EVO 9 Drag Car, STM Build 1001WHP!

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to4garret

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This is being posted on mmc.org.nz, but i thought people here might like a read.

original thread http://www.mmc.org.nz/forum/viewtopic.php?t=62449

"docile" said:
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Im sure that a few of you on here have been following the progress of Dave Stocks EVO 9, and since the car is in the midst of a pretty serious upgrade, we thought we would run a build thread on the car. Hopefully this will give a bit of insight into how we think at STM, and how we go about achieving our customers aims.

Just to recap where things were at the end of last season, the cars specs were as follows:

STM 2.2 litre stroker motor, 8.5:1 compression
STM stage 3 cylinder head with 1mm oversize stainless valves, double valve springs and titanium retainers. Kelford 280 degree cams/HKS camwheels
HKS head gasket
STM Drag Head Stud Kit
Garrett TO4Z turbo/HKS 60mm GT2 wastegate
STM 4 FMIC kit
ATS/Carbonetic triple plate carbon clutch
PPG 4 speed dog engagement drag box/sequential shifter
Motec M400 ecu
Motec SDL dashlogger

The car was tuned on Q16 race gas to 36 psi and made around 510kw atw.

Despite Dave busting out a 9.69 @ 142 mph (making it the fastest late model evo in the southern hemisphere) last season was a bit of a mess, with a steep learning curve for Dave and a number of bugs with the combination that we needed to sort through. We also need to keep things in perspective as cars in the states have been running these sort of times for a few years now. Thats ok however as we intend to go faster MUCH faster!

While everyone was pretty stoked with the 9.69, what wasnt obvious from the sidelines is that the car was still de-tuned while Dave was getting his head around things. At a guess, we were probably around 80-100kw down on the dyno numbers. The biggest success however was running a 1.28 60 time (for comparison stateside, AMS run in the 1.4X range with their record holding EVO 8!)

So what does Dave have in store for the 09/10 season?

After last season, Dave and the STM team decided to step things up a notch. It was decided to build the car into a dedicated drag car and shed a lot of weight in the process. We decided we needed to be making considerably more power and wanted to focus on getting the power to the track reliably.

The intention is to run the car into the high 8s initially, with the aim of getting down to the mid/low 8s by the season end.

This thread will bring you updates as we progress through the build. Please feel free to ask questions or add comments.

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"docile" said:
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While the factory Brembo brakes are a pretty good thing on the late model evos, they are made for repeated stops from speed. We are only interested in stopping the car once (although we are expecting to be doing this from 160+ mph). We also have the benefit of the NZDRA mandated chute. The stock brakes are also very heavy, and require a 17” wheel for clearance.

To sort all the above, we decided to go with a set of billet Wildwood calipers with thin scalloped rotors. These brakes fit nicely under the newly acquired 15” Rays TE37’s. We are using a 4 piston calliper on the front with a lighter/smaller 2 piston calliper on the rear. The callipers are fitted with drag-spec pads which are designed to work effectively from cold.

To suit the new brakes, all the factory lines and abs pump were removed. New hardlines were run through the car and adapted to the hydraulic handbrake and the newly fitted line locker. Mating the hardlines to the callipers are custom braided lines to ensure a rock solid pedal. The entire system is then bled up with Motul RBF600 fluid.

The new wheel and Tyre package consists of the previously mentioned Rays TE37’s in a 15x8 fitment. You would not believe how hard it is to find a 15” wheel with the correct fitment for a late model evo! We are running Mickey Thompson 24.5 x 8 x 15 drag slicks, as these are the widest tyre that is legal in Sport Mod. We may need to look at stepping the car up into Pro Import however as we feel that putting the power through these tyres may prove challenging on NZ tracks!

The next installment will cover the new turbocharger selection as well as the installation dramas involved with fitting such a huge turbo to a factory chassis!

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"docile" said:
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Welcome to the second installment of STM’s EVO 9 build thread. We need to apologise firstly for the delay, as we had expected to have this update out over a month ago. Our shop has been in a state of chaos over the last couple of months, and our priority has been trying to keep ahead of the mountain of work! As the car’s debut is planned for the STM & Redline Import Only Drag Day at Masterton Motorplex on November 7th, time is getting tight so further updates should be a bit more regular.

