cyclone plenum guru's.!

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Curcho

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Mar 1, 2006
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Hey all.

any guru's know that if a cyclone mani had stuck/dodgy butterflies, would this rob heaps of power under 4000rpm.? How can i tell if it's knackered.?
With new 16g, exh mani, dump, fmic and big piping, STILL not getting full boost (12psi) untill 4000.! I was hoping that my shagged 14b was the culprit, obviously not.
anyway, any help appreciated.
 
don't the butterfly's open up higher in the rev range to allow more air, have you checked the system for boost leaks etc.
 
Just try cable tieing the butterflies open (ie, you know where the vacuum thing connects on the passenger side of the manifold). That should indicate whether or not it's the butterflies.... or unplug the vacuum line, either way, then they arent doing anything.
 
I'd imagine power to be robbed over 4000rpm if you had a stuck butterfly, not under 4000rpm. As stated, check for air leaks in your intake system especially after fitting new intercooler and piping. By 'big' piping, what size did you go?
 
If you disconnect the vacuum line, the butterflies should close and you should get great low down torque, 12 psi between 3000 and 3500 rpm and power will severely drop off after about 5500 rpm.

If the butterflies are stuck open, the "whack" when the turbo kicks in is more progressive, 12 psi between 3500 and 4000 rpm (especially with a 16G) and full power right through to redline.
 
.

Have done a leak test up to about 16psi and all is good.
Piping size is only 2 1/4, so fairly bigger than stock though not enough to make it laggy.
I will try blocking off the vacumn line.

thanks guys
 
don't know if its really relevant, but i thought i'd mention it anyways. i was advised not to use the cyclone manifold when i put the evo 0 engine in my aus spec car. a guy i was talking to from the States in his own words said "They are a 3 piece unit prone to cracking, and the normal manifolds flow more at high rpm's"

just my 2 pennys worth... :)
 
don't know if its really relevant, but i thought i'd mention it anyways. i was advised not to use the cyclone manifold when i put the evo 0 engine in my aus spec car. a guy i was talking to from the States in his own words said "They are a 3 piece unit prone to cracking, and the normal manifolds flow more at high rpm's"

just my 2 pennys worth... :)
 
don't know if its really relevant, but i thought i'd mention it anyways. i was advised not to use the cyclone manifold when i put the evo 0 engine in my aus spec car. a guy i was talking to from the States in his own words said "They are a 3 piece unit prone to cracking, and the normal manifolds flow more at high rpm's"

just my 2 pennys worth... :)
 
sickvr4 said:
don't know if its really relevant, but i thought i'd mention it anyways. i was advised not to use the cyclone manifold when i put the evo 0 engine in my aus spec car. a guy i was talking to from the States in his own words said "They are a 3 piece unit prone to cracking, and the normal manifolds flow more at high rpm's"

just my 2 pennys worth... :)
Click to expand...
haha
what a tool

yes, the non-cylone flows more than a cylone, by about 5CFM
so the difference is negligible
 
sickvr4 said:
don't know if its really relevant, but i thought i'd mention it anyways. i was advised not to use the cyclone manifold when i put the evo 0 engine in my aus spec car. a guy i was talking to from the States in his own words said "They are a 3 piece unit prone to cracking, and the normal manifolds flow more at high rpm's"

just my 2 pennys worth... :)
Click to expand...
haha
what a tool

yes, the non-cylone flows more than a cylone, by about 5CFM
so the difference is negligible
 
sickvr4 said:
don't know if its really relevant, but i thought i'd mention it anyways. i was advised not to use the cyclone manifold when i put the evo 0 engine in my aus spec car. a guy i was talking to from the States in his own words said "They are a 3 piece unit prone to cracking, and the normal manifolds flow more at high rpm's"

just my 2 pennys worth... :)
Click to expand...
haha
what a tool

yes, the non-cylone flows more than a cylone, by about 5CFM
so the difference is negligible
 
Had a similar problem with my 16G, bit of investigation showed the wastegate wasn't shutting properly (about 2-3mm gap) due to the actuator rod being slightly bent, I spaced the actuator out from the comp cover with some washers so the wastegate was perfectly sealed, and Holy crap - it's like a whole new car!!

Go to thick with the washers and you end up with a big boost spike tho :?
 
Had a similar problem with my 16G, bit of investigation showed the wastegate wasn't shutting properly (about 2-3mm gap) due to the actuator rod being slightly bent, I spaced the actuator out from the comp cover with some washers so the wastegate was perfectly sealed, and Holy crap - it's like a whole new car!!

Go to thick with the washers and you end up with a big boost spike tho :?
 
Had a similar problem with my 16G, bit of investigation showed the wastegate wasn't shutting properly (about 2-3mm gap) due to the actuator rod being slightly bent, I spaced the actuator out from the comp cover with some washers so the wastegate was perfectly sealed, and Holy crap - it's like a whole new car!!

Go to thick with the washers and you end up with a big boost spike tho :?
 

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