Drivetrain upgrade - OZ Suppliers
- Thread starter bazeng
- Start date
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Turbo nutter
Well-Known Member
These are not local but I would think they would fit a VR4 aswell! Just throw em an email I guess. Was just thinking the other day with the sorta power your VR4s pushing and some of the other boys you'd end up in a wall if a driveshaft let go. http://www.maperformance.com/dsm-drivetrain-drive-shafts-and-axles/
At Calder I went for a 5k 15psi launch on munched the tailshaft right where it joins to the joke (unijoint got destroyed).
I have previously bent yokes (splines got twisted) and have also snapped axles so I want something that I don't have to worry about.
I'm thinking of getting a PAR upgraded transfer case output shaft and running a custom tailshaft (2 piece) with a chev powerglide yoke on the end of it. And then going DSS axles...
What do Speedtech in NZ use?
What do APC in QLD use for there cars?
The only issue with DSS is freight. Either I wait months for sea freight or pay premium for air. Of fly over there and bring the stuff over with the flight lol.
I have previously bent yokes (splines got twisted) and have also snapped axles so I want something that I don't have to worry about.
I'm thinking of getting a PAR upgraded transfer case output shaft and running a custom tailshaft (2 piece) with a chev powerglide yoke on the end of it. And then going DSS axles...
What do Speedtech in NZ use?
What do APC in QLD use for there cars?
The only issue with DSS is freight. Either I wait months for sea freight or pay premium for air. Of fly over there and bring the stuff over with the flight lol.
So far I have found:
Shep trans
Xfer case upgrade is probably more ideal than PAR since they do both the gears in the xfercase and they can also supply a driveshaft (tailshaft in AUS) with the correct yoke.
DSS for all the axles (driveshafts in AUS).
All up I think it will cost about 8k for both cars to get the full treatment. Not cheap!!
I think you have to consider an upgrade too Dave. There is nothing worse than breaking parts when you have spent all day preparing for a race.
Group buy anybody?
Shep trans
Xfer case upgrade is probably more ideal than PAR since they do both the gears in the xfercase and they can also supply a driveshaft (tailshaft in AUS) with the correct yoke.
DSS for all the axles (driveshafts in AUS).
All up I think it will cost about 8k for both cars to get the full treatment. Not cheap!!
I think you have to consider an upgrade too Dave. There is nothing worse than breaking parts when you have spent all day preparing for a race.
Group buy anybody?
GVR40
Passion Fingers
from what i have heard in the past APC have used a supra rear end with a custom tailshaft
Turbo nutter
Well-Known Member
Can recall a guy in NZ that had a full rear end setup out of a drag vr4 thats tough as but don't know if anyone would know him or remember the add? It was on Trademe. What you after for that dirty big turbo mate?
trippy
Member
Go Shep trans . As for PAR when i orderd my gear set they told me what i wanted to hear then 6 weeks turned into 8 then 10 and in the end 16 weeks and 5 gear was for a fkn evo 6 not a 3 when it finally got here. So thank fk my race car gear box is ppg. can get the parts over night for that setup.
Baz, welcome to my world 10 years ago 
You need to look at gtafting the ma70 supra rear diff and axles on your car as nothing else will hold up.Trust me, I went through the same thing
for over 10 years or racing the evo smashing every driveline bit available.
You can get a whole ma70 rear sub frame for around 300-500 bucks and get someone down there to make up a cradle for it.
Use the axles hubs and brakes etc off the supra and graft it to fit your car.They have almost the same width from brake rotot to brake rotor(+-5mm)
Should cost around 3k at the most when finished and you will have a bullett proof rear end.
The reason I went toyota is the diff ratios are available to suit what we need.
I did this in my evo and ran it for 2 meets and never broke a thing, when previously I smashed bits every meet.
You need to look at gtafting the ma70 supra rear diff and axles on your car as nothing else will hold up.Trust me, I went through the same thing
for over 10 years or racing the evo smashing every driveline bit available.