This update will cover the fabrication work performed to the car over the last few months, including the front-end modifications, as well as the new turbo setup. Our aim with the car is to build a combination capable of running mid to low 8 second passes. Even with our level of knowledge gained through our own drag car as well as the likes of TRYTNC and DECPTN, we have had little experience with the late model chassis in this application so it is going to be a steep learning curve.

We will break this update into two sections: Chassis Prep, and Turbo System.


Chassis Prep:

The base car will remain as a unibody chassis, however we made the decision to remove the front chassis rails forward of the strut towers. While the weight saving is a bonus, the main advantage was gained from the additional room provided for the turbo and manifold etc. In an attempt to get as much weight over the front wheels as possible, we also moved the fuel cell and pumps to the front of the car.

Once the chassis rails were jigged to prevent any movement, Bam let loose and cut the front of the car off. He then bent up a lower loop of 1.75” chrome moly tube to replace the lower radiator support. A smaller 0.5” chrome moly tube was bent to form the upper radiator support and provide mounting points for the headlight covers, bonnet catches, and bumper. From here, mounts were added in for the new 20 litre fuel cell, as well as the twin SX pumps and matching filters.

We had already decided that the car will retain a radiator, albeit a relatively small one. This will make the car easier to run at drag events as it can be driven back down the return road. It also simplifies the tuning process. We had a custom unit made up to suit our requirements, and this was fitted to the front left corner of the car. Given our plans for the turbo and manifold, there would be no room in the conventional position.

Under the car, the standard gearbox crossmember was replaced by another light-weight chrome moly bar. The engine and gearbox are now solid mounted, so there is no requirement for flexible rubber mounts. The design of this bar as well as the entire front end is all about making the car easy to work on. Several little modifications have been made along the way to make it quicker to remove the gearbox which is always the weak point of any 4WD drag car.

Since we have no fuel cell in the rear of the car, there was no longer a requirement for a firewall in the back. This was cut out, as was the boot floor and a substantial amount of bracing. In all, we believe we have removed around 75 kg of excess weight from the chassis before we even consider the fibreglass doors and bootlid! It is expected that in total we will have shed close to 200kg of weight before the car hits the strip again.

The new fibreglass bootlid is essentially just a thin shell, so Bam got busy fabricating some mounting points for it. While he was at it, the new chute got mounted along with another chrome moly bar to attach it to.

One of the single largest weight savings is from the new doors we are fitting. These were sourced from the UK and are a beautiful replica of the factory door, complete with lexan windows. These bad boys saved a massive 77kg over the factory units!!!

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Turbo System:

There are endless turbo combinations in use on EVO drag cars, and STM have had experience with most of them. We have had great results with both the HKS T51R turbos (DOCILE, TRYTNC) as well as the GT42 based units (DECPTN). When you want to beat the best however, there isn’t much point in just doing the same thing that the competition is doing. Going out on a limb and trying different combinations is what has kept STM ahead of the pack this far, and Dave’s car is no different.

After a lot of thought, we have made the decision to use a Garrett GT45 based unit. From our experience this turbo is capable of handling over 1400 hp, and with Dave’s 2.2L engine, should still provide a useable power band. We also chose to replace the factory exhaust housing with a Tial V-Band housing. This saved around 8 kg, and makes fabrication easier as well as the installation and removal of the turbo. Given the physical size of the turbo, it was a good thing we had made the call to cut the front off the car or it simply wouldn’t fit! Before you consider fitting one of these to your street car, keep in mind that we don’t expect to see full boost till around 8000 rpm, and the engine will rev to 11,000 to make the best use of the turbo!

Using a 321 Stainless merge collector from Burns Stainless, Bam set about fabricating an equal length long primary manifold to mount the new turbo. Given that we had no radiator or chassis to worry about, Bam could focus on getting the flow perfect, and the lengths matched correctly. With the weight of the turbo, support is obviously critical and we used two rose-jointed support bars to do the job. These still allow the turbo and manifold to move with heat expansion, but support the weight to prevent cracking.

We were fortunate enough to have Turbosmart come on board with the project, and have utilised the new 60mm wastegate, as well as a raceport blow off valve. Stable boost is often a problem with a lot of the cars that are brought to us for tuning, and boost creep can become a huge issue when you are dealing with 40-50 psi of boost! To provide perfectly flat boost, the wastegate has been taken off the merge collector to allow perfect uninterrupted flow. To finish the installation, Bam put together a 100mm stainless exhaust dump, and a 63mm wastegate dump. You can see the mounting lugs for the 4 EGT sensors in the manifold that are essential in tuning an engine at this level.

