Crank Pulley Question

[clone]

okay very simple trying to remove crank pulley to remove the lower timing cover... is there anyway of doing this easily? 4g93p btw

and is the bolt a normal or reverse thread?

let me know

 

[bazeng]

If it is like the 63, you just need to remove the 4 bolts on the pillows surrounding the 1 large bolt. The 1 large bolt holds the crank sprocket to the crankshaft.

 

[DOUGMO]

on 93s the bolt holds the ba;ancer on Baz

 

[khubner1]

get a breaker bar on it and an extension on that find a way to bind the engine and go for gold they're a prick to get off!. (PS YOU WONT NEED A SOCKECT JUST A 1/4" BREAKER) with my old engine the mechanic tried everything right down to useing the enigines own crank momentum to try and shift it. in the end it was a heat/freeze shock bound engine and lot of torque that got it off

 

[4piknup]

brace the bar and tickle the starter. but i have seen them with the 1/2 drive snapped off in the crank, so they can be tight

 

[3zercrowd]

okay very simple trying to remove crank pulley to remove the lower timing cover... is there anyway of doing this easily? 4g93p btw

and is the bolt a normal or reverse thread?

let me know

Hey mate want to me to come over tomorrow and take a look at it?
Engine on stand/pallet or in car?
Get a 6 point 22mm socket on a breaker bar with a cheater bar attached and lock it up against the control arm (engine in car) and just crank the car over in short jerks (so it doesnt start)
If on stand or pallet, do the same but lock the flywheel up with a bracket with 2 holes in it and place one bolt through the hole into the crank OR clutch cover and the other into a bolt hole in the block.

Remember the spec for that centre bolt on the pulley is 190Nm so you need a bit of welly or a bit of progressive torque application!
I think I have some pics somewhere on the site of the holding bracket that I made up for the job.

 

[Smutt]

The 93T crank pulley bolt is (normal) right hand thread.

Removal and installation to the correct torque setting is a hell of a lot easier with the proper tool..

I made up this "crank pulley tool" that stops the crank pulley moving by hitting on the chassis rail (see pic)

The two long dowels fit into the two "factory" holes in the pulley and the centre hole straddles the bolt.

The flat bar tab welded perpendicular to the plate is the stop that touches the chassis rail.

Note: if you have an after market crank pulley from Meek, this removal tool will not work and you will have to resort to the other methods mentioned.

Picture of Pulley is from Meek, I dont have a pic of the factory pulley...

 

[clone]

yeah the engine is out on the ground so your tool would be useless to me :'(

dane i might wanna check out your tool as i need to get this off to replace the timing belt quick smart..


give me a ring dane on my home phone on sunday , ill pm you my phone number as i destroyed my mobile

 

[Smutt]

yeah the engine is out on the ground so your tool would be useless to me :'(

dane i might wanna check out your tool as i need to get this off to replace the timing belt quick smart..


give me a ring dane on my home phone on sunday , ill pm you my phone number as i destroyed my mobile

lol you pm'd me instead of dane...

 

[3zercrowd]

As discussed ive sent you some pics via PM.

Ill hunt down some more info on the boards as i'm sure ive posted pics before!

 

[EvoMayhem]

Hopefully you've got it sorted by now, but just in case I always found this 2 ways useful if you don't have the correct tool.

If the engine is still in the car, just leave it in gear. The crank won't turn then.

If the engine is out, and the clutch and flywheel is off, 2 bolts into the flywheel bolt holes on the crank, and a breaker bar braced through them to stop the crank from turning helps out.

I just had to do the latter last night on my buddies 6G72 engine.

 

[3zercrowd]

Here are some of the pics of what I do to lock up the crank from moving to get the pulleys on/off/ tightened:

 

[EvoMayhem]

That screwdriver trick is exactly what I was meaning.

Definitely a better job with the flywheel stay. Looks good.

 

[aapje]

I just use an airwrench??? 10 seconds jobs.

 

[Liberoz]

yeah the engine is out on the ground so your tool would be useless to me :'(

dane i might wanna check out your tool as i need to get this off to replace the timing belt quick smart..


give me a ring dane on my home phone on sunday , ill pm you my phone number as i destroyed my mobile

I'd also be replacing the tensioner and Idler pulley at the same time before cover goes back on.

 

[3zercrowd]

I just use an airwrench??? 10 seconds jobs.

Of course IF you have one. Most people do but not everyone.
Then there is those stubborn bolts that just need a good cracking with a breaker bar and helper.

 

[4piknup]

Here are some of the pics of what I do to lock up the crank from moving to get the pulleys on/off/ tightened:

the last 2 pics are pretty close to what i do, but i use a 12-14mm spanner in place of the custom bar. i pass a gearbox bolt through the ringy end and put a clutch bolt between the open end part.
though my stand will not accept a engine with the awd flywheel on it, so i popped sump off and put a bit of wood between crank and side of block.

 

[Legume]

I made a few tools for various engines.

This one is for a Toyota 3rz I just completely rebuilt.
The tool srews into the pulley leaving enough room for a socket and breaker through the middle. Then when the crank bolts out the next part is used to pull the pulley off.

When the engine is still in I use 40mm bolt with two nuts. One either side of the flex plate leaving the head of the bolt to stick out enough to jam against a small legnth of wood that pushes against the sump lip.

 

[clone]

sok ended up making a tool also , first one did absolutly nothing but give me a nice shinner , the second one though worked a treat . ill post a pic soon , if you wanna make one i can provide spec. I made it from workshop material so didnt cost me a thing , if you were to get it made im sure it wouldnt cost to much