You can get a whole ma70 rear sub frame for around 300-500 bucks and get someone down there to make up a cradle for it.
Use the axles hubs and brakes etc off the supra and graft it to fit your car.They have almost the same width from brake rotot to brake rotor(+-5mm)
Should cost around 3k at the most when finished and you will have a bullett proof rear end.
The reason I went toyota is the diff ratios are available to suit what we need.
I did this in my evo and ran it for 2 meets and never broke a thing, when previously I smashed bits every meet.
CLuTZ
Diamonds are forever....
Hey Rob,
What do you recommend for a solid rear setup? Jumbuck, Libero, Cyborg etc. Hilux?
What do you recommend for a solid rear setup? Jumbuck, Libero, Cyborg etc. Hilux?
trippy
Member
That was my next step i was about to do with Robs expert help but sold the car. I was going to order the 800hp rear drive shaft up grade from the drive shaft shop until i spoke to Rob glad i didn't as the diff would get ripped out before they broke and the shafts delivered were 2k. What transfer case are you running i nilly ordered a par one with my gear set but i would of gone a Shep one if i still had the car. What diffs are you running. ( on my 9 im about to start a build thread for once so everyone can see what im up to, might be gunning for a 10 just one and get kicked out)
I looked through the DSS site and fuk me, you gotta be pretty serious to go that route and keep going afterwards to get your money's worth out of it all
There's a small fortune involved just to change the front and rear driveshafts, then a tailshaft... and you still have to upgrade to the Sheptrans transfer case :blink:
I suppose if its breaking you have to pull out the big guns.
Rob's Supra upgrade sounds reasonable and cost effective. Easy to get parts for too.
There's a small fortune involved just to change the front and rear driveshafts, then a tailshaft... and you still have to upgrade to the Sheptrans transfer case :blink:
I suppose if its breaking you have to pull out the big guns.
Rob's Supra upgrade sounds reasonable and cost effective. Easy to get parts for too.
doommachine
Well-Known Member
MA 70's have really tough mechanical LSD's.
Also the cressida has a very similar rear subframe, cressida grande has same LSD as the MA70 supra. I believe the supra has thicker axles however, but if you get a non lsd ma70 diff, or a blown diff and subframe, its easy enough to get a centre from a cressy.
http://www.jzx100.com/forum/topic/10334-white-s1-jzx100-chaser-wrecking/
Could possibly get a chaser subframe cheap, no diff housing but auto housing from someone doing a torsen swap + cressida diff.
Dunno about the jzx subframe size but the axles are huge compared to the galant axles.
Also the cressida has a very similar rear subframe, cressida grande has same LSD as the MA70 supra. I believe the supra has thicker axles however, but if you get a non lsd ma70 diff, or a blown diff and subframe, its easy enough to get a centre from a cressy.
http://www.jzx100.com/forum/topic/10334-white-s1-jzx100-chaser-wrecking/
Could possibly get a chaser subframe cheap, no diff housing but auto housing from someone doing a torsen swap + cressida diff.
Dunno about the jzx subframe size but the axles are huge compared to the galant axles.
Baz, welcome to my world 10 years ago
You need to look at gtafting the ma70 supra rear diff and axles on your car as nothing else will hold up.Trust me, I went through the same thing
for over 10 years or racing the evo smashing every driveline bit available.
You can get a whole ma70 rear sub frame for around 300-500 bucks and get someone down there to make up a cradle for it.
Use the axles hubs and brakes etc off the supra and graft it to fit your car.They have almost the same width from brake rotot to brake rotor(+-5mm)
Should cost around 3k at the most when finished and you will have a bullett proof rear end.
The reason I went toyota is the diff ratios are available to suit what we need.
I did this in my evo and ran it for 2 meets and never broke a thing, when previously I smashed bits every meet.
doommachine
Well-Known Member
Ah also on the topic of hilux diffs, you can get detroit lockers for hilux diffs