We are still using the existing FMIC from Dave’s old setup. This is a 4” thick bar and plate core which worked perfectly last time. New 3” alloy plumbing was made up to suit the new turbo installation. We are still using silicone joiners with t-Bolt hose clamps, however there is provision for a strap across each joiner to ensure they can’t blow off under high boost. One of Turbosmart’s newly released 45mm wastegates will be fitted to the intercooler to provide instant boost during staging/launch.

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And this one's for the ladies.
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"docile" said:
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This week we are going to cover the design and build of the engine that will power Dave’s EVO down the mile. STM are not new to building big power 4G63 engines, but this project threw up a few challenges that made us think outside the box a little. If we were starting with a clean-sheet-of-paper approach, then a methanol engine would be an easy choice, but it comes with some drawbacks that didn’t fit with our build criteria. Methanol has a number of advantages over petroleum-based fuels including its superior cooling ability, and its ability to suppress detonation. A methanol motor however, requires around 2-2.5 times the quantity of fuel to support the same power as a petrol motor. This requires a lot of injectors and massive fuel pumps all adding to the expense and complexity. Since methanol is corrosive and attacks aluminium, it also must be flushed from the system after use, adding to the challenges of running the car. On paper methanol is a cheaper fuel (around $2-$3 per litre vs around $8-$10 for C16 and Q16), but with the amount of fuel used and the added cost of the pumps and injectors to support it make it a more expensive option initially.

We all put our heads together early in the project and decided that in this instance we were going to design the engine to run on the relatively new Q16 fuel. This fuel has been around for a season or so, and we have seen impressive gains over the industry standard C16. One of its advantages is that it is oxygenated, which means it carries its own oxygen content – basically this is chemical supercharging! It is also more resistant to detonation, making it a pretty easy decision to make. We have seen between 5-10% improvement in power when retuning from C16 to Q16 at the same boost levels – impressive no matter how you look at it.

To run on Q16, we chose a modest compression ratio of 8.5:1 which was selected keeping in mind that we expected to be running anything up to 50 psi boost eventually. The pistons are made by JE specifically for STM (ie these are no off-the-shelf pistons!). In particular the skirt design, crown shape, valve cut-outs, and wrist pin are all selected to achieve our desired power levels with reliability. We are using a gapless ring set which we have found to be very effective in reducing blow-by in high boost drag motors. This also tends to reduce oil consumption and the improved ring seal can’t hurt the horsepower either.

The crank is the existing unit brought over from the last build which is a work-of-art made by Tomei. This is a 94mm stroke design that gives us a handy 2.2 Litre displacement, but still allows the engine to retain the ability to rev (pretty important when you realise we are expecting to run to over 10,000 rpm!). I would suggest not doing the calculation on piston velocity on that because the results aren’t pretty and goes against what anybody sensible has ever recommended for a race motor! The reality is however that we are using the best parts available to get the job done, it only needs to do it for 8 seconds at a time and ultimately we have already proven it works with our other engines.

The conrods we chose for this combination are a set of beautiful billet alloy items. Alloy rods are a mixed bag giving us the advantage of much lower reciprocating weight, but also requiring regular replacement, making them only really suitable for drag applications. Due to the nature of the material, aluminium has a fatigue life which means that at some point in its life it will fail. These particular rods are rated for a life of approximately 60 passes in a 1200hp motor, so you would need to pull over and change your conrods around 27 times on a drive from Auckland to Wellington! Alloy rods are much more gentle on the rod bearings as they don’t tend to transfer shock loading into the bearing like a steel rod can. The rods will also stretch at high rpm which requires a lot of additional clearance between the piston and the cylinder head when compared to a steel rod.

We utilise ARP fasteners throughout the motor, however at this level we use a proprietary head stud made to our specific requirements that is capable of providing the clamp we need to withstand 50+ psi boost pressure. These studs work in conjunction with our o-ring design and an HKS metal head gasket. This is an area that we have developed over 4-5 years now as head gasket integrity is the single limiting factor in our import drag engines.

