ecu chip
- Thread starter mico
- Start date
Help Support 4GTuner:
thanks mate, i'll look it up tomorrow, also does anyone here in adelaide specialize on vr4's , having problems with car stalling when slowing down, losing brakes, pretty scary this arvo when i was driving it.... thanks again ..
Entaran
Well-Known Member
Atmo BOV?
Dean
Member
Can you whack your location in your User CP for us please mate?
ta.
yeh, have you changed you're BOV recently?
ta.
yeh, have you changed you're BOV recently?
Entaran
Well-Known Member
Again, Atmo BOV fitted?
+1! It could be somehting as simple as this.Entaran said:
I have an adjustable bov and when its set to fully atmo it will idle all erratic if you stop after it has vented and want to stall for a few seconds, unless i throttled it.
Alot of air has been dumped by the atmo bov so it will run really rich while its tryin to idle for a few seconds. If you plumb it back the air thats been measured by the air flow meter is still in the intake tract after the afm so its measurements arnt up the shit.
Entaran
Well-Known Member
if your atmo vents completely, you'll also momentarily lose brakes as the vac pressure in the engine is vented.
stock blow off valve, will check for any loose hoses tomorrow, still stalling today, very annoying, if i can't work it out, will take it to mike dale next week, had a chat with him already regarding future mods, trying to get the car a1 condition first before modding it.
Lorrie, explain the above statment? The BOV takes the excess air from when the throttle is snapped shut. The Brake booster with the 1 way valave plumbs into the inlet manifold after the throttle. As long as the pistons continue on the intake strokes then the booster will have a vac supply. I'm not saying it can't happen, I just want to know how it does.
Entaran
Well-Known Member
I really honestly don't know jon. But I can show you the red GTO that it happens on? Maybe I should take a photo of his plumbing and stuff. But honest to god, everytime that thing vents it loses its brakes/stalls/loses all vac/etc. Took the bov off... was perfect. Go figure 
Entaran
Well-Known Member
If the car's stalling when you take your foot off, chances are your ISC or TPS are badly adjusted or the ISC is broken. Does it sit there and hunt at idle between like 800 and 1500 rpm?
yeah, it stalls when i slow down and foot off the gas. it idles between 1000 - 600 rpm, finished relocating the battery at the boot today then i replaced throttle elbow to 2g that i bought from america from one of the forums, i ended up using a pvc 60mm elbow to get to the stock pipe just to see if it will make a little difference, it did a little,hopefully it doesnt burst, might get the whole intercooler pipes done to 2.5 inch. anyway cleaned the throttle body aswell , still idles the same, i was reading the vfaq last night regarding adjustment of the BISS, but i dont know which ones to ground at the front and inside(fuse box). has anyone done this BISS adjustment before on a 88 jspec? hopefully can get some help, thanks guys..
Velocity Racing
Well-Known Member
Entaran said:
yeah that doest make any sense... The booster works on vacume (negative pressure) not under boost, when the bov opens and the intake returns back to normal vacume thenthe booster works propperly as in normal cirumstances youlift off the throttle under brakes...
The best example of this is drive up a big hill with full throttle and give it a few big pumps of brake at the same time with ur leet foot and you will feel that after the first push of the pedal you will have a rock solid pedal...
The other time this occurs is with antilag as you still have boost off throttle
I don't run a booster in the rallycar and just have a rod that goes into the standard master cyl.. It makes for a very hard to push pedal.. But it's Always constant and that way I can propperly leftfiit brake...
Mico.. You won't regret seeing Mike he is the evo/vr4 gun!
Dean
Member
What size wiring did you use for the battery relocation?
