,no crank crack.

Pauter
Wiseco hd
Stock crank
Ported head
Kelford 280cams
Fp3794r turbo
2150ccm fic injectors

Fuel press 3,5 bar
Injector duty 14,5ms @ 8000rpm
Lamda 0,78
Boost 3,6 bar
Rpm 9000
No knock ore every failure,engine runns fine and make a lot of power, its not my first engine I have build and I know what I do.
 
what type of balancer are you using...possible harmonics can cause this failure. can we see some pictures of the damage?

I understand you engine assembly knowledge would be pretty good....and i don't speak your language as well as you speak mine. BUT lets try to figure out the failure cause.

have you installed any sensor or tell tale that monitors heat? has the block been Grouted....grouting is where the cooling galleries are filled with a paste that adds to the strength of of the block to reduce torsional stresses twisting the block under boost.
 
i use hard engine mounts and a new stock balancer.
no block fill, coolant temperature was 73°c and exhaust temp, 900°C end of 4th gear

i think over to build a "Blockversteifungs Platte" are very common to use in germany with vw or opel engines,but its not easy to build one for a 4g63

like this
http://www.akracing-shop.de/images/product_images/info_images/versteifungsplatt_mit_stehbolzen_eingebaut.jpg
 
Is that similar to these http://www.crank-scrapers.com/Mitsubishi_g63b_4g63.html

http://65.110.12.166/showthread.php?t=195915
 
They are crank scrapers, but im sure it should be close to the same concept, just means your sump will hang lower and you need to extend the oil pickup

http://www.crank-scrapers.com/4g63-triple-d.jpg
 
I would be ensuring that on your next block build, get the cylinder bores lined bored properly and also use a mains girdle.
Then I would half fill the water jackets of the block up with grout to make it stronger.
You're making a lot of power (1000hp) with a lot of boost and high rpm.
I understand the car is still street registered yes? if so then only half fill the block maximum. Depends where it cracked.
All other guys with drag cars making 1000hp or so usually fill their blocks up half way or even to the top with grout.
It will increase your engine temperature a bit so you may need to use a water pump block off and an electric water pump instead to work more efficiently.
 
LOL Change to a 4G64 block and Grout fill it and go for a Billet Crank. The 63 block is weaker then the 64 block, How did you tune it have you got Pics of the car and motor with and with out the Damage
 
What do these girdles do?

Stop the block from twisting so I'm lead to believe. The torsional loads applied to the block via the crank and mains on a 1000+hp monster would be immense I guess. I was recommended the Kiggly 6bolt one when it was thought I was going to make some power. But for the time being it just adds weight. When compared to what Matthias linked to, they are worlds apart. Mine really only brings the 6 bolt up to the level of the stock 7 bolt girdle, he needs something like what he linked to.

post-4560-0-78709900-1362963719_thumb.jpg
 
To me he should not be asking a Forum about this, to get to this stage he should be able to work it out from trial an error you dont see me asking questions like this, I dont really belive it until i see photos. As anybody building a 1000hp 4G63 motor will have done the research as well as the drive line. I am building a 1000hp Street Evo IX and it is very intense build. you dont just stumble on a 1000hp setup.
 
Maybe do something different. A custom forged 2.4 crank at 90deg like a quad rotory.
Firing every 90deg just after tdc would rev like F & harmonics would be smootheeee.
The old 2 up, 2 down like a push bike is an unbalanced piece of S. Old tech shit.
Cheers
 

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