evo 1 4g63t strange noise and erratic idle

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4g7bolter

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Jun 5, 2015
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New Zealand
Hi guys, I installed a new cam belt and headgasket on my evo 1 stock engine. I have done this basic task many times before and I have never come across anything like this before.

For a day after starting the car with the new cambelt and headgasket, the engine had been running perfect, I had driven about 12km around town, not even labouring it past 4xxxrpm. The idle seemed slightly higher than before though on idle.

I drove the car back from work tonight which is about a 3km drive away, parked the car in the driveway and turned it off. about 15minutes later I went outside to start it to move it into the garage and straight away on ignition it started making a very strange noise.

heres a video of my engine running 20 mins ago 3rd start up with strange noise
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nip9ZYODhCY&feature=youtu.be

the second time I tried to start it , it seemed to not want to ignite and the starter motor would stop as if it was too much compression or something.

A day prior to pulling the head/cambelt off when the car was still running I noticed it had a bad misfire on one or two of the cylinders at low rpm, stuttering backfiring etc then I just parked it up. I checked the number 2 spark plug and the gap was slightly smaller than the other 3 spark plugs and had carbon/heat damage. I thought to leave it and then procceded to start pulling the old head gasket and cambelt off as they were due to be done.

I wouldnt think I could have spun any rod bearings, dropped big ends just from simply turning the car on once shouldn't I? it sounds horrible!! it was running fine literally 15 minutes ago!


video of just starter motor turning over without spark plugs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n7WswuLU-ig&feature=youtu.be


Any help/knowledge would be greatly appreciated
 
Did you check the harmonic balancer mark was correct as you put it back together? If so (always check it) its only a quick job to check cam timing marks.

why did you change the head gasket? Was the head warped/machined while off?
1missing cylinder will still idle. 2 missing cylinders make it stall. If it was idling but rough it was prolly just one cylinder missing.

Check cam timing first, then a compression test to see if any damage.
 
eJackulator said:
Did you check the harmonic balancer mark was correct as you put it back together? If so (always check it) its only a quick job to check cam timing marks.

why did you change the head gasket? Was the head warped/machined while off?
1missing cylinder will still idle. 2 missing cylinders make it stall. If it was idling but rough it was prolly just one cylinder missing.

Check cam timing first, then a compression test to see if any damage.
I didn't line up the oil pump balance shaft pulley because I have had both balance shafts removed previously.

I just changed the head gasket because i wanted to upgrade the fibre optic head gasket to a cometic steel head gasket. And no I didn't get anything machined as the motor was running fine before.

Okay I will check the timing marks and the crank mark.

Hoping i havn't warped the head as i did the head bolts up in sequence starting from the centre at 50 ft lbs then 45 degree +45 degree turn each. And I didn't re-tighten them after the first heat cycle. maybe I fucked that up?
 
I'd re torque the head in the correct sequence. Check cam belt timing, then Jacks favourite.... Do a comp test.
 
I just preach good accurate diagnostics

As opposed to:
Sounds like your flywheel is loose, pull the gearbox and check that its tight.
and then the resulting reply-
Just spent all day pulling the gearbok and the flywheel is tight, what else could it be....
ummmm, might be you dropped something inside the engine- pull the head back off for a look.

solid diagnostics.....and sonata parts
 
+1 Retorque as cranked says too ^

you know the block and head should have different surface prep when using a mls. Mls needs a much smoother surface than a composite. Because the composite 'keys' into the head and block but a mls doesnt.
should always run a straight edge over the head if you pull it off also.
 
I'm thinking lack of oil flow to the head, Back off the banjo bolt that connects the oil line for the turbo to the head. start her up and see if there is flow..
 
Yeah, it sounds like its coming from the top of the motor rather

Ive done the comression test and Ive found this

Cylinder 1 : 180
Cylinder 2 : 150
Cylinder 3 : 180
Cylinder 4 : 180

Any theories?
Note that cylinder number two,Prior i had the head of,I inspected the valves on the head and they had a lot of carbon build up. more so than the others. The spark plug in that cylinder was also a bit more burnt than the other plugs
 
check valves spring heights for bent valve....did you do an oil flow test? Sounds a bit like the lifters have no oil
 
Leakdown test now, or just pump air into cylinder and see where its coming out. Oil filler, intake or exhaust.
I make my own adaptors. Bash the porcelain out of a spark plug and epoxy a tube in there. Connect a pipe and put your air line fitting on.

if ever a head is off, i put a little kerosene in the ports, if it leaks out, the valves need attention, either relapping or replacing.

plus the other stuff the guys said.
 
I only just then watched the video. Maybe its spat a rocker half out?
You can pull rocker cover off and start it. Put plenty of towels down as they spray oil everywhere.

It sounds like a big enough noise that a inspection will pick up the issue.

Pull the rocker cover and check it out. If not obvious, pump some air into no2
 
eJackulator said:
I only just then watched the video. Maybe its spat a rocker half out?
You can pull rocker cover off and start it. Put plenty of towels down as they spray oil everywhere.

It sounds like a big enough noise that a inspection will pick up the issue.

Pull the rocker cover and check it out. If not obvious, pump some air into no2
Well Ive taken the rocker cover off and everything looks tight, as In I can see that all the rockers are intact.
 
About ten minutes ago, I'm led to believe maybe i might have dropped a big end bearing? Why I say this is because Ive tried simply putting two 17mm spanners on both cam gears and rotating the crank over, I can only turn it 90 degrees both ways , the crank just locks up both ways i turn it. If anything i should be able to continuously rotate without stopping?
 

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