Cracked Firewall

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chris123

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 8, 2007
Messages
275
Hey all,

Its been difficult changing gears over the last couple of days, thought i'd have a look for anything obvious over the weekend. Attached image says it all... :|

Does anybody know of a workshop that can fix this (i don't own a welder or know how to weld)? Others have mentioned that welding another layer over the top will strengthen it up, wouldn't this extra layer decrease the travel of the rod into the master cylinder, or would it be negligable? Also would this be welded under the dash or on the engine bay side? Just thinking it would look bloody dodgy in the engine bay.

Cheers,
Chris
 

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do a search mate, very common, there is a template floating around on here somewhere to make a plate to go over the top.

I have done it and it fixed it up a treat
 
this is what mine looks like from the inside
folded hin sheet of metal with the edges folded up for extra strength, welded in place
 

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Also the 2 bolts and pivot points on the back of the clutch pedal suckass and cause the flexing of the firewall - (vote #1 shittiest design flaw in these cars closely followed by #2 roof turret glue lol)
A few of us have fixed ours by tack welding 4 x nuts on the pedal box, then using a flat plate on the end to evenly spread the load over a greater surface area.

evoclutchpedalplate.jpg
 
Cool thanks guys. I do remember seeing the template ages ago but can't seem to find it by doing a search, does anybody have a copy they could upload?


Cheers.
 
Different car but same template (thanks to Neil for the design)
 

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Frankie actually had to fix Angelo's coupe firewall because it had snapped the pedal box and cracked the firewall B.A.D. Check out these pics :rolleyes:
It was welded and and a new pedal box and fix as per Neil's design above was made. The thing never flexed again.
Speaking of cracks, Frankie's got one of his own! :lol:
 

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chris

i have a mig welder......I can tack that brace together for you if you need help with it.


The crack is a bit harder....risky business with the dash and interior in the car. but if you want I can have a go at that too
 
Have someone inside the car with anti-flammable clothing (I used old overalls) or a fire blanket covering the internals whilst the welding is taking place. Also have a spray bottle with water handy just in case ;)
 
Thanks evo-00x, would you happen to have the dimension specified in the attached image? i'm thinking i could use a couple of plates stacked together instead of having to weld the nuts.

Cheers Brian, it would be a big help if you could lend your welding expertise :D. I'll get this plate(s) made up first then get in touch.

Cheers
 

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i got a gsr here if you want to pull pedal box out of so you ar not without car for to long. you can even cut section out of firewall if you want to beef your firewall up and put double skin on it.
i in kenwick

i got a feeling that neils plan need to be reversed because he has a proton and they slightly different to lancer. ie. the studs are in opposite corners.
 
i can confirm proton masters are the same as lancer. i just swaped mine for one from a wira. as none of the lancer wrecks at my local had any in them.
 
i got a gsr here if you want to pull pedal box out of so you ar not without car for to long. you can even cut section out of firewall if you want to beef your firewall up and put double skin on it.
i in kenwick

i got a feeling that neils plan need to be reversed because he has a proton and they slightly different to lancer. ie. the studs are in opposite corners.

Cool thanks, should be able to get away with reusing what i've currently got, but if i hit any issues i'll get in touch.

Soo just to double check if i build the plate onto the pedal i don't need to re enforce the firewall like DOUGMO's picture?

No one has measurements for the distance between the standard pedal plate and the firewall as indicated in my last post? Alternatively if anyone knows what size nut that will just as good.

Thanks alot,
Chris
 

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