Engine management options

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jase

Ye Olde Member
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Apr 2, 2005
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Beware, this is going to be a long post! :lol:

I'm looking at my options to get my vr4 going a bit quicker and at the moment the list is looking somewhat like this:

Evo 3 16g (ported intake and exhaust)
SBR Cast Manifold (Evo 3 copy) (ported)
Hybrid Connection Tubular 02 Housing
2.5" downpipe (probably)
3" "cat" back :lol: straight pipe.. maybe a resonator
580cc injectors? Maybe slightly bigger
Hybrid cooler and 2.5" piping
Unsure what fuel pump yet, something just big enough and a semi decent FPR.

Anyway, essentially, this is a rough idea of the system that I want.

I am looking for quick, but it MUST be responsive - drags don't mean anything to me as it will be daily driven, and driven LOTS in the hills, then raced at hillclimbs and the occasional track day.

Now I looked into the single board/chip/datalogger/bigger maf/etc option, but after seriously considering it, I am probably better ogg getting a Microtech or a Haltech. I mean seriously, think about it at least $200 for the single board ecu, palm will be $150 probably, datalogging cable is another $90 or so isn't it? then the bigger afm will be more and thats not even chipped yet.

Not to mention A/M doesn't need the afm too. :p :lol:

Now I always said when I got this car that I aimed to make it simple. So far I haven't done very well :lol: , but RWS is coming out soon, and I'm keen to get rid of my afm. I've also been told that with A/M you don't need FIAV and a few other things? Correct?

Now keeping in mind, it's a daily, so I want it running good. I don't want to be hell-toe-ing it around while I'm waiting for it to heat up and so forth.

So yeah, the name of the game is reliability and drivability. That's more important than overall power.

Now what would everyone suggest? :D

Complete standalone? Piggyback?

Oh, and antilag/launch control would be nice too. Just for fun when I'm at the lights next to the ricers... :lol:
 
If you get a competent tuner and are willing to pay them the time then theres no reason full aftermarket wont be good.
Although i think reliable and rotational idle + antilag can even go in the same sentence!!

Having said all that the yanks mostly run around with chipped ecu's and safc's. If you decide to go down that route i have an afm u can buy
 
my car is currently getting a wolf ECU. I thought after all the messing around with chips, etc. it would be easier to just go aftermarket.
also, the workshop i use are very competent at tuning the wolf.
i'll let you know how it goes when i get it back.
 
i went for the wolf because the workshop i go to specialises in them. they have also done power FC's and microtech's etc, but they swear by the wolf, saying that with the 125rpm tuning increments and a few other things it will give better drivability.
price is pretty good too. $1095 for the computer or $1395 for the computer and hand controller.
i couldnt be bothered stuffing around with chips, upgrading the AFM, etc. etc. thought i might aswell go all out the first time and not have to change it again.
 
yeah well that's how i'm thinking now. by the time i spend the money on all of that stuff, i might as well go all out. well, not "all out" on a motec but you get the idea :lol:
 
yeah jase. well im going to the same shop at matress for tuning
wolf is a good ecu

easy to use
lots of features
 
cos i'm trying to get an idea of what everyone has done and figure out how i should do it :lol:

why do you reckon? :p
 
aftermarket it always more flexible

u can use AUX items, more tunable
etc

just more pricey and cost more to tune..

its really up to you

depends what u want your car to do and other things such as cold start / idle / air con etc
 
well say i want it to be drivable and have air cond and everything the way it is now, but i also want to make it quicker and one of probably the most important things is the piss the maf off.

87vr4 is getting about the same economy that i ambut he's got an evo 3 16g and heaps of other stuff!

ya heard? lol
 
see in that case
you have to consider

-air con input into ecu (when air con goes up, ecu will increase idle due to the extra load)

-idle control (the mitsu idle needs 4 aux ports to control, u cannot do this will all aftermarket ecu's... avg ecu aux outputs is 2.. take that into consideration).. u could go with another stepper motor eg, EA FALCON which use a single aux output... or retain your stock ecu to control your idle, but then u cant control your air con idle so when u turn the air con on, it will most likely stall due to the load drop, so u'll be heal and toeing everytime at the lights

-cold start (not easy to set on an aftermarket ecu sometimes, takes alot of time and basically u get 1 shot per day to tune it)

other than that, tuning will be the major cost

your decision mate!

im getting around 400km's per tank!!
i've only done 210km's.. but i've got over 1/2 a tank left!
this is with a 12:1 afr.. no turbo

stock i only managed 350 km's per tank..

so aftermarket doesnt mean more fuel..
it all depends on the afr
 
Almost the same amount of features as motec. Autotune function. Ability to run antilag/rotational idle. The PnP version actually bolts into the stock ecu cover so is very stealth. The bad part is it costs roughly $2400
 
AUSVR4 said:
. The bad part is it costs roughly $2400

Better than $4000+ for the same featured MoTeC board!

I still think its good value, its the tuning that is the killer :x
 

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