The cylinder head itself hasn’t changed too much. It was given a freshen up with new valve seats to suit the existing 1mm oversize Ferrea valves. We are retaining the same double valve spring kit from last season, however we are now running an STM adjustable solid lifter kit, combined with a billet cam profile ground to our specs. Needless to say that economy and idle quality weren’t on the agenda here, and Dave’s car should be sounding suitably aggressive this season! The solid lifters are a bit of a pain as they require semi-regular adjustment to ensure valve lash is correct, however they will not pump up or bleed down like a hydraulic lifter can, so they are much better suited to 10,000 rpm operation.

That’s more than enough from us for the moment, so sit back and enjoy the photos. More updates to follow very shortly.


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Using a bore gauge to confirm the bore to piston clearance, as well as ensuring that the bores are round and not tapered.


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Engine components prior to assembly


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Removing the rod caps requires care at any time, but with an alloy rod it is even more critical as any scratch can be a potential stress raiser causing premature cracking. We utilise a special conrod vise that prevents any possible damage.


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Measuring the crank journals with a micrometer is important to ensure the the crank journals are round and not tapered, and to also ensure that the bearing clearances are correct.


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The base of the bores required relieving to clear the caps of the alloy conrods. This is a painstaking fiddly job as each bore must be modified, cleaned and then test fitted. It is recommended that a minimum of 0.060” clearance is left between an alloy rod and any obstructions, so we need to dummy assemble the engine and confirm these clearances using playdoh or similar.


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The Freshly fitted ACL race-series main bearings fitted to the main cradle. It is critical to ensure that the bearings are correctly lubed prior to installation. We use a specific assembly lube designed to protect the crank and bearings while the engine is building oil pressure for the first time.


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Applying ARP moly assembly lube to the washers and nuts for the ARP main studs.


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Torqueing up the crank girdle is critical to the reliability of the bottom end of any engine. It is important to use the correct torque, and also the right tightening sequence.

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Measuring the crankshaft endfloat to ensure the thrust clearances are correct


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Most aftermarket pistons come with file-fit ring sets that allow the engine builder to specify the ring end gap to suit the application. Here we are filing a ring gap in our special ring file. It is equipped with a dial gauge to allow very accurate gapping.
 
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'docile said:
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Fitting the pistons into the block is one of the easiest places to go wrong when building an engine. It is easy for even a careful engine builder to damage a ring with normal ring compressors. We use special ARP sleeves that are custom selected for each bore size to ensure that the pistons and rings can’t be damaged during installation. This is great for piece of mind when assembling a lot of engines. Once the piston is loaded into the compression sleeve, it is located in the bore by its skirt and then simply pressed into place with light pressure.


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While it is common practice to tighten a rod bolt to a specific torque value, the best way of doing the job is to measure the stretch of the bolt using a stretch gauge. This ensures that the bolt is achieving the desired clamp, and eliminates the influence of different lubricants that can alter the bolt’s torque. These particular 3/8” ARP L19 fasteners require a stretch or 0.006”


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The finished short block ready to accept the cylinder head.


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To ensure the compression ratio is exactly what we want, it is important to measure the combustion chamber capacity. Using a burette, water is flowed into the combustion chamber until it fills the entire cavity.


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The cams are dialed in.


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With builds at this level, you require expensive custom parts that come in depressingly anonymous packaging like this. These are custom head studs made specifically to our requirements by ARP, and are essential if you want to hold in massive boost pressure.
 
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"docile" said:
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Well it hasn't been plain sailing, but I'm happy to announce that Project DS9 just became the newest member of the STM 1000 WHP club!!!! 8)

The car is literally still bolted to the dyno, where it has been since sunday afternoon. Everything has gone more or less to plan, but life always has to throw a couple of curve balls at ya.

Just when things started getting interesting and we raised the boost, we started running into issues with a strange cut. Basically the Motec ECU simply shuts off (just like someone turned off the power). No miss, no stutter, just a total loss of everything for a couple of tenths of a second.

We have been messing around on this for a couple of days now and everytime we think we had it nailed, it would do a couple of clean pulls then fault again. On the last run however, just before it cut on me it pulled the number we were looking for - 1001 hp at the wheels with 42 psi boost :D Note that this was only at 8000 rpm and the engine has been making peak power on full pulls closer to 9000 rpm.

Stay tuned for a full rundown on the tuning, and some video/pics

Andre
 
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"docile" said:
Hey guys,

Just a quick update after the weekend. As I had mentioned, we weren't out to break any records on our first outing, and ran the car on low boost (26 psi) all weekend.

