Eek! Probs with suspension and car a bit slow ?

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Dave_GSR1.8

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So, I was off work last week, so I did some reading of the “Evolution 1-3, CC GSR Technical” forum, starting at page 122. Lots of info and out of that came many things to consider...

A couple of topics that gave me pause for thought were suspension issues and speed.

Issue with suspension is that I have fitted some whiteline caster correction bushes and now when on full right lock and reversing I get the wheel rubbing on the suspension, thought nothing of it until I saw a comment that this can be a defectible issue – is this the case ?

Other issue is speed; I went to Heathcote the other weekend and did some 1/4 mile runs, best time was 15.1, I thought this wasn't too bad but then read that, in the past, quite a few CC GSR's with minor mods (equivalent to what I'm running) did anything down to high 13's. So, is 131 KW atw doing a 15.1 slow ? I think it is, what do others think ? Stock 1/4, I think, was 15.4. Not blaming the car, probably me. Reason is 60' time, was 2.3 secs, is this slow? I was talking to one of the EVO guys there that weekend and he suggested that if I could get 0.1 sec off the 60' time I could gain 0.2 sec on ET, so maybe I can get into high 14's on that basis, so naturally, I have to ask, how do I manage that?!! Car is limited to just under 5k revs for launch via ECM Lite, should I raise this a bit for harder take off. ? Running an Exedy HD clutch, not sure if that is a limiting factor, any observations/comments on that appreciated. I've seen comments in other topics that they are not very good...
 
it is all in the launch......bog it down and its slow.....too many revs and fried clutch.

try soft rear susp settings and play with tyre pressures
 
On street tyres 1.6 sec 60 ft is about as good as you'll get in anything, provided, as has been mentioned above, you get a good launch.

Don't be too disheartened, it's all about practise. Set your launch rpm at max torque, whatever that is for a '93

Then you just need to practise launching hard, get some good times, and then you get to practice changing transfer cases and clutches, it's all win win :p
 
Your mph is the hp. The et is how well you use it.

My ute is pretty close to 100mph trap speed. But its a bit lighter than a gsr, but its only fwd.

Post all the times/ speeds and I will run it on the calculator.

You tube launch dsm and see if you can get some tips
 
Of course any part of your wheel or tyre coming into contact with the car's suspension or body is a defectable offence. But more importantly its a huge safety issue!
Your wheel offset is too bias toward the struts, your wheel and tyre combo diameter is too tall, your tyre width is too wide, or your strut top adjustment is adjusted for too much castor or camber and needs checking.
Those castor bushes shouldn't cause any issues provided all the others items I just listed are in spec. Heaps of guys run those bushes, including myself, and never had an issue with it.
 
Yeah, thats why I was surprised!

On the front;
- stock original wheels
- stock size tyres
- stock original sway bar
- stock original springs
- stock ride height
- KYB replacement struts
- whiteline castor bushes
- whiteline camber bolts
- nolathane bushes for front lower locating arm
- suspension settings as per whitlelines recommendations from their "works" article of many years ago (late 1990's I think)

So it looks absolutely stock when you look at it, drives so much better, but has that problem on full right lock when reversing (does not happen at any other time). The wheel aligner didn't mention anyting about the chassis being bent, and I see no reason to think so, so I am puzzled, I will have another look tomorrow.
 
Hmm something definitely wrong going on somewhere with your car.
I also have Whiteline castor bushes (not camber bolts). Im using BC coilovers setup as per Whiteline GSR camber/castor specs. 110mm ride height and 17x7" wheels with 215 wide tyres, stock 42 offset rims. Didn't even scrub when I was using 40 offset rims.
Perhaps one of your lower control arms is bent? Check the front wheel track even.
Happened to me once. I got a set of lower control arms off a frontcut a while back and the frontcut must have been dropped on the ground and bent both lower control arms upwards at the hub at almost the same amount on both sides. It gave me free camber lol.... but my wheel track was out. We discovered that during measuring all the specs for engineering. Replaced them and it sorted the wheel track back to oem.
 
You are at 95mph. That is good for a 14.2 sec 1/4, a 9.1sec 1/8 and a 1.8 60'
On a perfect day. ..

But you have awd, so the 60' time is pretty much achievable.
Also, that in near 0.5 sec off the 60' and results in near 1.0 sec off the et.
Do you have the nlts enabled? Mine actually shifts nicer with nlts. It rarely misses the 2-3 change. As you have ecmlink, you only need to pull pedal bracket and add switch mount and run wire to ecu. Mine is a top mount switch, the hole is there already, just need some threads.
 
His 60' time of 2.3 seconds killed it for him immediately. If you can bring it down 0.3-0.5 seconds by launching harder you would make up a lot of time off the line.
The 5k rev limit for launching is too low IMO. It'll save your driveline but you want to be shooting off the line harder.
Before your next outing, practice your launching technique by raising your launch limit to 5500rpm. Then try again at 6000rpm whilst lightly loading the clutch just before releasing it to see what technique and rpm works best.
 
I have a wheels magazine somewhere here from when the gsr was released in Australia (I may have given it to Benzo.....). But, the gsr was running 15.3 and 145kmh from memory, however that was on a correvit timer, so with roll out from the drags, so you should be able to run 0.4 or 5 quicker with the roll out. Your mph sounds healthy though mate.
 
That's excellent feedback, many thanks, now I have got something to work with (ie me!). I am going to have a crack at Heathcote again in June and will aim to get it under 15sec (realistically, just under, in my fantasies low 14's...)
 
With your opening post about wheel rubbing.

Often need to centralise the rack when getting a alignment. Maybe you have more left lock than right lock.
Steer hard right and measure gap tyre to rail. Then hard left and measure same gap on other wheel. Compare.

When getting alignment they can measure these angles. Then halve it to get the rack centred. Then adjust the rack ends to suit, then move the steering wheel to suit.

Easier may be just count the steering wheel turns from straight to hard left compared to straight to hard right...
Centralise rack, move steering wheel, get alignment.
 
Thanks Jack, you nailed it

More turns to right full lock from dead centre than to left full lock.

Another thing to add to the to do, go faster, fix it list.

Also, launch control set to 4500rpm, will set to 5500rpm for next go at Heathcote
 

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