Emissions Testing in NSW - Where, How and What to expect?

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EVO-00X

4G63T AWD CC COUPE
Joined
Jun 17, 2005
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Location
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Here's an extract from a letter provided to RTA engineering signatories in regards to having vehicles emissions tested in Sydney for free. The beauty of this is that people from interstate whom may be subjected to paying $$$ for an emissions test, weigh up the cost of travelling to Sydney and having it done for free :thumbsup: The IM240 Emissions test is run by the RTA NSW and is a means to test if a car is emissions compliant to the ADR of manufacture. The downside though, is that the EPA NSW doesnt recognise this testing method as a true indicator. That's right, One hand of the govt not talking to the other hand. The EPA only recognise their own testing method! This is the same for Exhaust noise level tests, where the NSW Stationery exhaust noise level test carried out by authorised testors is good for the motoring governing body, but not for the EPA unless the EPA test it themselves b their own means.

Updated: Check out my emissions report later in this thread showing the results I got with my engine modifications - you'll be surprised, might even calm a few nerves!! :)

Some things to note:
You have to have a full exhaust system fitted without leaks (cat and muffler) and must NOT not have a screamer pipe venting to the atmosphere from the external wastegate.
A new catalytic converter (ceramic core) is best to pass this kind of test. I recommend a new 3" CATCO or MAGNAFLOW 300 or 400 CPSI and a new 02 sensor wouldnt hurt either.
Your car also has to be in reasonable roadworthy condition with no major oil leaks.
A breather filter on top of the oil catch can will be frowned upon. Remove it before going to the test.
An external venting BOV may also be frowned upon however have been on cars during the test before and nothing said about them.
And for Gods sake, at least have a good tune!! If it smells like fuel or burning oil coming out of your exhaust dont bother making the trip lol :lol:
 
Yep, they heat up quicker so they start processing the toxic gases sooner. In the 4 minutes worth of testing it could mean the difference between a pass or fail. My tuner has taken many cars to the testing facility at Penrith and the most success has been with using ceramic core cats over metal ones.

Metal cats generally have a fewer cell count over the ceramic cores therefore they can flow more CFM. They also handle heat and an engine running a bit rich better than a ceramic core can. The difference in gain may only be just a few hp over a ceramic, so basically less than 1psi worth of power IMO so nothing too special. On the other hand running too rich will kill a ceramic core cat very quickly, so there are a couple of benefits in using a metal core over a ceramic one in a performance application, but not in an emissions application. Either way, a good 'leaner' tune is a MUST before an emissions test if you are running a rich tune.

Ultimately for the emissions test you'd want to fit a new flanged ceramic core cat converter for easy bolt on replacement. After the emissions test I guess an owner could remove the ceramic cat and replace it with a metal core cat. This would be friendlier to your power curve but it will be less friendlier to the environment. Im not condoning either way as Im sitting on the fence on this one. Is anybody going to notice what type of cat you're running after an emissions test? I highly doubt it since it is not recorded anywhere in the emissions test and there's no way of knowing by looking at it from the outside. The authorities are interested in whether you have proof that you've had an emissions test performed after vehicle modifications and PASSED. There is no way for them to determine or police what you've done after the fact other than their sense of smell if you're running a rich tune. The other benefit of a flanged cat converter is that you can remove it and fit a straight through pipe for competition use, depending on the rules of your motorsport.

People generally forget that the amount of gasses processed by cat converters reduces the older and more use they get. So if you have had yours on for several years it would be a good idea to swap it for a new one before the test. Also if you have been running a rich tune chances are its either already stuffed or not functioning very well. If you go to an emissions test with an old cat and big cams, running a slightly rich tune be prepared to fail.
 
:eek: Fk that for a joke!
Would be heaps cheaper making the trip up for sure, then run the car at WSID afterwards, which isnt far from Penrith :thumbsup:
 
I might take my galant in once is all finished off :) see how it goes. Hopefully they dont send people to defect you after. I dunno how well it'll do. Might be ok :)
 
Good to see the near new Catco cat converter kick OEM butt in reducing emissions! This is why I stated earlier to get a new ceramic core cat converter if you havent replaced your cat converter in a while, or even if you still have the OEM cat. My 3" high flow CATCO got my car passed at Penrith. I also fitted a brand new 02 sensor as well which would have assisted in reducing emissions further. I'll post up results later tonight including my report to give you guys an idea of what sort of emissions my worked 4G63T put out during the IM240 emissions test :)

Extract from the article in the link above:
Next was the Catco - the first of the aftermarket designs. Having done probably less than 10 kilometres of work, this was one fresh cat - and it showed.