It wasn't a great start when our brand new CDI failed at idle while the car was being warmed up! We reverted to our other ignition system and got the car to the track for a couple of gentle check-out passes to get Dave back into the swing of things.

After sorting a miss, we lined up for Dave's first full pass. This proved to be a bit of an abortion with the car having way too much power for the un-prepped track. It turned hard left off the line and went straight for the wall! We made some adjustments to the launch control to tame down the launch for the next pass and were rewarded with a 9.52 @ 159mph!! The car also went 1.320 to the 60' which blew us all away considering the track conditions.

While everyone was stoked with this result, the data showed that Dave had been out of the throttle at the top of 1st gear for 0.4 seconds, which meant the big turbo took almost another full second to get back to full boost! It doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure out what could have been...

Sunday wasn't too flash with two passes where Dave didn't manage to get 4th gear. The best pass was a 10.3 @ 89 mph which in itself isn't bad for 3 gears 8) Following the second pass however we found a broken lifter which put a premature end to our day.

We can take satisfaction in the potential that the car has shown this early on in the season, and look forward to unleashing it at full power! We will upload some pics and video as soon as we can find some spare time.

Andre
 
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"docile" said:
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Tuning:
Ok so this update might be a bit late now as those of you who have been following this thread would have already heard the result from the dyno and the track. We wanted to give a bit of insight into how we approach tuning an engine at this level, and how the combo lived up to our design criteria. There has also been a bit of discussion on the forum recently regarding running-in techniques, so we thought that it might be worth going over how we do this on the dyno.

With this engine we weren’t strictly starting from scratch, as we had already tuned it last season. While the capacity and the compression ratio remained the same (more or less), the cam profiles were dramatically different, we had gone from 1000cc HKS injectors up to 1600cc Indy Blue’s, and obviously there was the not-too-subtle turbo upgrade. On top of this we were now expecting to run around 40 psi (2.7 bar) boost.

Electronics:
The ECU chosen for the car last season was the Motec M400 unit. One of the advantages with the Motec product is its versatility. They can be easily upgraded to perform the functions required as they are needed. With DS9, we are using the Advanced Tune upgrade to provide ‘gear-change ignition cut’, Single Lambda to provide a true high speed wideband lambda input to the ECU for both tuning and data logging, and 512kB Data Logging option for analysis on both the dyno and at the track.

In addition to the M400, we are also using a Motec E888 expansion unit. This unit provides additional inputs and outputs for the ECU, including 8 thermocouple amplifiers. We are currently using 4 of these channels to provide exhaust gas temperature data to the ECU. To let Dave know what is going on in the engine bay, we have included a Motec SDL (Sport Dash Logger) to provide all the relevant engine data, and a Motec SLM (Shift Light Module) to indicate when to change gears. All the Motec product communicates to each other using a simple two wire CAN bus which greatly simplifies wiring.

The SDL is primarily used for displaying vital data such as rpm, engine temp, oil pressure and gear position, however it has some very sophisticated warning features as well. A factory oil pressure light will normally come on at 10-15 psi, but if the oil pressure drops this low at 10,000 rpm it is probably too late to save the engine. With the SDL we can program the warning so that at idle the warning triggers at 10 psi, but above 5000 rpm the warning will trigger if oil pressure drops below 60 psi.

Last season the ignition system used inductive coils, although they were an aftermarket 4-coil system. This season with the intention to run much higher cylinder pressures, we made the change to an M&W PRO Drag 4 CDI system matched to a set of SparkTech CDI coils. This system is used by most of the fastest DSM drag cars in the states and is well proven.

The boost control is also provided by the Motec M400. The boost control is pretty critical in an application like this as we are obviously operating pretty close to the edge, and any over-boosting could be disastrous. The M400 uses a sophisticated PID control algorithm to provide ultra stable closed-loop control, but it does require a lot of input from the tuner to get the PID parameters just right. Once setup, we can tune the boost in each gear to tailor the engine’s power to suit the track conditions.

Initial Startup:
Once the engine is ready for initial startup, we will go through all the ECU inputs and outputs and ensure that they are all reading and functioning correctly. In this case the ignition parameters needed to be changed to suit the CDI system, and the injector setup needed to be altered to suit the larger Indy Blue’s. The engine was filled with a mineral-based oil and cranked over to gain oil pressure. During this time the spark plugs are not fitted so there is no compression load on the big-end bearings, and the ECU is disconnected to prevent injection or spark. Once oil pressure has been established the plugs are refitted and the engine can be fired up for the first time. Usually we like to have a timing light fitted so that we can check and set the base ignition timing immediately during this first startup. It is absolutely essential for tuning that the timing that the laptop shows is the same as what the engine is seeing at the crankshaft before tuning commences.

During the intial startup, we only run the engine for around a minute at most. During this time some global changes can be made to the fuelling if necessary to get the engine running cleanly. It is important to look out for any leaks or noises, and also make sure that the engine has good oil pressure. After this initial startup we get the car bolted to the dyno so that we can get load onto the engine straight away. The worst thing that you can do with a fresh motor is allow it to idle for long periods, particularly when it is hot. This places no load on the rings and prevents them from bedding correctly.

In the past, it was not uncommon to run an engine in for several thousand kilometres. With modern ring technology and modern honing techniques, this is no longer necessary. The reality is that around 80% of engine break-in will occur in the first 20 km! Yes, the rings will continue to bed for some time, but the initial running is absolutely critical, and if you get it wrong there is no way to go back (short of re-honing the block and fitting new rings).

The technique we have used on every engine we build is the same and has never failed us. The engine is started up and run at 2500-3000 rpm under light load on the dyno until the engine has come up to a normal operating temperature. With a fresh combination such as DS9, we use this time to make required adjustments to the fuelling to get the mixture where we want it. It is not a great idea to run the engine super-rich during break-in, as the excess fuel can wash oil from the bores. Once operating temp has been reached, we will shut down the engine, and let it cool down. We check for any leaks, and top up all the fluids as required.

Following this we will start placing some load on the engine. We normally start at 3000 rpm and vary between boost and vacuum. Under boost, the cylinder pressure forces the rings to seal against the hone pattern on the cylinder walls, helping them to bed-in. Under vacuum, the oil mist is drawn up the cylinder walls from the crankcase, helping to cool and lubricate the rings. If the engine is simply held under load continuously, the friction between the cylinder walls and the rings would cause excessive heat and this can cause the cylinder walls to glaze resulting in a poor ring seal, hence it is vital to vary the load on the engine.

Once the engine has completed the break-in phase, a leakdown test is performed to confirm the quality of the ring seal. The oil and filter are also changed as the initial break-in flushes out all of the assembly lube used during the engine build, as well as a lot of fine metal particles from the hone pattern. We also flushed the fuel system and filled the tank with fresh Q16 race fuel, ready for the high boost tuning.
 
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'docile said:
Tuning Strategy:
There is a bit of a cloud of mystery surrounding engine tuning. It seems to be considered as some mysterious secret black art, understood by few and mastered by even less. The reality is that tuning an engine involves no magic or witch craft. It requires a solid understanding of engine operation as well as what we are hoping to achieve, but beyond that it requires experience and the right equipment to get the job done.

We approached this project with the aim of making 1000 whp on Q16 race fuel, and we expected to achieve this goal with around 40 psi boost. The principles of tuning don’t change regardless of how much power the engine is making, but it can become a bit stressful as the boost and power levels climb.

The initial tuning is done while running the engine in using the dyno in steady-state mode. Here we will map individual fuel and ignition sites to optimise the tune. We use the dyno to hold the engine rpm constant and start with the minimum load we can use. The load is gradually increased and each site is mapped for fuel and ignition. Once we have reached full throttle, the rpm is increased by 500, and the process is repeated. We use this technique to build up the low boost and vacuum areas of the map, and it produces a very accurate and smooth tune in all areas.

Once we have finished steady-state tuning, we will start full load runs. In this instance the dyno is used to simulate acceleration. The Dynapack is very sensitive, and we can enter a start rpm, finish rpm and how many seconds the run should take. We use data from the track to ensure that the run length is the same as how the engine accelerates on the drag strip, ensuring our tune is as accurate and realistic as possible.

We always start tuning on the lowest boost level we can achieve (wastegate spring pressure), and start with a very conservative timing curve. This timing curve is something that we know from previous experience with similar motors. Initially we start by doing short runs from 3000 rpm out to 5000 rpm, gradually building up the map and getting the fuel curve where we want it. Once the tune is correct, we will add another 500 rpm to the run and repeat the process. In the end we have a run out to whatever rpm we intend using with a suitable mixture. Now we can confirm that the boost curve is doing what we want.