Gases No Cat Catco I/M 240 Standard
HC (grams per mile) 1.2
0.004
0.600

CO (grams per mile) 24.44
2.29
10.00

NO (grams per mile) 1.92
1.38
1.500

PASS!
This cat converter shows just how stunning the cat-induced emissions reduction can be. HC was dropped by 99.7 per cent over having no cat, CO was down by over 90 percent, and NO was decreased by 28 per cent. And yes, the car passed the test....
 
As promised, here's my emissions test report during engineering of my car in December 2008. Sorry about the watermarks but they are a necessity because there are people out there who like to make fake copies of emissions reports. WARNING: The RTA/EPA/Police now have ways to cross reference test results according to the vehicle specs and date/location data on the report so people making fakes are just wasteing their time - a simple check on the computer system will confirm it. A fake report will land the person responsible/owner of the vehicle with a heavy fine from the EPA.

Back to the graph - Only the 2nd IM240 test result graph is shown here. However the table underneath shows the results of the 1st and 2nd IM240 test runs in simple terms.

The % result indicates how much emissions the coupe made as a percentage of the 100% limit required for that partuclar exhaust gas (emissions are compared to limits specified in ADR37/00 for vehicles manufactured between 1986-1996).

1st Test Results - My first IM240 test run on the dyno. The cat converter wouldnt have reached optimum operating temperature yet and the results prove it. The THC limit was 0.93 and the coupe met that amount exactly!! This shows it was making 100% of the required THC levels allowed!! Holy shit that was close! a 100% result still nets a PASS. Nox levels were showing at 96.89% of the required level and CO an easy 58.06% limit. Phew... my first test was a nail biter however it does not count for the final test... its only a warm up.

2nd test results - Wow, what a difference a few minutes makes for a cat converter to work effectively. My THC levels dropped to 55.91%, Nox 56.99% and CO an easy 24.73%. The 2nd test almost halved the emissons output of the first test! An easy PASS for the coupe!

Mods done to the car - A fresh 4G63T DOHC turbo engine (VR4 6-bolt) with exactly 20km on it, so basically the car was started up for the first time, given a tune then made a run to be emissions tested even before the rings had a chance to bed in properly. It would have almost certainly had some oil blowby because of this which would have contributed to some extra emissions. Other mods include a Haltech E8 ECU tuned with 510cc injectors and 98 pump fuel, 280 duration cams, 1mm oversize valves, ported head, 3" zorst, new 3" Catco ceramic muffler, new 02 sensor, external wastegate plumbed backed into the exhaust system, Garrett GT3040 turbo. As the test barely even puts the engine under any strain, or the turbo under much boost at all (only pumping 4psi at 4500rpm) the amount of emissions was minimal. It met the requirements easy, and guys with big turbos will find it easier to pass the test because of the way the test is setup and measured. Most of the time you'll be off boost making minimal emissions!! :)

I'd like to see guys who have had their cars emissions tested provide similar feedback in this thread if possible. It would be good to see test results achieved using different engine modifications and turbos etc. :)
 
Oh I almost forgot til I just seen a post that reminded me about it... I read some time ago that using an oil doused 'wet type' air filter can also add to your emissions levels. Probably not by much, but worth noting anyhow in case you run a wet type filter and have over oiled it.
 
Now that E85 fuel is becoming more readily available we could see a lot of cars pass emissions without worry lol :lol:
BUT, for those still on pump fuel with OEM setups it might not be as easy to pass, especially if you've got dodgey sensors or a worn turbo blowing some smoke.

Below is a test report from a friends car earlier this year.
Engine wasnt long rebuilt with the usual bottom end stuff but it was stock as a rock using OEM injectors, ECU, intake, piping, etc plus a new exhaust and cat from memory.
There is a sensor playing up somewhere which threw a dodgey signal to the ECU and caused a spike in THC levels that almost cost him a FAILED test.
At least the Inspectors could see that it was a spontaneous spike and the car mostly ran quite well. They passed it but advised to get the engine checked out.
The engine had been heating up now and then above the normal level. A later check found a small leak around the clamp of one of the water hoses going to the throttle body, and the radiator cap wasnt getting a good seal. A change of hoses, new thermostat and radiator cap fixed the problem of the engine getting a rise in temperature.
 

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