In this case the boost curve was perfectly flat which is exactly what we expected given the way the wastegate was integrated into the collector of the manifold. We ended up with 21 psi (1.4 bar) boost on the wastegate spring pressure, which is low enough to allow the car to launch properly, but will still allow us to achieve 40-50 psi with the boost control. At this point we will start slowly advancing the timing curve and checking how the engine torque responds. What we are aiming to do is find the ignition advance that maximises torque at each point in the rev range. As we start tuning with a very conservative timing map, we normally see quite large gains in torque as we begin adding timing. During this process we use a special knock detection unit that allows us to listen for detonation.

Once we get near the optimum advance angle, the gains in torque start tapering off and we know this is the timing the engine wants to see. This technique is known as MBT tuning and provides the minimum advance required to achieve best torque. If you can understand how this technique works, it should be pretty obvious that there is no way to do this without a proper steady-state loading dyno. Road tuning and inertia dynos simply can’t achieve these results.

While tuning the engine, the data from the ECU is downloaded after each pull. We can then make sure that the exhaust gas temp is even on all cylinders, and confirm that all the other logged data is within safe bounds. Based on the datalogging and the dyno information, changes are then made to the mapping to suit.

Once the baseline has been established on wastegate boost, it is time to start increasing the boost pressure. We proceed by making small changes to the wastegate duty cycle and confirming the tune at each boost increment. The aim is to make small changes in boost and gradually creep up on a complete tune. There is no future in jumping from 20 psi straight to 40 as it doesn’t take very long to damage a motor at this sort of power level. By making small changes we can start filling in the map beyond the area that is currently tuned as we can see a trend for the fuel and ignition maps. This means that when we step up to a higher boost level, the map is probably close to perfect already.

Results:
Ultimately everything went pretty much to plan, with the engine producing 1001 whp at 42 psi boost. We had an annoying gremlin in the form of the ECU shutting down that caused us a bit of grief, but we believe this was the result of electrical noise from the ignition system. Fortunately the issue didn’t rare its head at the track. At some time we will get back on the dyno for some full runs out to 10,000 rpm but for now that can wait.

The engine was always going to be laggy with such a large turbo, and it was a calculated risk. We had estimated that we would see full boost by 8000 rpm, and this proved to almost exactly right. With a rev limit of 11,000 rpm, and clutchless shifting, this provides a useable powerband for drag racing. We can still see upwards of 20 psi on the 2 step launch control, and as we saw at Masterton, the car is still capable of 1.32 60’ times so it all looks pretty promising.

We are looking forward to the next outing when we can start leaning on the engine a little harder to see if we can crack into the 8’s. Ultimately we expect to see mid 8’s at around 170mph. If you see us at the track, make sure you come up and say hi, and feel free to ask any questions you have. As long as we aren’t in the middle of some rushed repair between rounds, we are always happy to have a chat.

ds9tuning.jpg

This is a screenshot of the Motec ECU Manager software that is used for tuning the engine. The layout can be easily altered to show the tuner any specific data they are interested in. Viewing the maps graphically is an easy way to ensure that there are no accidental holes in the map. A correctly tuned engine should always result in a relatively smooth graph.


ds9i2data.jpg

One of the best aspects of the Motec system is its data analysis software i2. The data shown above is from Dave's 9.52 pass at Masterton. The logged data in this instance shows Engine rpm, lambda, boost pressure, oil pressure, engine temp, air temp, sync position, ignition advance, throttle position and gear. For analysing drag runs, we can enter all the run data including 60’, 330’, 660’, 1000’ and 1320’ times and speed. The run data will then be overlaid with these distance points which are shown by the vertical red lines on the screen. It makes analysis of run-to-run variations very easy.


ds9egt.jpg

Here the i2 software is showing us the EGT data from Dave’s 9.52 run at Masterton. We can see that the EGT’s are very closely matched for the entire run length, meaning that all 4 cylinders are running correctly. This data can also be used to detect which cylinder is misfiring as the EGT will go cold.
 
drag isint my cup of tea..... but i can say that till almost 6500rpm i will have him anyday.... dont talk about more than that as my rev limiter is somewhere close to it ;)
 

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